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KIPLING'S 
INDIA 


KIPLING'S  INDIA 


BY 

ARLEY  MUNSON 

Author  of  "  Jungle  Days,  Being  the  Experiences  of  an 
American  Woman  Physician  in  India" 


Illustrated 


QABDEN  CITY  NEW  TOBK 

DOUBLEDAY,  PAGE  &  COMPANY 
1915 


Copyright,  1915,  by 

DOUBLEDAY,  PaGE  &  COMPANY 

All  rights  reserved,  including  that  of 

translation  into  foreign  languages, 

including  the  Scandinavian 


COPYRIGHT,  1914,  BY  DODD,  MEAD  &  COMPANY 


c     w      c     c    I  c 

"111       '  C      I 


1    <    (  I       L 


I    J  ^ 


TO  MY  SISTERS, 
MARY  WOOSTER  SUTTON 

AND 

GERTRUDE  MUNSON  HULST 


CONTENTS 

Introduction ^* 

CHAPTER  "^A^^ 

^           I.     The  Threshold  of  India 5 

<^         II.     Anglo-India H 

V       III.     The  Himalayas 57 

IV.     The  Great  Desert 69 

V.     The  Border  Country 89 

r^^        VI.     The  Oldest  Land 127 

VII.     On  the  Road  to  Mandalay 175 

Index 1^^ 


vu 


456893 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

Looking   toward   Kabul.      "The    mountains     .     .     . 
tall  and  black"  and  "bitter  cold"     .      .      .  Frontispiece 

FACING  PAGE 

Simla  from  the  Kalka  Road .  12 

Cottages  of  Anglo-Indians  at  Simla 18 

The  Heart  of  Rudyard  Kipling's  Anglo-India        .      .  22 

The  Solemn  Deodars 26 

Simla  from  the  Tara  Devi  ........  26 

The  Road  Down  Elysium  Hill 26 

Simla:    Viceregal  Lodge 30 

Simla:    Before  Christ  Church 36 

Jakko  Hill:    "Deodar-Crowned  Jakko"      ....  40 

The  Broad  Road  Around  Jakko 44 

Simla:    the  Lower  Bazaar 48 

"Tibetan  Devil-dance  Masks" 58 

"Oh,  the  Hills  and  the  Snow  upon  the  Hills."     "Kim"  58 

An  Old  Gate  in  the  Walled  City  of  Lahore      ...  58 
"The  Eternal  Snow"  of  the  Himalayas:  Mount  Kin- 

chinjunga 62 

"A  Heaven-climbing  Glacier":    Mount  Kinchinjunga  62 

Chini  in  the  Himalayas 70 

The  Land  of  Namgay  Doola 74 

The  Rajputana  Desert 78 

Elephant  Caparisoned  for  a  State  Pageant      ...  82 

ix 


X  ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING  PAGE 

The  Tower  of  Victory,  Chitor 90 

The  Khyber  Rijfles  on  the  March  through  the  Khyber 

Pass .  94 

Rope  Bridge  over  a  Mountain  Torrent      ....  98 

Afghanistan  from  the  Khyber  Pass 104 

Jumrood  at  Sunset 108 

The  Hindu  Kush  Mountains,  Near  Quetta     .      .      .  114 

The  Indus  River,  Near  Quetta 118 

Lahore:    Kim's  City 128 

"Mother  Gunga":    the  Ganges  River 128 

Snake  Charmers 132 

A  Native  Bazaar  at  Lahore 136 

The  Golden  Temple  at  Amritsar 140 

The  Suttee  Pillar  at  Benares 144 

The  Bridge  of   Boats    over   the    Hooghly   River   at 

Calcutta 152 

Calcutta 158 

A  Temple  of  the  Tirthankers  at  Benares  .      .      .      .  162 

The  Sh we  Dagon  Pagoda 166 

Lucknow,  Great  Imambarah 176 

Burma  Elephant 176 

Benares 180 

"By  the  Old  Moulmein  Pagoda" 180 

"The  Tinkly  Temple  Bells" 180 

The  Irrawaddy  River 184 

Mandalay:    the  "Four  Hundred  and  Fifty  Pagodas"  188 


INTRODUCTION 

THERE  are  probably  many  thousand  readers  of 
Rudyard  Kipling  who  have  at  some  time  or 
other  laid  aside  the  particular  book  that  hap- 
pened to  be  in  hand  at  the  moment  and  asked  mentally, 
"Just  what  sort  of  a  place  is  this  that  Kipling  mentions? 
What  is  its  life,  what  are  its  charms,  and  what  the  reason 
for  its  existence?  "  The  object  of  this  work  is  to  briefly 
describe  these  bits  of  India  which  have  served  as  a  back- 
ground for  Kipling's  songs  and  stories.  From  Bombay, 
the  birthplace  of  Kipling  and  the  threshold  of  India  from 
the  West,  the  scribe  will  attempt  to  carry  the  reader  in 
imagination  first  to  Simla,  far  up  on  the  northeastern 
border  among  the  Himalaya  Mountains  which  separate 
India  from  mysterious  Thibet — the  Anglo-India  of  Rud- 
yard Kipling,  the  India  of  Mrs.  Hauksbee  and  Mrs. 
Reiver,  of  the  Gadsbys  and  of  Wressley  of  the  Foreign 
Office;  in  a  word,  the  India  of  the  scores  of  men  and 
women  who  flit  across  the  scene  in  the  stories  that  make 
up  the  greater  part  of  Plain  Tales  from  the  Hills,  Under 
the  Deodars,  and  The  Story  of  the  Gadsbys;  on  into  the 

[xi] 


INTRODUCTION 

heart  of  the  Himalayas  where  Kim  and  the  lama  and 
Hurree  Babu  *' stalked "  the  Russian  spies;  thence  south- 
west to  the  Great  Rajputana  Desert,  the  country  of  The 
Strange  Ride  of  Morrowbie  Jukes,  and  of  Nick  Tarvin  of 
The  Naulahka;  northward  again  to  the  Border  Country 
on  the  trail  of  Dravot  and  Carnehan  of  The  Man  Who 
Would  Be  King;  and  of  Jakin  and  Lew  of  The  Drums  of 
the  Fore  and  Aft;  from  the  Border  down  through  India 
to  Burma;  and  along  the  haunting  road  to  Mandalay. 
Let  the  reader  suppose,  then,  for  example,  that  he  is  a 
tourist  in  India — like  Pagett,  M.  P.,  of  the  verses, 
though  with  qualifications,  for  "Pagett,  M.  P.,  was  a 
liar,  and  a  fluent  liar  therewith"; — and  that  his  ship  has 
brought  him  into  Bombay  Harbour  to  begin  his  tour 
through  Kipling's  India. 


[rii] 


KIPLING'S 
INDIA 


THE    THRESHOLD 
OF    INDIA 


E 


KIPLING'S  INDIA 
I 

The  Threshold  of  India 

VEN  before  the  traveller  reaches  the  Harbour  of 
Bombay,  he  hears  the  echoes  of  Kipling's  words : 

The  Injian  Ocean  sets  and  smiles 
So  sof,  so  bright,  so  bloomin'  blue, — 
There  aren't  a  wave  for  miles  and  miles 
Excep'  the  jiggle  from  the  screw; 

and  there  steals  over  him  the  spirit  of  languor  and  mys- 
tery which  belongs  to  this  land  of  dreams  and  world-old 
romance. 

Bombay,  the  metropolis  of  India,  is  dubbed  by  Kip- 
ling the  queen  of  cities,  and  she  well  deserves  the  title, 
for  she  far  surpasses  all  other  cities  of  Asia  in  beauty  and 
riches.  In  the  "Song  of  the  Cities,"  Bombay  accu- 
rately describes  herself  in  her  address  to  England: 

Royal  and  Dower-royal,  I,  the  Queen, 
Fronting  thy  richest  sea  with  richer  hands — 
A  thousand  mills  roar  through  me  where  I  glean 
All  races  from  all  lands. 

[5] 


KIPLING  S  INDIA 

The  first  sight  of  the  great  modern  city  of  a  miUion 
inhabitants  is  enchanting,  as  it  juts  out  into  the  sea  over 
eleven  miles  of  ground.  On  the  blue  surface  of  the  har- 
bour float  the  ships  of  every  nation.  A  few  miles  back 
from  the  shore  rise  the  green  slopes  of  Malabar  Hill,  and 
still  farther  back  and  misty  blue  in  the  distance  tower 
the  magnificent  Western  Ghauts.  Most  of  the  streets 
are  wide  and  well  kept;  the  city  is  rich  in  modern  im- 
provements, such  as  gas  and  plumbing  and  well- 
equipped  tramcars;  and  it  boasts  of  some  of  the  most 
beautiful  and  best-constructed  public  buildings  in  the 
British  Empire,  among  which  the  Victoria  railway 
station,  of  late  Gothic  architecture,  stands  supreme. 
Still  one  is  never  deceived  into  thinking  Bombay  a  city 
of  the  Occident.  Brightly  painted  carts  drawn  by 
gentle,  hump-shouldered  bullocks  are  on  every  hand; 
the  prevailing  gayety  of  colour  in  the  dress  of  the  people 
is  almost  dazzling;  and  the  native  pedestrian  is  far  more 
likely  to  be  in  the  middle  of  the  street  than  on  the  side- 
walk especially  provided  for  him. 

Bombay  owes  most  of  its  wealth  and  greatness  to  the 
Parsis,  descendants  of  the  Persians  who  for  the  sake  of 
their  religious  liberty  fled  to  the  Malabar  coast  of  India 
at  the  time  of  the  Mahomedan  conquest  of  Persia 
some  eight  centuries  ago;  and  who,  though  less  than  one 
hundred  thousand  in  number,  practically  control  the 
philanthropic,  educational,  and  industrial  affairs  of  the 
city.     The  Parsi  Cemetery  on  Malabar  Hill  is  one  of  the 

[6] 


THE   THRESHOLD   OF  INDIA 

chief  places  of  interest  to  the  tourist.  There  among 
beautiful  groves  stand  the  *' Towers  of  Silence,"  great 
white,  cylindrical  structures,  open  at  the  top,  where  the 
Parsis  deposit  their  dead  to  be  devoured  by  the  vultures 
which  are  always  hovering  near;  this  is  in  accordance 
with  the  command  of  their  prophet  Zoroaster  that  the 
dead  must  not  be  allowed  to  defile  the  sacred  elements, 
earth,  fire,  and  water. 

An  interesting  excursion  is  the  boat  trip  out  to  the 
Island  of  Elephanta,  about  seven  miles  distant  from 
Bombay  and  containing  Hindu  temples  excavated  from 
the  solid  rock.  These  cave  temples  take  high  rank 
among  the  rock  sculptures  of  the  world,  and  are  filled 
with  columns  and  giant  figures  of  gods  wonderfully 
wrought  and  carefully  distributed. 

It  was  at  the  Apollo  Bunder,  a  landing-place  for  boats 
in  Bombay,  that  five-year-old  "Punch-Baba"  ("Baa, 
Baa,  Black  Sheep"),  bade  good-bye  for  long,  long  years 
to  his  life  of  perfect  love  with  Mamma  and  Papa  and 
the  adoring  Indian  servants,  to  become  in  England  a 
helpless  victim  of  that  tragedy  of  Anglo-Indian  life,  the 
necessary  separation  of  children  from  their  parents. 

From  Bombay,  Captain  Corbyn  of  the  141st  Punjab 
Cavalry,  "young  .  .  .  rich,  open-handed,  just,  a 
friend  of  poor  troopers,  keen-eyed,  jestful,  and  careless," 
with  his  loving  and  devoted  friend,  Umr  Singh,  a  Sikh 
of  highest  military  rank,  embarked  for  Africa  and  "A 
Sahibs'  War"  {Traffics  and  Discoveries)  only  to  meet 

[7] 


KIPLING  S    INDIA 

death  at  the  hands  of  cowardly  assassins — the  "Sahibs" 
who  were  not  "Sahibs,"  whose  treachery  was  so  swiftly 
and  terribly  punished  by  Corbyn's  friends  and  comrades, 
the  "Durro  Muts.' 


>> 


II 

ANGLO-INDIA 


II 

Anglo-India 

4  S  the  traveller  leaves  Bombay  for  the  interior  in 
L^L  search  of  Kipling  haunts,  he  naturally  goes  first 
-*-  "^to  Simla,  for  "at  Simla,"  writes  Kipling,  "all 
things  begin  and  many  come  to  an  evil  end."  And 
before  Simla  comes  the  way  to  Simla.  The  best  way 
to  proceed  from  Bombay  is  by  the  Punjab  Express, 
and  the  best  time  is  April,  the  beginning  of  India's 
hot  weather  when  all  Anglo-India  migrates  to  the  Hills. 
This  is  not  the  weather  for  travel  on  the  Plains;  the 
breezes  stirred  up  by  the  rush  of  the  train  seem  to  come 
from  the  depths  of  a  furnace  seven  times  heated.  But 
the  Indian  railway  coach  is  arranged  to  give  all  the  com- 
fort possible  to  the  hot-weather  traveller.  The  tiny 
dressing-room  at  the  end  of  the  compartment  provides  a 
cool  comforting  wash  whenever  desired,  and  the  double 
roof  of  the  coach  has  a  projection  on  both  sides  which 
acts  as  a  slight  shield  from  the  sun.  Heavy  shutters 
and  stained  glass  in  all  the  windows  modify  the  glare, 
while  in  one  of  the  windows  is  placed  a  disk-shaped  cur- 

[11] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

tain  of  scented  grass  which  can  be  revolved  by  means  of 
a  small  handle  and  which  at  each  revolution  dips  into  a 
concealed  basin  of  water.  The  air,  cooled  by  its  passage 
through  the  wet  curtain,  delightfully  refreshes  the  in- 
terior of  the  coach.  Then,  too,  one  is  almost  sure  to 
have  his  coach  to  himself,  so  he  may  lounge  as  lazily 
as  he  pleases  on  the  long,  leather-cushioned  seats,  which, 
with  the  addition  of  pillow  and  rug,  make  excellent  beds 
at  night.  At  almost  any  station,  he  can  obtain  deli- 
cious tea  and  toast,  or,  by  telegraphing  ahead,  a  very 
good  and  substantial  meal. 

Scarcely  thirty-three  hours  after  leaving  Bombay  the 
traveller  comes  to  Umballa,  and  changes  there  for  the 
branch  line  to  Kalka,  for  Kalka  leads  to  Simla,  the  be- 
loved, the  summer  capital  of  India,  and  the  most  fash- 
ionable summer  resort  in  the  country. 

From  Kalka,  the  little  train  creeps  slowly  upward, 
curving  round  and  round  the  mountain  for  fifty-five 
miles.  Below  and  almost  constantly  in  sight  lies  the 
tonga  road  glistening  white  in  the  sunshine.  Groups  of 
men  and  drove  after  drove  of  camels  climb  slowly  up 
the  steep  path,  while  tongas  dash  past  them  at  a  furious 
pace.  Great  cactus  trees  appear  everywhere;  then  at 
last  the  pines  show  dark  and  rich  and  green,  speaking  of 
the  higher  hills;  and  seven  hours  from  the  time  of  start- 
ing, the  train  arrives  at  Simla  pahar,  seven  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea. 

Only  the  Viceroy  and  a  few  other  privileged  ones  may 

[12] 


Cijpyrii,'lit  by  Underwood  &:  Uudefwood,  N.  ^  . 


SIMLA  FROM  THE  KALKA  ROAD 


Of  this  city  of  the  hills  the  Kipling  of  other  days 
said,  in  the  beginning  of  "'The  Education  of  Otis 
Yeere,"  a  tale  involving  Mrs.  Hauksbee  and  her 
complex  philosopliy:  "Here  begins  the  story  where 
every  right-minded  story  should  Ijcgin,  that  is  to 
say,  at  Simla,  where  all  tilings  begin  and  many  come 
to  an  evil  end." 


ANGLO-INDIA 

drive  in  carriages  at  Simla,  but  there  is  no  lack  of  con- 
veyances. At  the  Simla  station,  a  dozen  'rickshaw 
jhampanis,   a   merry,   bantering   group   of   men,   rush 

toward  the  train,  each  jhampani  loud  in  praise  of  his 
own  'rickshaw  and  equally  loud  in  denunciation  of  the 
'rickshaws  of  his  rivals.  A  ride  in  a  Simla  'rickshaw  is 
a  thrilling  experience.  With  tv/o  of  the  strong,  bare- 
legged jhampanis  pushing  and  two  pulling  the  over- 
grown "perambulator,"  it  fairly  spins  along  the  smooth, 
narrow  path.  The  jhampanis,  delighted  into  greater 
recklessness  by  the  passenger's  gasps  of  fear  and  sur- 
prise, whirl  him  at  breakneck  speed  around  some  sharp 
corner  or  down  a  steep  path,  until  with  an  extra  flourish 
they  stop  at  his  destination. 

Peliti's  Hotel  is  a  charming  place,  and  the  traveller 
will  do  well  to  put  up  there  during  his  stay  at  Simla. 
In  general,  he  will  find  it  much  like  other  first-class 
Indian  hotels.  In  the  large  bedrooms,  the  open  fire- 
places and  the  absence  of  mosquito  curtains  show  him 
that  he  is  in  the  Hills.  The  comfortable  sitting-room 
invites  him  to  read  and  dream  in  the  great  chairs,  and 
the  well-ordered  cafe  is  of  never-failing  interest,  for  here 
in  the  groups  of  laughing,  faultlessly  dressed  English 
men  and  women  he  finds  the  true  Anglo-Indian. 
Among  them  the  barefooted  Indian  waiters,  in  white 
trousers,  long  coats,  and  turbans,  with  wide  sashes  of 
bright-coloured  silk,  flit  noiselessly  to  and  fro  with  a 
machine-like  devotion  to  their  duties. 

[15] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

The  air  is  fresh  and  bracing  with  just  the  touch  of 
chill  that  makes  one  glad  of  the  warmth  of  a  light 
jacket;  and  the  wild  roses  and  honeysuckle,  the  soft, 
green  grass,  and  the  fruit  trees  of  a  temperate  climate 
abound  on  every  hand.  But  one  cannot  forget  that  he 
is  in  the  Tropics,  for  while  walking  along  the  quiet 
paths,  it  is  no  unusual  thing  to  hear  a  crash  of  branches 
overhead  as  a  huge  gray  ape  drops  from  the  trees  to  the 
ground  and  scampers  away  on  all  fours.  And  the  birds, 
too,  are  of  the  southland — parrots,  cockatoos,  and  other 
harsh-voiced  birds  of  brilliant  plumage,  and  the  sweet- 
voiced  little  koil,  charming  the  ear  with  its  song. 

The  pleasant  cottages  of  the  Anglo-Indians,  the  shops, 
many  of  which  would  do  credit  to  London's  greatest 
shopping  district,  the  public  buildings,  and  the  hotels 
are  placed  on  terraces,  one  above  the  other,  all  down  the 
steep  mountainside.  Many  of  these  buildings  over- 
look the  Mall,  which  is  like  a  great  treeless  boulevard 
and  is  the  social  and  business  centre  of  Anglo-Indian 
Simla.  It  slopes  up  through  the  Bazaar  to  the  Town 
Hall  and  Jakko  Hill,  a  thickly  wooded  height  rising  a 
thousand  feet  above  the  town.  From  the  broad  road, 
five  miles  long,  which  winds  round  the  base  of  Jakko, 
the  Himalayan-Thibet  Road  leads  off  to  the  higher 
Himalayas.  The  great  peaks,  dark  with  pines  and  deo- 
dars (the  Himalayan  cypress),  sweep  off  into  space, 
range  on  range,  until  limited  at  last  by  the  snowy  moun- 
tains towering  twenty-two  thousand  feet  above  the  sea. 

[16] 


ANGLO-INDIA 

To  the  north  of  the  town  stands  Elysium  Hill,  and  six 
miles  west  of  Jakko  are  Prospect,  Observatory,  and 
Summer  hills.  On  Observatory  Hill,  and  occupying 
the  finest  viewpoint  in  Simla,  is  Viceregal  Lodge,  the 
stately  summer  home  of  the  Viceroy,  set  well  back  in 
beautiful  grounds.  The  various  Vicereines  have  tried 
to  make  their  Simla  home  as  English  as  possible,  and  it 
might  be  England  but  for  the  presence  of  the  grinning 
little  Ghurkas,  the  Viceroy's  Guard  of  Honour.  Still 
farther  west,  and  somewhat  apart,  stands  Jutogh  Hill, 
occupied  by  a  battery  of  artillery.  Between  Elysium 
and  Summer  hills  is  a  lovely  little  valley,  Annandale, 
where  the  beautiful  Annandale  roses  grow  and  where 
the  Simla  sports  are  held. 

English  men  and  women  are  everywhere,  cantering 
through  the  Mall  or  under  Jakko  on  horseback,  or  mer- 
rily greeting  one  another  from  their  'rickshaws.  Occa- 
sionally one  sees  Indians  of  high  rank,  and  always  the 
Indian  working  people.  Conspicuous  among  them  are 
the  Government  chaprassis,  with  long  scarlet  coats  and 
wide  scarlet  and  yellow  belts,  the  special  chaprassi  of 
the  Viceroy  being  distinguished  from  the  rest  by  the 
Viceroy's  coronet  and  monogram  embroidered  on  the 
breast  of  his  coat. 

Simla  was  the  scene  of  Captain  Gadsby's  courtship  of 
Minnie  Threegan  when  he  transferred  his  attentions 
from  "Poor,  Dear  Mamma"  {The  Story  of  the  Gadshys)  to 
her  daughter.     A  few  weeks  later  came  the  engagement 

[17] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

which  SO  completely  surprised  Captain  Gadsby 's  friends, 
who  thoroughly  discussed  the  case  ("The  World  With- 
out") and  could  scarcely  believe  that  "old  Gaddy" 
had  been  "hooked"  at  last. 

The  "Venus  Annodomini"  (Plain  Tales  from  the 
Hills)  was  an  "Anglo-Indian  deity"  who,  for  a  genera- 
tion, had  been  worshipped  by  all  the  masculine  world 
at  Simla: 

There  was  a  legend  among  the  HiUs  that  she  had  once  been  young; 
but  no  living  man  was  prepared  to  come  forward  and  say  boldly  that 
the  legend  was  true.  Men  rode  up  to  Simla,  and  stayed,  and  went 
away  and  made  their  name  and  did  their  hfe's  work,  and  returned 
again  to  find  the  Venus  Annodomini  exactly  as  they  had  left  her. 

When  "Very  Young"  Gayerson  joined  the  others  in  the 
worship  of  the  Venus  Annodomini,  he 

was  not  content  to  worship  placidly  and  for  form's  sake,  .  .  , 
He  was  exacting,  and,  therefore,  the  Venus  Annodomini  repressed 
him, 

and  shocked  his  spirit  by  telling  him  that  she  had  a 
daughter  nineteen  years  old.  His  spirit  suffered  a  still 
greater  shock  when  he  learned  that  she  had  been  a 
sweetheart  of  his  father's  "ever  so  long  ago."  So 
"Very  Young"  Gayerson  rode  down  from  Simla  and 
"Young"  Gayerson,  his  father,  remained  and  took  his 
place  at  the  side  of  the  Venus  Annodomini. 

Ahasuerus  Jenkins  of  the  "Operatic  Own"  ("Army 

[18] 


Copyri^lU  by  Underwood  &  Underwood,  N.  Y . 

SIMLA  — THE  HILLSIDE 


Hero  are  the  cottages  of  the  Aiiglolndians  who  are  able  to  get 
away  from  the  heat  and  dvist  storms  of  the  Indian  desert.  Here 
was  the  house  of  Mrs.  Hauksbee,  the  "stormy  petrel,"  which  she 
shared  for  a  time  with  Mrs.  Mallowe.  Here,  on  three  fourths 
Jack  Barretts  monthly  screw,  remained  Mrs.  Barrett,  to  console 
the  other  man,  and  to  mourn  "five  lively  Tnonths  at  most,"  her 
husband's  sub.sec}uent  death  at  Quetta.  Here,  too,  in  the  pre- 
historic days,  was  the  little  house  of  Delilah  Aberyswith,  "a  lady 
— not  t(X)  young — with  a  perfect  taste  in  dresses,  and  a  badly 
bitted  tongue."  Above  and  beyond  are  the  "wooded  heights  of 
Simla"  of  The  Masque  of  Plenty 


^f  ANGLO-INDIA 

^.ead-Quaiters"),  in  spite  of  his  shortcomings  in  horse- 

- lip  and  in  matters  miHtary,  "had  a  head  upon  his 

shoulders." 


He  took  two  months  at  Simla  when  the  year  was  at  the  spring, 
And  underneath  the  deodars  eternally  did  sing. 
He  warbled  Hke  a  bul-bul,  but  particularly  at 
CorneUa  Agrippina,  who  was  musical  and  fat. 

Cornelia  "controlled  a  humble  husband,  who,  in  turn, 
controlled  a  Dept."  so  when  the  musical  accomplish- 
ments of  Ahasuerus  had  won  Cornelia's  favour,  his  suc- 
cess in  the  Government  service  was  assured. 

Now,  ever  after  dinner,  when  the  coffee-cups  are  brought, 
Ahasuerus  waileth  o'er  the  grand  pianoforte; 
And,  thanks  to  fair  CorneHa,  his  fame  hath  waxen  great, 
And  Ahasuerus  Jenkins  is  a  power  in  the  State! 

In  strolling  through  the  town  on  the  trail  of  the  Kip- 
ling characters,  you  begin  at  the  Kalka  tonga  road  by 
which  Mahbub  Ali  and  Kim  (Kim)  went  up  to  Simla, 

the  wandering  road,  climbing,  dipping,  and  sweeping  about  the 
growing  spurs;  the  flush  of  the  morning  laid  along  the  distant 
snows;  the  branched  cacti;  tier  upon  tier  the  stony  hillsides;  the 
voices  of  a  thousand  water-channels;  the  chatter  of  the  monkeys; 
the  solemn  deodars,  climbing  one  after  another  with  down-drooped 
branches;  the  vista  of  the  plains  rolled  out  far  beneath  them;  the 
incessant  twanging  of  the  tonga-horns  and  the  wild  rush  of  the  led 
horses  when  a  tonga  swimg  round  a  curve;    .     .     . 

[21] 


Kipling's  india 
This  tonga  road  was  the  scene  of  "As  the  Bell  Clinks" 
in  which  a  lover  tells  of  his  thoughts  and  emotio  \ 

of  how  the  tonga  coupling  bar  gave  him  sage  advice  in 
regard  to  his  courtship: 

It   was   under   Khyraghaut    I    mused: — Suppose    the    maid    be 

haughty — 
[There  are  lovers  rich — and  forty]  wait  some  wealthy  Avatar? 
"Answer,  monitor  untiring,  'twixt  the  ponies  twain   perspiring!" 
"Faint  heart  never  won  fair  lady"  creaked  the  straining  tonga-bar. 
"Can  I  tell  you  ere  you  ask  Her?"  pounded  slow  the  tonga-bar. 

Last,  the  Tara  Devi  turning  showed  the  Ughts  of  Simla  burning, 
Lit  my  Httle  lazy  yearning  to  a  fiercer  flame  by  far. 
As  below  the  Mall  we  jingled,  through  my  very  heart  it  tingled — 
The  reiterated  order  of  the  threshing  tonga-bar; — 
"Try  your  luck — you  canH  do  better  I"  twanged  the  loosened  tonga- 
bar. 

In  "An  Old  Song,"  another  lover  brings  his  tonga 
road  into  his  verse: 

So  long  as  'neath  the  Kalka  hills 

The  tonga-horn  shall  ring. 
So  long  as  down  the  Solon  dip 

The  hard-held  ponies  swing; 
So  long  as  Tara  Devi  sees 

The  lights  o'  Simla  town. 
So  long  as  Pleasure  calls  us  up, 
And  duty  drives  us  down. 
If  you  love  me  as  I  love  you 
What  pair  so  happy  as  we  two? 
[22] 


Ci'i'Mi^ht  by  Umlerwornl  &•  Underwood,  X.  Y. 


THE  HEART  OF  RUDYARD   KIPLING 
ANGLO-INDIA 


S 


The  Mall  at  Simla,  with  the  Town  Hall  in  the  background  and  Jakko  Hill 
beyond.  The  Thackerayan  in  Pall  ^lall  or  Russell  Square  conjures  up  the 
ghosts  of  the  Pendennises  and  the  Osbornes;  the  Dickcnsian  in  the  Borough 
High  Street  searches  for  such  stones  of  the  old  Marshalsea  prison  as  exist  to 
recall  the  figures  of  Little  Dorrit  and  Arthur  Clenham;  the  Balzacian  on  the 
Boulevards  sees  in  imagination  countless  characters  from  the  Comcdie  Hu- 
maine.  But  for  the  reader  of  the  early  Kipling  the  Simla  Mall  suggests  not  two, 
or  ten,  but  a  hundred  men  and  women.  Captain  Gadsby  and  Minnie  Threegan, 
and  their  t)est  man.  Jack  Mafflin,  Mrs.  Hauksl)ce,  and  the  triple  intuition  of  the 
woman,  her  deadly  rival  Mrs.  Reiver,  Moriarty,  Strickland  of  the  police  and 
Miss  Youghal,  Jack  Pansay,  Kitty  Mannering  and  Mrs.  Wessington  of  The 
Phantom  'Rickshaw,  Pluffles  the  Subaltern,  Barrsaggott,  Miss  Beighton,  and 
young  Cubbon,  Tarrion,  Peythroppe,  the  Cusack-Bremmils,  and  others  too 
numerous  for  mention 


ANGLO-INDIA 

Under  the  Tonga-Office  lamps,  at  the  end  of  the  tonga 
road,  Mrs.  Schreiderhng  met  the  newly  arrived  tonga 
of  "  The  Other  Man  "  {Plain  Tales  from  the  Hills,)  who  sat 

in  the  back  seat,  very  square  and  firm,  with  one  hand  on  the  awning- 
stanchion  and  the  wet  pouring  off  his  hat  and  moustache,  .  .  . 
— dead. 

Not  far  from  the  Tonga  Office  is  the  Public  Works 
Office  toward  which  Hannasyde  was  climbing  when  he 
met  for  the  first  time  Mrs.  Landys-Haggert  (*'0n  the 
Strength  of  a  Likeness").     Hannasyde  kept  an 


"unrequited  attachment  by  him  as  men  keep  a  well-smoked  pipe 
— for  comfort's  sake,  and  because  it  had  grown  dear  in  the  using  "; 


and  Mrs.  Landys-Haggert  was  "the  living,  breathing 
image"  of  Alice  Chisane,  "the  girl  who  had  made  him 
so  happily  unhappy."  So  Hannasyde  made  love 
"through  instead  of  to"  Mrs.  Haggert  until  he  learned 
too  late  that  she  "  was  not  in  the  least  like  Alice  Chisane, 
being  a  thousand  times  more  adorable." 

Just  beyond  the  Public  Works  Office  is  the  Post  Office 
where  the  "Tertiam  Quid"  ("At  the  Pit's  Mouth")  and 
the  "Man's  Wife,"  "kittenish  in  her  manners,  wearing 
generally  an  air  of  soft  and  fluffy  innocence,"  but "  dead- 
lily  learned  and  evil-instructed,"  used  to  mail  to  the  Man, 

[25] 


Kipling's  india 


"then  stewing  in  the  Plains  on  two  hundred  rupees  a  month  (for 
he  allowed  his  wife  eight  hundred  and  fifty),  and  in  a  silk  banian 
and  cotton  trousers," 

a  letter  which  said 

"that  she  was  longing  for  him  to  come  up  to  Simla.  The  Tertiam 
Quid  used  to  lean  over  her  shoulder  and  laugh  as  she  wrote  the 
notes." 

Then  off  to  Annandale,  always  the  sporting  ground  of 
Simla.  In  the  old  days  when  archery  used  to  be  the 
favourite  pastime  there,  Kitty  Beighton  of  "Cupid's 
Arrows"  {Plain  Tales  from  the  Hills)  shot  her  way  out 
of  her  unsatisfactory  connection  with  Barr-Saggott  and 
into  the  happiness  of  true  love. 

You  must  surely  visit  Viceregal  Lodge,  the  scene  of 
numerous  Kipling  tales.  It  was  here  that  Mellish,  the 
inventor,  was  admitted  to  the  honour  of  tiffin  with  the 
Viceroy,  through  the  mistake  of  Wonder,  the  Private 
Secretary,  who  had  intended  to  invite  the  great  "Mel- 
lishe "  of  Madras;  and  here  the  inventor  explained  to  the 
curious  and  half -amused  Viceroy  the  wonders  of  "A 
Germ  Destroyer"  {Plain  Tales  from  the  Hills),  which  so 
effectually  broke  up  the  entire  Viceregal  household,  and 
ended,  to  the  intense  delight  and  satisfaction  of  the 
Viceroy,  in  the  departure  to  England  of  Wonder,  the 
masterly"  private  secretary,  concerning  whom  "all 

[26] 


<( 


Copyright  by  Underwood  &  Underwood,  N.  Y. 

The  solemn  deodars,  climbing  one  after  another  with  down-drooped  branches" — Kim 


SIMLA   FROM   THE 
TAR  A  DEVI 


THE  ROAD   DOWN 
ELYSIUM   HILL 


It  was  here  that,  in  The  Phantom  'Rickshaw,  Dr.  Heather- 
lejjh  decided  that  Jack  Pansay  was  either  mad  or  drunk.  For 
five  minutes  Pansay.  on  horseback,  had  been  talking  the  com- 
monplaces of  the  day  to  the  thing  that  was  quite  invisible  to 
other  eves 


ANGLO-INDIA 

Simla  agreed  that  there  was  '  too  much  Wonder,  and  too 
little  Viceroy'  in  that  rule." 

At  Viceregal  Lodge,  Miss  Haverley  in  *'Only  a  Subal- 
tern" {Under  the  Deodars),  gave  her  heart  to  Bobby 
Wick,  the  young  Subaltern  who  so  thoroughly  won  the 
love  and  admiration  of  his  men  that  when  he  drifted 
away  "on  the  easy  tide  of  Death,"  Private  Dormer  ex- 
pressed the  sentiments  of  everybody  who  had  known 
Bobby  Wick,  in  the  emphatic  words, 

' Bloomin'orf'cer?     .     .     .    Hangel!   5Zoomm' hangel!  That's 


wot  'e  is ! ' 

The  Supreme  Legislative  Council  of  India  were  sitting 
in  state  at  Viceregal  Lodge  when  little  Tods  of  "Tods' 
Amendment"  {Plain  Tales  from  the  Hills)  broke  in  upon 
their  solemn  deliberations  with  his  wild  appeals  for  them 
to  help  him  control  his  goat  Moti  who  was  dragging 
Tods,  much  against  his  will,  over  the  lawn  and  across 
the  flower  beds.  Tods  was  the  small  English  boy  who, 
by  his  familiar  friendship  with  jhampanis,  shopkeepers, 
hill-coolies,  and  money-lenders,  was  able  to  give  valua- 
ble counsel  to  the  Supreme  Legislature  of  India,  in 
regard  to  "The  Sub-Montane  Tracts  Ryotwary  Revised 
Enactment."  From  which  counsel  came  the  amend- 
ment and  the  consequent  immense  popularity  of  Tods 
among  his  native  friends. 

At  a  dance  at  Viceregal  Lodge,  you  meet  Mrs.  Hauks- 
bee,  the  "Stormy  Petrel," 

[29] 


Kipling's  india 


a  little,  brown,  thin,  almost  skinny,  woman,  with  big,  rollings 
violet-blue  eyes,  and  the  sweetest  manners  in  the  world,  .  .  . 
clever,  witty,  brUhant,  and  sparkling  beyond  most  of  her  kind;  but 
possessed  of  many  devils  of  malice  and  mischievousness. 

She  attended  this  special  dance  as  the  result  of  the 
clever  forgery  of  her  friend  Tarrion  of  "Consequences'* 
(Plain  Tales  from  the  Hills),  for  whom  she  won  favour 
and  fortune  by  her  miraculous  knowledge  of  the  affairs 
of  the  mighty  East  Indian  Government.  "Three 
and — ^An  Extra"  (Plain  Tales  from  the  Hills)  tells  of 
another  dance  which  Mrs.  Hauksbee  attended  at 
Viceregal  Lodge  when  she  struggled  with  Bremmil's 
wife  for  Bremmil's  attention  and  was  ignominiously 
defeated. 

Before  you  return  to  the  centre  of  town,  you  should 
go  out  to  Summer  Hill,  for  in  the  shade  of  Summer  Hill 
"went  a-walking"  Delilah  Aberyswith — 


a  lady — not  too  young — 

With  a  perfect  taste  in  dresses  and  a  badly  bitted  tongue, 

and  Ulysses  Gunne,  a  man 

Whose  mode  of  earning  money  was  a  low  and  shameful  one. 
He  wrote  for  divers  papers,  which,  as  everybody  knows. 
Is  worse  than  serving  in  a  shop  or  scaring  off  the  crows. 

There  Ulysses,  patiently  seeking  the  truth,  "pleaded 
softly"  with  Delilah  to  reveal  a  Viceroy's  important 
secret  of  which  she  had  knowledge,  for 

[30] 


ANGLO-INDIA 

.     .     .     perhaps  the  wine  was  red — 
Perhaps  an  Aged  Councillor  had  lost  his  aged  head — 
Perhaps  DeHlah's  eyes  were  bright — DeUlah's  whispers  sweet — 
The  Aged  Member  told  her  what  'twere  treason  to  repeat. 

So  when 

The  wasteful  sunset  faded  out  in  turkis-green  and  gold, 
.     .     .     that  bad  Delilah  told! 

Next  morn,  a  startled  Empire  learnt  the  all-important  News; 
Next  week,  the  Aged  Councillor  was  shaking  in  his  shoes; 
Next  month,  I  met  DeHlah,  and  she  did  not  show  the  least 
Hesitation  in  asserting  that  Ulysses  was  a  "beast." 

Retracing  your  steps  you  come  again  into  the  Bazaar 
and  turn  off  to  Elysium  Hill.  On  the  road  leading  to 
Elysium  Hill,  Heatherlegh,  "Simla's  best  and  kindest 
doctor,"  first  met  Jack  Pansay,  who  was  talking  to  the 
invisible  occupant  of  "The  Phantom  'Rickshaw"  and 
down  below  the  Ridge  on  which  the  English  Church 
stands,  on  the  Blessington  Lower  Road,  Agnes  saved 
the  lives  of  Pansay  and  the  Doctor. 

Back  to  the  Bazaar  and  down  a  slope  to  the  Comber- 
mere  Bridge,  near  the  left  railing  of  which  Jack  Pansay, 
staring  with  drawn  white  face  and  horror-filled  eyes, 
saw  for  the  first  time  the  phantom  'rickshaw, 

four  jhampanies  in  *  mag-pie'  livery,  pulling  a  yellow-panelled, 
cheap,  bazar  'rickshaw, 

[33] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

in  which  sat  Agnes  Keith-Wessington,  her  handkerchief 
in  hand,  her  golden  head  bowed  on  her  breast,  and  her 
tremulous  voice  pleading, 

"Jack!  Jack,  darling!  It's  some  hideous  mistake,  I'm  sm'C. 
Please  forgive  me,  Jack,  and  let's  be  friends  again. " 

Peliti's  Hotel  is  here  and  it  was  into  Peliti's  cafe  that 
Pansay  rushed,  half  fainting,  to  get  the  cherry  brandy 
which  should  dispel  the  terrible  illusion.  It  will  be  re- 
membered that  Mrs.  Hauksbee  and  Mr.  Bremmil  of 
"Three — and  An  Extra"  tiffened  at  Peliti's  under  the 
shocked  gaze  of  the  Simla  public,  while  Mrs.  Bremmil 
stayed  at  home  turning  over  her  dead  baby's  frocks  and 
crying  into  the  empty  cradle.  Peliti's  Hotel  at  Simla  is 
the  place  to  which  reference  is  made  by  the  "artless 
Bandar''  ("Divided  Destinies"),  the  monkey  that  en- 
tered into  a  mortal's  dream  and,  on  various  grounds, 
roused  the  mortal's  envy: 

" .     .     .     and  no,  never  in  my  life 
Have  I  flirted  at  Peliti's  with  another  Bandar's  wife." 

Just  above  Peliti's  is  Hamilton's  shop  where  Jack  Pan- 
say  bought  the  engagement  ring  for  Kitty  Mannering, 
and  concerning  which  the  Bandar  protests  to  the  mortal, 

"Nor  do  I  waste  at  Hamilton's  my  wealth  on  pretty  things." 

[34] 


ANGLO-INDIA 

Now,  we  are  on  the  Mall  where  Pansay  used  to  walk 
beside  the  phantom  'rickshaw,  deep  in  conversation 
with  his 

ghostly  Light-o'-Love  ...  to  the  unspeakable  amazement  of 
the  passers-by. 

Mrs.  Schreiderling,  mourning  vainly  for  her  dead 
love,  "The  Other  Man," 

used  to  trot  up  and  down  the  Mall,  on  that  shocking  bad  saddle, 
looking  as  if  she  expected  to  meet  some  one  round  the  corner  every 
minute. 

On  the  Mall,  "Wressley  of  the  Foreign  Office" 
(Plain  Tales  from  the  Hills)  "the  known,  honoured,  and 
trusted  man  among  men,"  lost  his  heart  to  Tillie  Venner, 

a  frivolous,  golden-haired  girl  who  used  to  tear  about  Simla  Mall 
on  a  high,  rough  Waler,  with  a  blue-velvet  jockey-cap  crammed 
over  her  eyes, — 

the  girl  with  a  pretty  lisp,  the  girl  who  did  not  under- 
stand. 

The  miraculous  shop  of  Lurgan  Sahib,  Kim's  myste- 
rious friend,  is  on  the  Mall,  with  its  collection  of  devil- 
dance  masks — "horned  masks,  scowling  masks,  and 
masks  of  idiotic  terror" — and  "fiend-embroidered  dra- 
peries of  those  ghastly  functions";  quaint  ornaments; 
Oriental  weapons  of  war;  and  wonderful  jewels. 

[351 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

in  which  sat  Agnes  Keith- Wessington,  her  handkerchief 
in  hand,  her  golden  head  bowed  on  her  breast,  and  her 
tremulous  voice  pleading, 

"Jack!  Jack,  darling!  It's  some  hideous  mistake,  I'm  sm'e. 
Please  forgive  me.  Jack,  and  let's  be  friends  again. " 

Peliti's  Hotel  is  here  and  it  was  into  Peliti's  cafe  that 
Pansay  rushed,  half  fainting,  to  get  the  cherry  brandy 
which  should  dispel  the  terrible  illusion.  It  will  be  re- 
membered that  Mrs.  Hauksbee  and  Mr.  Bremmil  of 
*' Three — and  An  Extra"  tiffened  at  Peliti's  under  the 
shocked  gaze  of  the  Simla  public,  while  Mrs.  Bremmil 
stayed  at  home  turning  over  her  dead  baby's  frocks  and 
crying  into  the  empty  cradle.  Peliti's  Hotel  at  Simla  is 
the  place  to  which  reference  is  made  by  the  "artless 
Bandar"  ("Divided  Destinies"),  the  monkey  that  en- 
tered into  a  mortal's  dream  and,  on  various  grounds, 
roused  the  mortal's  envy: 

" .     .     .     and  no,  never  in  my  life 
Have  I  flirted  at  Peliti's  with  another  Bandar*s  wife." 

Just  above  Peliti's  is  Hamilton's  shop  where  Jack  Pan- 
say  bought  the  engagement  ring  for  Kitty  Mannering, 
and  concerning  which  the  Bandar  protests  to  the  mortal, 

"Nor  do  I  waste  at  Hamilton's  my  wealth  on  pretty  things." 

[34] 


ANGLO-INDIA 

Now,  we  are  on  the  Mall  where  Pansay  used  to  walk 
beside  the  phantom  'rickshaw,  deep  in  conversation 
with  his 

ghostly  Light-o'-Love  ...  to  the  unspeakable  amazement  of 
the  passers-by. 

Mrs.  Schreiderling,  mourning  vainly  for  her  dead 
love,  "The  Other  Man," 

used  to  trot  up  and  down  the  Mall,  on  that  shocking  bad  saddle, 
looking  as  if  she  expected  to  meet  some  one  round  the  corner  every 
minute. 

On  the  Mall,  "Wressley  of  the  Foreign  Office" 
{Plain  Tales  from  the  Hills)  "the  known,  honoured,  and 
trusted  man  among  men,"  lost  his  heart  to  Tillie  Venner, 

a  frivolous,  golden-haired  girl  who  used  to  tear  about  Simla  Mall 
on  a  high,  rough  Waler,  with  a  blue-velvet  jockey-cap  crammed 
over  her  eyes, — 

the  girl  with  a  pretty  lisp,  the  girl  who  did  not  under- 
stand. 

The  miraculous  shop  of  Lurgan  Sahib,  Kim's  myste- 
rious friend,  is  on  the  Mall,  with  its  collection  of  devil- 
dance  masks — "horned  masks,  scowling  masks,  and 
masks  of  idiotic  terror" — and  "fiend-embroidered  dra- 
peries of  those  ghastly  functions";  quaint  ornaments; 
Oriental  weapons  of  war;  and  wonderful  jewels. 

[  35  1 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

Near  the  upper  part  of  the  Mall,  on  the  slopes  of 
Jakko,  is  Christ  Church  where  Captain  Mafflin,  the 
best  man,  so  devotedly  piloted  his  old  chum  through 
the  mysteries  of  the  ceremony  when  Minnie  Threegan, 
"Little  Featherweight"  {The  Story  of  the  Gadsbys) 
"not  afraid  with  any  amazement,"  was  married  to 
Captain  Gadsby  of  the  Pink  Hussars. 

In  "My  Rival,"  Sweet  Seventeen  gives  vent  to  her 
feelings  in  regard  to  her  rival,  thirty-two  years  her 
senior: 

She  rides  with  half  a  dozen  men 

(She  calls  them  "boys"  and  "mashes,") 
I  trot  along  the  Mall  alone; 

My  prettiest  frocks  and  sashes 
Don't  help  to  fill  my  programme-card. 

And  vainly  I  repine 
From  ten  to  two  A.  M.     Ah  me! 

Would  I  were  forty-nine. 

•  •••••• 

But  even  She  must  older  grow 

And  end  Her  dancing  days. 
She  can't  go  on  for  ever  so 

At  concerts,  balls,  and  plays. 
One  ray  of  priceless  hope  I  see 

Before  my  footsteps  shine: 
Just  think,  that  She'U  be  eighty-one 

When  I  am  forty-nine! 

Here  on  the  Mall,  Strickland,  disguised  as  "Miss 
Youghal's  Sais''  {Plain  Tales  from  the  Hills),  begged  his 

[36] 


tfr 


Coj.yrij^ht  by  Underwood  iSc  Underwood,  N.  V. 


SIMLA  — BEFORE   CHRIST   CHURCH 


Christ  Church,  on  the  slopes  of  Jakko,  is  where 
Captain  MafHin.  the  best  man,  so  devotedly 
piloted  his  old  chum  through  the  mysteries  of 
the  ceremony  when  ]\Iinnie  Threeoan,  "Little 
Featherweight"  (Thr  Sfori/  of  the  Gad.s-by.s)  "not 
afraid  with  any  amazement  "  was  married  to 
Captain  Gadsby  of  the  Pink  Hussars 


ANGLO-INDIA 

friend  for  a  box  of  cheroots.  This  was  our  old  friend 
Strickland  of  the  Police,  whom  people  did  not  under- 
stand and  could  not  appreciate, 

a  quiet,  dark  young  fellow — spare,  black-eyed — and,  when  he  was 
not  thinking  of  something  else,  a  very  interesting  companion. 

Simla  Club  stands  on  a  terrace  just  above  the  Mall.  It 
was  there  that  Strickland,  after  his  scene  with  the 
General,  rushed  into  the  Club  in  the  clothes  of  Miss 
Youghal's  sais  and  galloped  off  again  with  half  the  Club's 
wardrobe  on  his  back,  to  the  house  of  "Old  Youghal" 
and  happiness.  The  Colonel  and  Platte,  the  Subaltern, 
dressing  in  a  hurry,  exchanged  the  "Watches  of  the 
Night"  {Plain  Tales  from  the  Hills)  at  the  Simla  Club, 
whereby  arose  a  complication  of  circumstances  which 
gave  Mrs.  Larkyn,  righteously  indignant  with  the 
Colonel's  wife,  a  chance  to  avenge  the  wrongs  of  her 
friends.  At  the  Club,  you  again  meet  Jack  Pansay  of 
"The  Phantom  'Rickshaw."  Here  after  the  Doctor's 
explanation  of  "fits,"  Pansay  recognized  the  fact  that 
for  the  rest  of  his  natural  life  he  would  be  among  but 
not  of  his  fellows.  It  was  at  the  Simla  Club,  too,  that 
the  story  of  "The  Bisara  of  Pooree"  {Plain  Tales  from 
the  Hills) — "the  only  regularly  working,  trustworthy 
love-charm  in  the  country,  with  one  exception" — was 
told  to  Churton,  its  possessor,  and  overheard  by  Pack, 
"a  nasty  little  man  who  must  have  crawled  into  the 
Army  by  mistake,"  and  who  was 

[39] 


/»    r^  /.•  % 


^^oocsiib 


Kipling's  india 


nearly  mad  with  his  absurd  infatuation  for  Miss  Hollis  .  .  . 
who  was  good  and  sweet,  and  five-foot-seven  in  her  tennis-shoes, 

and  who  "looked  on  Pack  as  some  sort  of  vermin  run- 
ning about  the  road.'* 

"The  Foundry,"  the  cottage  of  Mrs.  Hauksbee  and 
Mrs.  Mallowe,  also  overlooks  the  Mall.  At  "The 
Foundry,"  Mrs.  Hauksbee  "sat  at  the  feet  of  Mrs. 
Mallowe  and  gathered  wisdom";  and  as  a  result,  de- 
cided to  undertake  "The  Education  of  Otis  Yeere" 
( Under  the  Deodars) .  There,  when  the  "  education  "  was 
complete,  Mrs.  Hauksbee  wept  out  her  chagrin  and  dis- 
appointment into  the  sympathetic  ears  of  Mrs.  Mallowe. 

In  "A  Second-Rate  Woman"  {Under  the  Deodars) — 
the  story  that  gives  us  better  than  any  other  the  noble, 
womanly  side  of  Mrs.  Hauksbee's  nature,  in  her  patient 
nursing  of  little  Dora — "The  Foundry"  figures  again 
as  the  scene  of  little  Dora's  peril.  With  the  child  chok- 
ing to  death,  and  her  mother  and  Mrs.  Hauksbee  help- 
less with  fright,  the  "Dowd"  stepped  in,  with  cool 
head  and  steady  hand  applied  the  saving  medicine,  and 
received  the  remorseful  embraces  of  Mrs.  Bent  and  Mrs. 
Hauksbee.  Over  the  teacups  at  "The  Foundry,"  Mrs. 
Hauksbee  proved  that  she  "was  sometimes  nice  to  her 
own  sex,"  when,  for  the  sake  of  an  English  girl  whom 
she  had  never  seen,  she  snatched  Lieutenant  PluflBes 
("The  Rescue  of  Pluffles")  from  the  vampire  hold  of 
Mrs.  Reiver,  the  woman  about  whom  there  was  "noth- 
ing good  unless  it  was  her  dress."     This,  by  the  way, 

[40] 


!5 
o 

•TV  « 

^    V         I^ 

T*  03  •-"    r* 

aSSo:^  I 
a  >  fl 

t«  5  oj  *j 

^rt    CO  ^-    tn 

V  _^  a  " 

"^    t-    O    (- 

<     In 


-a, 


a; 


4; 
CO    4; 

If   44H 


a 

d 

03 

3 
O 


o 
-a 


a 
^  *j  ^ 

_i    "W   C 
a    fl   3 


I    »3    m   c4 

:    H 


ANGLO-INDIA 

was  the  same  Mrs.  Reiver  who  figures  in  the  story  "In 
Error"  {Plain  Tales  from  the  Hills)  as  the  unconscious 
saviour  of  Moriarty. 

Mrs.  Hauksbee  again  came  to  the  rescue  of  a  mis- 
guided youth  when  she  saved  young  Peythroppe  of 
"Kidnapped"  {Plain  Tales  from  the  Hills)  from  mar- 
riage with  the  "impossible"  Miss  Castries. 

Leaving  the  Mall,  you  come  to  Jakko  Hill,  guarding 
the  town  on  the  East.  It  was  near  Jakko,  just  below  the 
Town  Hall,  that  Kim  met  the  Hindu  boy  sent  to  guide 
him  to  the  house  of  Lurgan  Sahib : 

Together  they  set  off  through  the  mysterious  dusk,  full  of  the 
noises  of  a  city  below  the  hillside,  and  the  breath  of  a  cool  wind  in 
deodar-crowned  Jakko,  shouldering  the  stars.  The  house-Hghts, 
scattered  on  every  level,  made,  as  it  were,  a  double  firmament. 
Some  were  fixed,  others  belonged  to  the  'rickshaws  of  careless, 
open-spoken  English  folk,  going  out  to  dinner. 

All  Simla  rides  round  Jakko  Hill.  "A  Ballade  of 
Jakko  Hill"  breathes  of  the  spirit  of  social  life  at  Simla 
as  Kipling  saw  it: 

Woman,  behold  our  ancient  state 

Has  clean  departed;  and  we  see 
'Twas  Idleness  we  took  for  Fate 

That  bound  Ught  bonds  on  you  and  me. 
Amen!  here  ends  the  comedy 

Where  it  began  in  all  good  will, 
Since  Love  and  Leave  together  flee 

As  driven  mist  on  Jakko  Hill ! 
[43] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

In  their  ride  round  Jakko  Hill,  the  lovers  in  *'The  Hill 
of  Illusion"  {Under  the  Deodars)  learned — fortunately 
not  too  late — that  "the  eternal  constancy,"  "unalter- 
able trust,"  "reverent  devotion,"  and  "honour"  so 
often  sworn  toward  each  other,  had  not  so  solid  a  foun- 
dation as  they  had  imagined  when  they  planned  their 
elopement  at  Shaifazehat  a  few  months  before;  and 
they  virtually  withdrew  from  their  compact  while  the 
echoes  of  Mrs.  Buzgago's  solo  rang  in  their  ears : 

See  saw!     Margery  Daw! 
Sold  her  bed  to  lie  upon  straw. 
Wasn't  she  a  silly  slut 
To  sell  her  bed  and  lie  upon  dirt? 

Jakko  comes  into  the  visions  of  the  man  who,  in  "La 
Nuit  Blanche,"  writes  of  his  sensations  during  an  attack 
of  delirium  tremens: 

I  had  seen  as  dawn  was  breaking 

And  I  staggered  to  my  rest, 
Tara  Devi  softly  shaking 

From  the  Cart  Road  to  the  crest. 
I  had  seen  the  spurs  of  Jakko 

Heave  and  quiver,  swell  and  sink; 
Was  it  Earthquake  or  tobacco, 

Day  of  Doom  or  Night  of  Drink? 

A  favourite  place  for  the  appearance  of  the  phantom 
'rickshaw  was  the  Jakko   Road.     Jack  Pansay  and 

[44] 


Copyrij^ht  by  b'iiaerwo..d  A;  Ijndenvood,  N.  Y. 

THE  BROAD  ROAD   AROUND   JAKKO  HILL 


All  Simla  rides  around  Jakko  Hill.  Here  Jack 
Pansay  was  riding  with  Kilty  ^Lannering  when 
he  saw  again  the  IMiantom  'Ricksliaw.  On  the 
Jakko  Road  you  again  meet  with  Mrs.  Hauksbee, 
and  below  the  road  lies  the  little  English  ceme- 
tery where  the  "Tertiam  Quid"  gazed  down  into 
the  grave  which  was  so  soon  to  become  his  own, 
"nasty  and  cold — horribly  cold" 


ANGLO-INDIA 

Kitty  Mannering  were  riding  together  round  Jakko 
when,  after  Pansay's  well-grounded  hope  of  relief  from 
"The  Horror,"  he  saw  again  the  phantom  'rickshaw; 
dragged  Kitty  by  the  wrist  up  to  where  the  phantom 
stood;  revealed,  in  the  insanity  of  his  terror,  the  whole 
story  of  his  relations  with  Mrs.  Wessington;  and  re- 
ceived Kitty's  dismissal  in  the  lash  of  her  riding-whip 
across  his  face.  It  was  on  the  Jakko  Road,  too,  that 
Pansay  begged  the  ghost  of  Agnes  Wessington  to  ex- 
plain the  meaning  of  her  endless  persecution  of  him,  and 
there  he  had  his  answer. 

On  the  Jakko  Road,  you  again  meet  with  Mrs.  Hauks- 
bee.  It  was  while  her  'rickshaw  loitered  round  Jakko 
that  Mrs.  Hauksbee,  in  "The  Education  of  Otis  Yeere," 
preached  to  Otis  Yeere  the  Great  Gospel  of  Conceit; 
and  unconsciously  taught  him  more  than  conceit;  for 
through  his  dreams  "ran,  as  sheet-lightning  through 
golden  cloud,  the  light  of  Mrs.  Hauksbee's  violet  eyes." 
Mrs.  Hauksbee  was  riding  round  Jakko  with  "the 
Hawley  Boy,"  when  they  met  the  "Dancing  Master," 
and  the  "Dowd,"  whose  unkempt  appearance  inspired 
Mrs.  Hauksbee,  when  next  she  saw  her  bosom  friend, 
Mrs.  Mallowe,  to  a  vast  amount  of  scornful  wit.  The 
Jakko  Road  also  knew  well  "The  Man's  Wife"  and  the 
"Tertiam  Quid"  ("At  the  Pit's  Mouth");  and  Jakko 
Road  overlooks  the  little  English  cemetery  where  the 
"Tertiam  Quid"  gazed  down  into  the  grave  which  was 
so  soon  to  become  his  own,  "nasty  and  cold — horribly 

[47] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

cold."     This  cemetery  is  the  "cool  rest-house  down  the 
glen,"  of  "Possibilities,' 


>> 


His  place  forgets  him;  other  men 

Have  bought  his  ponies,  guns,  and  traps. 
His  fortune  is  the  Great  Perhaps 

And  that  cool  rest-house  down  the  glen, 

Whence  he  shall  hear,  as  spirits  may, 
Our  mundane  revel  on  the  height. 
Shall  watch  each  flashing  'rickshaw-light 

Sweep  on  to  dinner,  dance,  and  play. 

"A  Ballad  of  Burial"  tells  of  a  plainsman's  longing 
to  be  carried  after  death  to  that  little  cemetery  at 
Simla: 

I  could  never  stand  the  Plains. 

Think  of  blazing  June  and  May, 
Think  of  those  September  rains 

Yearly  till  the  Judgment  Day! 
I  should  never  rest  in  peace, 

I  should  sweat  and  lie  awake. 
Rail  me  then,  on  my  decease. 

To  the  Hills  for  old  sake's  sake. 

The  cemetery  is  mentioned  again  in  "An  Old  Song"  as 
"those  grim  glades  below," 

Where  heedless  of  the  flying  hoof 

And  clamour  overhead. 
Sleep,  with  the  grey  langur  for  guard 

Our  very  scornful  Dead. 
[48] 


Cii|'.  M-^li'  I  ,  1  iilrrwood  tt  Underwood,  N'    V. 

SIMLA  — THE   LOWER   BAZAAR 


Tlie  Simla  home  of  Mahl)ub  Ali  (/vzm)  ".  .  .  the  crowded 
rabbit-warren  that  climbs  vip  to  the  Town  Hall  at  an  angle  of 
forty-five.  A  man  who  knows  his  way  there  can  defy  all  the 
pohce  of  India's  summer  capital,  so  cunningly  does  veranda 
communicate'  with  veranda,  alley-way  with  alley-way,  and 
bolt-hole  with  bolt-hole.  Here  live  grocers,  oil-sellers,  curio- 
venders,  fire-wood  dealers,  priests,  pickpockets,  and  native 
employees  of  the  Government;  here  are  discussed  by  courtesans 
all  the  things  which  are  supposed  to  be  profoundest  secrets  of 
the  India  Council;  and  here  gather  all  the  sub-sub-agents  of 
half  the  native  States" 


ANGLO-INDIA 

The  Himalayan-Thibet  Road,  which  leads  off  from 
the  Jakko  Road 

is  no  more  than  six  feet  wide  in  most  places,  and  the  drop  into  the 
valley  below  may  be  anything  between  one  and  two  thousand  feet. 

It  was  along  this  path  that  the  "Tertiam  Quid"  rode  to 
his  ghastly  fate. 

In  Chota  Simla,  only  a  short  distance  from  the  ceme- 
tery, is  "Benmore,"  once  a  ballroom,  now  a  Govern- 
ment oflBce,  and  loved  by  all  longtime  residents  of 
Simla  for  old  sake's  sake.  "The  Lover's  Litany"  is  a 
witness  to  this  affection; 

Eyes  of  blue — the  Simla  Hills 
Silvered  with  the  moonUght  hoar; 
Pleading  of  the  waltz  that  thrills, 
Dies  and  echoes  round  Benmore. 

"Mabel,"  "Officers,"  "Good-bye," 

Glamour,  wine,  and  witchery — 

On  my  soul's  sincerity, 

"Love  like  ours  can  never  diet" 

"The  Plea  of  the  Simla  Dancers"  expresses  their 
plaintive  indignation  when  Benmore  was  changed  from 
a  ballroom  into  a  Government  office: 

Too  late,  alas!  the  song 

To  remedy  the  wrong; — 
The  rooms  are  taken  from  us,  swept  and  garnished  for  their  fate, 

But  these  tear-besprinkled  pages 

Shall  attest  to  future  ages 
That  we  cried  against  the  crime  of  it — too  late,  alas!  too  late! 

[51] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

And  regarding  the  dead  comrade  in  "Possibilities,"  we 
read, 

Benmore  shall  woo  him  to  the  ball 
With  lighted  rooms  and  braying  band; 
And  he  shall  hear  and  understand 
"Dream  Faces"  better  than  us  all. 

Miss  Hollis  of  the  "big,  quiet,  grey  eyes,"  suddenly 
released  from  the  spell  of  the  "  Bisara  of  Pooree  "  learned 
at  Benmore  her  terrible  mistake  and  withdrew  from  her 
engagement  to  Pack.  Benmore  was  still  a  ballroom 
when  Strickland  ("Miss  Youghal's  Sais")  used  to  wait 
outside  for  Miss  Youghal: 

Strickland's  account  of  the  agony  he  endured  on  wet  nights, 
hearing  the  music  and  seeing  the  lights  in  "Benmore,"  with  his 
toes  tingling  for  a  waltz  and  his  head  in  a  horse-blanket,  is  rather 
amusing. 

Climbing  steeply  downward  below  Jakko,  you  come 
to  the  lower  bazar,  the  Simla  home  of  Mahbub  Ali 
{Kim)y 

the  crowded  rabbit-warren  that  climbs  up  from  the  valley  to  the 
Town  Hall  at  an  angle  of  forty-five.  A  man  who  knows  his  way 
there  can  defy  all  the  police  of  India's  summer  capital,  so  cunningly 
does  verandah  communicate  with  verandah,  alley-way  with  alley- 
way, and  bolt-hole  with  bolt-hole.  Here  live  those  who  minister  to 
the  wants  of  the  city — jhampanis  who  pull  the  pretty  ladies'  'rick- 

[52] 


ANGLO-INDIA 

shaws  by  night  and  gamble  till  the  dawn,  grocers,  oil-sellers,  curio- 
vendors,  fire-wood  dealers,  priests,  pickpockets,  and  native  em- 
ployees of  the  Government;  here  are  discussed  by  courtesans  all  the 
things  which  are  supposed  to  be  profoundest  secrets  of  the  India 
Council;  and  here  gather  all  the  sub-sub-agents  of  half  the  native 
States. 


Ill 

THE    HIMALAYAS 


Ill 

The  Himalayas 

FOLLOWING  the  Himalayan-Thibet  Road  from 
Simla,  the  traveller  comes  to  the  higher  Hima- 
layas, one  of  the  most  delightful  regions  on  the 
face  of  the  globe.  Warm  green  valleys,  all  sunshine  and 
soft  air  and  flowers  and  bird  songs,  sweep  upward  with 
astounding  abruptness  to  great  forests  of  pines  and 
deodars  swathed  in  moss  and  fern  where  cloud  wreaths 
chase  each  other  in  the  high  wind  and  the  edelweiss 
hides  among  the  rocks;  and  up  and  up  to  giant  glaciers 
and  ice-bound  peaks  that  pierce  the  very  sky.  Once 
enthralled  by  the  spirit  of  the  Himalaya  Mountains  you 
will  hardly  escape,  for  it  is  the  spirit  of  enormous  dis- 
tances, tremendous  heights,  and  terrific  depths;  the  spirit 
of  loud  laughter  of  mountain  torrent  and  the  solemn 
stillness  of  densest  woodland,  of  damp  earth  smells,  of 
black,  impenetrable  shadow  and  blazing,  blinding  light; 
the  spirit  of  glorious  colour  on  plant  and  bird  and  beast, 
on  rock  and  cloud  and  snow. 

Small  wonder  that  Captain  Gadsby  and  his  bride 
(*'The  Garden  of  Eden"),  spending  their  honeymoon  in 

[57] 


Kipling's  india 


the  Himalayas  near  the  Fagoo  Hills,  thought  themselves 
in  the  Garden  of  Eden,  and  that  they  had  "appropri- 
ated all  the  happiness  in  the  world!"  The  Hima- 
layas saw  another  interview  between  Captain  Gadsby  and 
a  lady  when  there  was  not  so  much  happiness  abroad. 
Naini  Tal  in  the  Himalayas,  a  charming  little  summer 
resort,  was  the  place  where  Captain  Gadsby,  during  an 
agonizing  dinner  hour,  "explained  things"  to  the  incom- 
parable "Harriet  Herriott"  ("The  Tents  of  Kedar"). 

"Far  and  far  in  the  Hills  "  Kim  and  his  mild  old  lama 
and  Hurree  Babu  adventured,  the  lama  always  longing 
for  higher  and  yet  higher  hills.  "Oh!  the  hills,  and  the 
snow  upon  the  hills!"  was  his  yearning  cry  while  the 
plainsmen  tried  in  vain  to  keep  pace  with  him  as  "with 
steady,  driving  strokes  from  the  loins  he  strode  up- 
wards." "Shamlegh"  is  one  of  the  many  Himalaya 
Mountain  villages  of  rude  little  huts  "perched  on  the 
edge  of  all  things,"  where  the  trees  are  filled  with  flut- 
tering bits  of  paper  bearing  the  inscription,  written  over 
and  over  again,  ^'Om  mani  padme,  om!''  (Hail  to  the 
Holy  One  [Buddha]  whose  jewel  is  the  lotus,  hail!)  It 
was  here  that  the 

"woman  of  Shamlegh"  {Kim)  "a  fair-coloured  woman  .  .  . 
aught  but  unlovely     .     .     .     with  turquoise-studded  headgear," 

so  hospitably  entertained  Kim  and  the  lama.  "Sham- 
legh" is  not  far  from  Kotgarh,  where  there  is  a  little 
colony  of  English  people,  an  English  mission,  and  a  tel- 

[58] 


. '  ■:  \  right  by  Underwood  iji:  Underwood,  X.  Y. 

Tibetan  Devil-dunco  masks     .     .     .     horned    masks,    scowling 
masks,    and   masks   of   idiotic  terror" — Kim 


Copyright  by  Underwood  &  Underwood,  N.  Y. 

'Oh,  the  hills  and  the  snow  upon  the 
hills!" — Kim 


Copyright  by  Underwood  &  Underwood,  N.  Y. 

LAHORE 

— An  old  Gate 


Through  this  gate  in  the  "wonderful  walled 
city  of  Lahore"  Kim  and  the  Lama  passed  on 
their  search  for  the  River  of  the  Arrow  and  the 
Red  Bull  on  a  Green  Field — Kim 


THE   HIMALAYAS 

egraph  station.  Perhaps  the  woman  of  Shamlegh  was 
"Lispeth"  {Plain  Tales  from  the  Hills),  the  Christian 
girl  of  the  Kotgarh  Mission  who  was  "  beautiful,  like  the 
Princesses  in  fairy  tales,"  and  who  returned  to  her  own 
people  because  an  English  Sahib  had  betrayed  her  trust. 
Just  out  of  Kotgarh  is  "the  pass  called  Muttianee" 
("The  Truce  of  the  Bear")  through  which  "Matun,  the 
old  blind  beggar"  went  down  to  hunt  the  bear  and  just 
beyond  which  he  responded  so  disastrously  to  the  truce 
of  the  bear.  Chini  is  not  far  from  Kotgarh.  Du- 
moise,  the  Civil  Surgeon  of  Meridki  in  the  Punjab 
("By  Word  of  Mouth"),  after  the  death  of  his  wife  and 
just  before  he  died  of  cholera  at  Nuddea  in  Bengal, 
went  on  a  walking  tour  to  Chini. 

and  the  scenery  is  good  if  you  are  in  trouble.    You  pass 


through  big,  still  deodar-forests,  and  under  big,  still  cliffs,  and  over 
big,  still  grass-downs  swelling  like  a  woman's  breasts;  and  the  wind 
across  the  grass  and  the  rain  among  the  deodars  say — 'Hush — 
hush — hush!' 

Just  beyond,  in  Bagi,  a  cold,  lonely  little  Hill  station. 
Ram  Dass,  the  bearer,  saw  the  dead  Mrs.  Dumoise 

'  walking  on  the  road  to  the  village.  She  was  in  a  blue  dress,  and 
she  lifted  the  veil  of  her  bonnet  and  said — "Ram  Dass,  give  my  sa- 
laams to  the  Sahib,  and  tell  him  that  I  shall  meet  him  next  month 
at  Nuddea.'" 

At  a  village  of  the  Himalayas  near  Donga  Pa — the 
Mountain  of  the  Council  of  the  Gods — Athira,  wife  of 

[61] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

Madu,  the  charcoal-burner,  "  one-eyed  and  of  a  malig- 
nant disposition,"  and  Suket  Singh,  Sepoy  of  the  102d 
Punjab  Native  Infantry  ("Through  the  Fire")  learned 
to  love  each  other  "better  than  life,"  and  because  of  an 
evil  fate  forbidding  that  love,  they  chose  death  by  their 
own  hands  rather  than  separation.  The  men  of  Donga 
Pa  across  the  valley  saw 

a  great  fire  .  .  .  winking  and  blazing  through  the  night,  and 
said  that  the  charcoal-burners  of  Kodru  were  getting  drunk. 
But  it  was  only  Suket  Singh  .  .  .  andAthira  .  .  .  burning — 
burning — burning. 

"On  the  road  to  Thibet,  very  many  miles  in  the 
Himalayas,"  lay  a  certain  kingdom, 

eleven  thousand  feet  above  the  sea  and  exactly  four  miles  square; 
but  most  of  the  miles  stood  on  end  owing  to  the  nature  of  the 
country. 

There,  "between  the  tail  of  a  heaven-climbing  glacier 
and  a  dark  birch-forest"  was  the  hut  of  "Namgay 
Doola"  {Lifers  Handicap)  "whom  his  fellow- villagers 
called  the  outlander,"  because  of  his  flaming  red  hair 
and  his  merry  blue  eyes,  and  because  he  worshipped  the 
strange  God  of  the  Crucifix.  And  Namgay  Doola 
drove  to  despair  his  gentle-hearted  King,  whose  reve- 
nues "were  rather  less  than  four  hundred  pounds 
yearly,"  and  whose  standing  army  consisted  of  five  men 
armed  with  utterly  useless  implements  of  war.     Nam- 

[62] 


MOUNT  KINCHINJUNGA 

"The  Eternal  Snow"  of  the  Himalayas 


•A   HEAVEN-CLIMBING   GLACIER 


"The  true  hills."  the  goal  of  the  Lama's  pil- 
grimage with  Kim.  "Above  them,  changeless 
since  the  world's  beginning,  but  changing  to 
every  mood  of  sun  and  cloud,  lav  out  the  eternal 
snow" — Kim 


THE   HIMALAYAS 

gay  Doola  was  the  King's  most  expert  log  snatcher 
when  the  great  deodar  logs  became  jammed  in  the 
stream;  and  he  was  "a  man  of  a  merry  face";  but  he 
refused  to  pay  revenue,  stirred  up  treason  among  his 
fellows,  and  committed  "sacrilege  unspeakable  against 
the  Holy  Cow,"  until  the  King's  English  guest,  who 
understood  Namgay  Doola  and  his  race,  solved  the 
problem  and  set  the  matter  straight.  He  listened  to 
Namgay  Doola's  queer  Lepcha  version  of  "The  Wear- 
ing of  the  Green," 

'Dir  hane  mard-i-yemen  dir 

To  weeree  ala  gee.' 

(They're  hanging  men  and  women,  too. 

For  the  wearing  of  the  green); 

learned  that  Namgay  Doola  was  the  son  of  Tim  Doolan, 
an  Irish  soldier  in  an  East  India  regiment,  and  knew 
that  Namgay  Doola's  acts  were  prompted  by  the  hered- 
itary instincts  of  that  ^ 

"quaint,  crooked,  sweet,  profoundly  irresponsible  and  profoundly   ^ 
lovable  race  that  fight  like  fiends,  argue  like  children,  obey  like 
men,  and  jest  like  their  own  goblins  of  the  rath  through  rebellion,    i 
want,  woe,  or  war."  ^ 

Wlierefore,  the  King,  on  the  advice  of  his  friend,  raised 
Namgay  Doola,  the  rebel,  to  the  position  of  Commander- 
in-Chief  of  the  Army 

"with  honour  .  .  .  and  full  allowance  of  work  .  .  .  and 
liquor  from  certain  bottles" 

but  not  "a  tuft  of  grass  for  his  own." 

[65] 


IV 
THE    GREAT    DESERT 


1 


IV 

The  Great  Desert 

MAKING  his  way  back  through  Simla  and  down 
to  the  Plains,  the  traveller  turns  southward, 
and  journeying  now  by  metre  gauge  and  now 
by  the  broad,  regular  line  of  the  Indian  Railway,  finds 
himself  after  a  few  hours  in  the  heart  of  the  Rajputana 
Desert,  with  all  its  solemn  grandeur  and  all  its  bitter 
desolation.  Miles  and  miles  of  yellow  sand  stretch 
away  to  the  horizon,  broken  only  by  great  boulders, 
ragged  camel's-thorn  bushes,  and  little  scrubby  trees, 
or,  perhaps,  a  whirling  dust  cloud,  which  rises  high  in 
air,  scatters,  and  settles  again.  Here  and  there  the 
waters  of  a  lake  or  river,  blue  and  sparkling  in  the  blaz- 
ing sunshine,  refresh  the  eye;  or  low  hills,  purple  in  the 
distance,  grow  larger,  clearer,  and  less  fascinating  as  one 
nears  their  bare,  brown  ridges  destitute  of  verdure. 
Again,  thatch-roofed  native  huts  peep  out  from  flaunt- 
ing, bright-coloured  foliage  in  a  great  patch  of  forest 
land  where,  among  the  rocks  and  trees,  tigers  and 
leopards  and  wolves  abound.  As  everywhere  else  in 
India,  monkeys  romp  and  chatter  among  the  trees,  little 

[69] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

striped  squirrels  dart  into  sight  and  off  again,  and  the 
green  parrot  looks  down  critically  from  a  distant  bough. 
Occasionally,  a  solitary  camel,  the  jaws  and  brow  of  its 
rider  bound  tightly  against  the  dust,  weaves  across  the 
plain;  a  country  bullock-cart  creaks  dismally  along 
with  its  burden  of  men  or  cotton;  or  a  band  of  gypsies, 
with  wild,  dark  eyes,  splendid  bodies,  and  rainbow  at- 
tire, pass  slowly  by,  driving  their  cattle,  the  ornaments 
of  the  women,  bone  and  iron  and  brass,  clanking  loudly. 
The  heat  is  tremendous,  and  one  wilts  visibly  in  mind 
and  body  and  apparel;  the  blazing  sunshine  blinds  the 
eyes,  and  one  is  glad  indeed  when  the  waning  light 
brings  relief  and  the  much-vaunted  colouring  of  the 
desert — amber,  gold,  opal,  green,  and  crimson — spreads 
over  the  landscape.     This  is  the  country 

where  the  wild  dacoits  abound 


And  the  Thakurs  Uve  in  castles  on  the  hills, 
Where  the  hunnia  and  bunjara  in  alternate  streaks  are  found, 
And  the  Rajah  cannot  hquidate  his  bills. 

The  trackless  desert  of  Upper  Rajputana,  far  from  the 
railway  line,  was  the  scene  of  "The  Strange  Ride  of 
Morrowbie  Jukes"  {Under  the  Deodars),  the  Civil  En- 
gineer who,  in  the  delirium  of  fever,  rode  madly  over  the 
sandy  plain,  brandishing  his  hog  spear  at  the  moon  and 
shouting  challenges  at  the  camel's-thorn  bushes,  and 
plunged  without  warning  into  the  terrible  village  in- 

[70] 


c  5-    • 

:i    ?    "J  I 

d  fe  u  -S 


2     M     X  "^ 


~  (.— .  s' 

-r-   r"   r;   M 

=c  ^  = 

5  S  -  2 
£      -/Js 

C    -i   tj 

M     03     i^  -3 

g  SO  ,cn  *j 
r^         S    S    2 

^    S  S  s  S 

M    >    c3  '^ 


THE   GREAT   DESERT 

habited  by  "the  Dead  who  did  not  die  but  may  not 
Hve." 

The  events  told  of  in  "At  the  End  of  the  Passage" 
{Life's  Handicap)  probably  took  place  also  in  this  desert 
country.  Hummil,  the  Assistant  Engineer,  and  his 
three  friends,  who  had  ridden  so  far  for  the  sake  of  see- 
ing a  white  man's  face — "they  were  lonely  folk  who 
understood  the  dread  meaning  of  loneliness" — spent 
doleful  hours  together  in  the  terrific  heat  of  an  Indian 
summer  on  the  plains — 

The  sky  is  lead  and  our  faces  are  red. 

And  the  gates  of  Hell  are  opened  and  riven, 

And  the  winds  of  Hell  are  loosened  and  driven. 

And  the  dust  flies  up  in  the  face  of  Heaven, 
And  the  clouds  come  down  in  a  fiery  sheet, 

Heavy  to  raise  and  hard  to  be  borne. 

And  the  soul  of  man  is  turned  from  his  meat. 

Turned  from  the  trifles  for  which  he  has  striven 
Sick  in  his  body  and  heavy-hearted. 
And  his  soul  flies  up  like  the  dust  in  the  sheet 
Breaks  from  his  flesh  and  is  gone  and  departed. 

As  the  blasts  they  blow  on  the  cholera-horn. 

And  poor  Hummil,  maddened  by  the  heat  and  lone- 
liness, became  the  victim  of  "terror  beyond  the  ex- 
pression of  any  pen" — hunted  to  death  by  the  "blind 
face  that  cries  and  can't  wipe  its  eyes." 

In  an  insignificant  little  town  of  Eastern  Rajputana 
the  policeman  of  "At  Howli  Thana"  {In  Black  and 

[73] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

White),  concocted  that  marvellous  story  of  the  Dacoity, 
which  should  save  them  from  deserved  punishment, 
and  which  failed  so  completely  before  the  smile  and  the 
"many  eyes"  of  Yunkum  Sahib,  the  Assistant  Com- 
missioner, "Tiger  of  Gokral-Seetarun." 

"  Gokral-Seetarun "  was  the  province  where  Nick 
Tarvin  of  Topaz,  Colorado  {The  Naulahka),  a  gal- 
lant nineteenth-century  knight,  championed  so  loy- 
ally and  successfully  his  lady-love  and  the  pathetic  little 
Maharaj  Kunwar  in  the  midst  of  the  intrigues  of  a 
gypsy  queen;  and  learned  the  invaluable  lesson  that 


-it  is  not  good  for  the  Christian's  health  to  hustle  the  Aryan 


brown. 
For  the  Christian  riles  and  the  Aryan  smiles  and  he  weareth  the 

Christian  down; 
And  the  end  of  the  fight  is  a  tombstone  white  with  the  name  of  the 

late  deceased. 
And  the  epitaph  drear:  "A  fool  lies  here  who  tried  to  hustle  the 

East." 

Chitor  (Gunnaur)  is  the  Dead  City  where,  in  the 
"Gye-Mukh"  or  "Cow's  Mouth"  Nick  sought  the 
Naulahka,  the  priceless  necklace  of  crown  jewels  which 
he  afterward  saw  during  the  wedding  pageant  of  the 
Maharaj  Kunwar. 

It  blazed  with  the  dull  red  of  the  ruby,  the  angry  green  of  the 
emerald,  the  cold  blue  of  the  sapphire,  and  the  white,  hot  glory  of 
the  diamond.     But,  dulling  all  these  glories,  was  the  superb  radi- 

[74] 


JT^^S^ai;^-  '^^.--T^J^IX^ 


Copyright  by  Underwood  &  Underwood,  N.  V. 

THE   LAND   OF   NAMGAY   DOOLA 


"On  the  road  to  Thibet,  very  many  miles  in  the  Himahiyas," 
lay  a  certain  Kingdom,  "eleven  thousand  feet  above  the  sea 
and  exactly  four  miles  square;  but  most  of  the  miles  stood  on 
end  owing  to  the  nature  of  the  country."  There  "between  the 
tail  of  a  heaven-climbing  glacier  and  a  ilark  birch-forest"  was 
the  hut  of  "Namgay  Doola."  {Life's  Handicap.)  It  was  here 
that  the  Special  Correspondent  found  the  Rajah  with  his 
stanfling  army  of  four  men,  the  red-headed  Rebel  with  his 
red-headed  Brood,  and  listened,  puzzled,  to  the  strange  chant 
which  had  such  a  familiar  ring 


THE   GREAT   DESERT 

ance  of  one  gem  that  lay  above  the  great  carved  emerald  on  the 
central  clasp.  It  was  the  black  diamond — black  as  the  pitch  of 
the  infernal  lake,  and  lighted  from  below  with  the  fires  of  Hell. 

The  thing  lay  on  the  boy's  shoulders,  a  yoke  of  flame.  It  out- 
shone the  silent  Indian  stars  above,  turned  the  tossing  torches  to 
smears  of  dull  yellow,  and  sucked  the  glitter  from  the  cloth  of  gold 
on  which  it  lay. 

Chitor  is  on  the  railway  line  from  Ajmir  to  Mhow. 
It  was  once  the  glorious  capital  of  the  Kings  of  Mewar 
and  for  hundreds  of  years  was  the  scene  of  some  of  the 
greatest  dramas  in  Indian  history.  At  the  beginning 
of  the  fourteenth  century,  Ala-ud-din  Khilji,  the 
Pathan  emperor,  having  determined  to  capture  the 
Rajput  queen,  Padmini,  said  to  have  been  the  most 
beautiful  woman  India  has  ever  known,  besieged  the  city 
of  Chitor.  When  the  Rajputs  could  no  longer  hold  the 
place,  all  the  thousands  of  women  of  the  city,  among 
them  Queen  Padmini,  voluntarily  went  to  their  death  on 
funeral  pyres  in  the  subterranean  chambers  of  the 
palace,  while  the  men  dashed  out  of  the  gates  into  the 
very  arms  of  their  enemies,  who  entered  the  city  over 
their  dead  bodies.  Again  Chitor  came  into  the  hands 
of  the  Rajputs  and  was  not  finally  deserted  until  1568, 
when  Akbar  besieged  the  place  and  the  Maharana  Udai 
Singh,  considering  the  defence  hopeless,  left  the  city  to 
its  fate  and  betook  himself  some  miles  to  the  southwest- 
ward,  where  he  founded  the  present  city  of  Udaipur. 
Chitor  is  of  remarkable  shape  and  situation.     Three 

[77] 


Kipling's  india 
miles  in  length,  it  stands  on  the  summit  of  a  huge  rock 
five  hundred  feet  above  the  plain,  the  massive  loop- 
holed  walls  giving  the  city  the  appearance  of  a  great 
battleship.  New  Chitor,  a  comparatively  modern 
town  of  grain  merchants  and  armourers,  nestles  at  the 
base  of  the  fortress,  but  within  the  old  city  there  is  no 
sign  of  human  life.  The  beautiful  palace  of  Padmini, 
the  fine  old  temples,  the  big  empty  reservoirs,  and  wind- 
swept houses  are  given  over  to  the  birds  and  beasts  of 
the  jungle.  The  trees  and  the  elements  have  torn  great 
rents  in  the  walls  and  many  of  the  houses  and  tombs  are 
ruined.  In  the  midst  of  this  ancient  grandeur  stands 
the  old  Jain  Tower  of  Victory,  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  high.  In  the  side  of  a  huge  pit  close  by  and  reached 
from  above  by  a  flight  of  old  stone  steps  is  the  Gye- 
Mukli,  a  sacred  shrine  surrounded  by  trees  and  ruined 
tombs  and  ornamented  with  heroic  stone  figures  of  gods 
carved  in  high  relief.  The  Gye-Mukh  takes  its  name 
from  springs  issuing  from  the  sides  of  the  pit  through  crude 
cow-mouth  carvings,  and  falling  into  a  reservoir  filled  with 
slimy  purple  water.  From  the  Gye-Mukh,  a  passage 
leads  into  the  subterranean  chambers  of  Padmini's  palace, 
where  the  queen  and  her  loyal  women  went  to  their  death. 
It  was  in  this  passage  that  NickTarvin's  foot  crashed  into 
a  skull  and  he  retreated  from  the  gruesome  heaps  of  human 
bones  and  the  wild  emerald-eyed  guardian  of  the  place. 

Rajputana  contains  some  of  the  most  conservative, 
fanatical  Hindus  of  India.     It  was  in  Rajputana  that 

[78] 


•IJr* 


.i»^~ 


CUijyrigl.t  by  Underwood  &  Underwood,  N. 


THE   RAJPUTANA  DESERT 


This  desert  is  a  factor  in  nnmcroTis  Kipling  tales.  It  was  the 
Sfcnc  of  "the  strange  ride  of  M()rro\vl)ie  Jukes,"  the  civil  engineer 
who,  in  his  fever,  rode  into  the  terrible  village  inhaljited  by  "the 
dead  who  did  not  die  Init  may  not  live."  It  is  associated  with  the 
events  related  in  At  the  End  of  the  Passage.  It  plays  a  conspicuous 
part  in  The  yaiilahka.  It  knew  Carnehan  and  Dravot  of  The 
Man  117(0  Woiihl  Be  King.  It  is  the  country 
" — where  the  wild  dacoits  abound 

and  the  Thakurs  live  in  castles  on  the  hills, 
where  the  "  Runnia  "  and  "  Runjara  "  in  alternate  streaks  are  found 

and  the  Rajah  cannot  liquidate  his  bills." 


THE   GREAT   DESERT 

infanticide  was  practised  to  the  greatest  extent,  and  it 

was  here  that  the  custom  of  suttee,  the  burning  of  the 

hving  widow  on  the  pyre  of  her  dead  husband,  survived 

longest.    In  Western  Ra j  putana ' '  The  Last  Suttee ' '  took 

place;  when,  as  the  dead  Rajput  King  lay  on  his  funeral 

pyre  and 

the  death-fire  leaped 

From  ridge  to  river-head. 

From  the  Malwa  plains  to  the  Abu  scaurs: 

the  Queen,  disguised  as  a  dancing  girl,  escaped  from  the 
palace,  and  fearing  the  flames  but  longing  to  share  the 
death  of  her  lord,  besought  the  baron  guarding  the  pyre 
to  kill  her  and  burn  her  with  the  king. 

He  drew  and  struck :  the  straight  blade  drank 

The  life  beneath  the  breast. 
*  I  had  looked  for  the  Queen  to  face  the  flame, 
'But  the  harlot  dies  for  the  Rajpoot  dame — 
'Sister  of  mine,  pass,  free  from  shame. 

'Pass  with  thy  King  to  rest!' 

The  black  log  crashed  above  the  white: 

The  little  flames  and  lean, 
Red  as  slaughter  and  blue  as  steel, 
That  whistled  and  fluttered  from  head  to  heel. 
Leaped  up  anew,  for  they  found  their  meal 

On  the  heart  of — the  Boondi  Queen! 

It  was  near  here,  in  Pali,  that  the  twins  of  "Gemini" 
{In  Black  and  White)  were  born,  the  money-lenders  of 

[81] 


Kipling's  india 
Isser  Jang,  whom  DurgaDass,  one  of  the  twins,  described 
so  accurately  when  he  portrayed  his  brother : 


-a  swine  and  a  night-thief,  a  taker  of  life,  an  eater  of  flies,  a 


jackal-spawn  without  beauty,  or  faith,  or  cleanliness,  or  honour. 

Here  in  Western  Rajputana,  we  come  on  the  trail  of 
Peachey  Carnehan  and  Daniel  Dravot  of  "The  Man 
Who  Would  Be  King  "  {Under  the  Deodars) .  Nasirabad 
is  an  unimportant  little  town  on  the  metre  gauge  line  of 
railway  running  from  Ajmir  to  Mhow;  and  it  was  here 
that  the  Special  Correspondent  made  the  acquaintance 
of  Carnehan. 

a  big,  black-browed  gentleman  in  shirt-sleeves, — a  wanderer  and  a 
vagabond, — but  with  an  educated  taste  for  whiskey." 


who 


told  tales  of  things  he  had  seen  and  done,  of  out-of-the-way  corners 
of  the  Empire  into  which  he  had  penetrated,  and  of  adventures  in 
which  he  risked  his  life  for  a  few  days'  food. 

and  who  finally  sent  a  message  by  the  Correspondent  to 
his  friend  Dravot  at  Marwar  Junction.  Just  to  the 
west,  on  the  railway  line  of  the  Bombay  Mail,  lies  Mar- 
war  Junction,  another  town  of  no  special  importance, 
where  in  the  second-class  railway  carriage  the  Cor- 

[82] 


ELEPHANT  CAPARISONED  l-OR  A  STATE  PAGEANT 


The  elepliants  in  the  wedding  pageant  of  the 
Maharaj  Kiinwar  were  decked  out  in  this  fashion 
—  The  Xaiila'ika 


THE   GREAT   DESERT 

respondent  obligingly  sought  out  Dravot,  the  man  with 
*'a  flaming  red  beard"  and  "a  great  and  shining  face," 
and  gave  him  the  mysterious  message,  "He  has  gone 
South  for  the  week."  Following  close  after  the  clever 
adventurers,  you  find  them  in  some  large  city  of  the 
Punjab,  probably  Lahore,  seeking  in  the  hot  newspaper 
office  of  the  friendly  Correspondent  information  con- 
cerning Kafiristan  which,  with  consummate  impudence 
and  boundless  ambition,  they  have  decided  to  conquer 
and  rule  as  kings,  according  to  their  "Contrack"  with 
each  other : 

This  Contract  between  me  and  you  persuing  witnesseth  in  the 
name  of  God — Amen  and  so  forth. 

(One)  That  me  and  you  will  settle  this  matter  together;  i.  e.,  to 
be  Kings  of  Kafiristan. 

(Two)  That  you  and  me  wdll  not,  while  this  matter  is  being 
settled,  look  at  any  Liquor,  nor  any  Woman  black, 
white,  or  brown,  so  as  to  get  mixed  up  with  one  or  the 
other  harmful. 

(Three)  That  we  conduct  ourselves  with  Dignity  and  Discre- 
tion, and  if  one  of  us  gets  into  trouble  the  other  will 
stay  by  him. 
Signed  by  you  and  me  this  day. 

Peachey  Taliaferro  Carnehan. 

Daniel  Dravot. 

Both  Gentlemen  at  Large. 

Then  comes  the  departure  from  the  Serai  (probably 
the  Kashmir  Serai  of  Lahore),  Dravot  disguised  as  a 

[85] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

mad  native  priest  and  Carnelian  as  his  servant,  travel- 
ling on  camels  ostensibly  to  "the  North  to  sell  charms 
that  are  never  still  to  the  Amir,"  but  carrying,  concealed 
beneath  the  camel-bags,  twenty  Martinis  and  "am- 
munition to  correspond." 


[86] 


V 

THE 

BORDER    COUNTRY 


The  Border  Country 

PESHAWUR,  a  mud-walled  town  with  houses  of 
mud  and  rough  bricks,  is  a  large  British  military 
station  only  a  few  miles  from  the  Afghan  fron- 
tier. Here  Carnehan  and  Dravot  joined  the  caravan  of 
the  trader  going  through  the  Khyber  Pass  to  Kabul,  the 
capital  of  Afghanistan. 

For  more  than  six  hundred  miles,  India  is  bordered  on 
the  northwest  by  Afghanistan,  the  savage  country  of  a 
savage  race — large,  muscular,  war-like  Mahomedans 
— often  called  "Pathans" — unruly  and  fanatical — 
which,  ever  since  the  early  nineteenth  century,  has  been 
at  war,  more  or  less  constant,  with  British  India.  No 
European  is  allowed  to  live  in  the  country — which  is 
made  to  act  as  a  "buffer"  state  between  Russia  and 
India — the  Amir,  as  the  ruler  of  Afghanistan  is  called, 
being  guided  in  all  foreign  affairs  by  the  Indian  Govern- 
ment, from  which  he  receives  an  annual  subsidy. 

Afghanistan  is  a  country  of  violent  contrasts.  Day 
after  day  the  traveller  fights  his  way  through  the  rough 
narrow  defiles  of  lofty,  jagged  mountains,  cold  and  bleak 

[89] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

and  desolate,  or  over  sandy,  fever-stricken  deserts, 
suddenly  to  find  himself  in  the  midst  of  a  pleasant 
summer  valley  whose  fertile  orchards  and  vineyards 
produce  some  of  the  finest  fruits  in  the  world.  Ten 
miles  west  of  Peshawur,  in  a  group  of  marvellous  caves, 
begins  the  Khyber  Pass,  "that  narrow  sword-cut  in  the 
hills,"  which  runs  back  fifty  miles  to  the  centre  of 
Afghanistan.  This  famous  mountain  pass,  which  some- 
times narrows  to  the  bed  of  a  tiny  rivulet,  the  cliffs  on 
each  side  rising  almost  perpendicularly  to  the  height  of 
six  or  seven  hundred  feet,  is  the  highway  for  the  cara- 
vans coming  from  Central  Asia  into  India. 

Along  this  mountain  pass,  Carnehan  and  Dravot 
made  their  way  with  the  Afghan  traders,  the  amusing 
antics  of  Dravot,  "the  mad  priest,"  making  him  a  wel- 
come guest  among  the  friendly  natives.  Leaving  the 
caravans  just  below  Jagdallak,  a  little  mountain  town 
between  Peshawur  and  Kabul,  they  made  their  toilsome 
way  through  the  mountains,  "tall  and  black"  and 
"bitter  cold,  .  .  .  with  never  a  road  broader  than 
the  back  of  your  hand,"  past  hostile  villages,  "dispersed 
and  solitary,"  and  so  to  Kafiristan. 

Kafiristan,  a  small  tract  of  land  in  the  northeastern 
part  of  Afghanistan,  is  but  little  known  to  the  civilized 
world,  whose  only  source  of  information  is  the  account 
of  the  Mahomedan  traders  who  have  entered  the 
country.  From  these  it  has  been  learned  that  Kafir- 
istan, whose  mountains  are  the  higher  peaks  of  the 

[90] 


Copyrii^ht  by  Underwood  &  Underwood,  N.  V. 


THE  TOWER   OF  VICTORY,   CHITOR 

"—the  City  of  the  De;i.l." 


"Tall-built,  sharp-domed  palaces  .  .  .  revealed  the  horror 
of  their  emptiness  and  glared  at  the  day  that  pierced  them  through 
and  tlirough.  The  wind  passed  singing  down  the  empty  streets, 
and,  finding  none  to  answer,  returned,  ehasing  before  it  a  mutter- 
ing cloud  of  dust,  which  presently  whirled  itself  into  a  little  cyclone 
funnel,  and  laid  down  with  a  sigh.  .  .  .  Gigantic  reservoirs 
dry  and  neglected  .  .  .  hollow  guard-houses  that  studded  the 
liattlements  .  .  .  time-riven  arches  that  spanned  the  streets, 
and.  above  all,  the  carven  tower  with  a  shattered  roof  that  sprang 
a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  into  the  air,  for  a  sign  to  the  countryside 
tliat  the  royal  city  .  .  .  was  not  dead,  but  would  one  day 
hum  with  men" — The  Naidahka 


THE    BORDER    COUNTRY 

Hindu  Kush,  is  a  far  more  attractive  country  than  the 
rest  of  Afghanistan.  The  hillsides,  thickly  wooded  with 
oak  and  pine,  and  the  green  valleys,  rich  in  gardens  and 
orchards  and  rolling  meadows,  resemble  the  Himalayan 
country,  while  the  people,  a  pure  type  of  Arj^ans,  are  re- 
markable for  strength  and  beauty,  many  of  the  Kafirs — 
in  strange  contrast  with  their  neighbours  on  every  side — 
being  as  fair  as  Europeans,  with  yellow  hair,  blue  eyes, 
and  pink  cheeks.  The  women  especially  are  said  to 
be  the  handsomest  women  of  the  Orient.  The  Kafirs 
("Kafiristan"  meaning  "the  country  of  unbelievers  in 
Islam")  have  resisted  all  attempts  to  convert  them  to  the 
Moslem  faith,  clinging  tenaciously  to  their  ancient  form 
of  worship,  which  closely  resembles  the  old  Vedic  religion. 
^Miile  the  people  are  barbaric  in  many  ways,  using  bows 
and  arrows  for  weapons,  and  dressing  chiefly  in  goat's 
skin  and  goat's  hair,  they  sit  on  stools  after  the  manner  of 
Europeans  and  have  several  other  European  customs. 

Into  this  country  of  Kafiristan  Peachey  and  Dravot 
suddenly  precipitated  themselves  before  the  simple 
natives,  who  received  them  as  gods;  here  by  masterly 
strategem  they  won  their  sovereignty;  and  here  the 
tragic  farce  ended  with  the  murder  of  Dravot,  hurled  to 
death  from  the  rope  bridge,  and  the  journey  of  Peachey, 
hopelessly  maimed  and  mad  and  bearing  with  him  the 
crowned  head  of  Dravot,  back  to  the  hot  newspaper 
office  in  India  to  tell  his  piteous  tale. 

Through  the  cruel  border  country,  Lieutenant  Austin 

[93] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

Limmason  of  the  White  Hussars  (*'The  Man  Who 
Was  ")  in  his  terrible  flight  from  Siberia  somehow  fought 
through  to  Peshawur,  until  "like  a  homing  pigeon  he 
had  found  his  way  to  his  own  old  mess,"  who  were  en- 
tertaining royally  but  reluctantly  Dirkovitch,  the 
Russian;  and  proved  his  right  to  be  there  by  his  me- 
chanical, accurate  response  to  the  "Queen's  toast,"  that 
"Sacrament  of  the  Mess"  which  "never  grows  old,  and 
never  ceases  to  bring  a  lump  into  the  throat  of  the 
listener  wherever  he  be  by  sea  or  land  ": 

the  colonel  rose,  but  his  hand  shook,  and  the  port  spilled  on 


the  table  as  he  looked  straight  at  the  man  .  .  .  and  said 
hoarsely,  "Mr.  Vice,  the  Queen."  There  was  a  little  pause,  but 
the  man  sprung  to  his  feet  and  answered  without  hesitation,  "The 
Queen,  God  bless  her! "  and  as  he  emptied  the  thin  glass  he  snapped 
the  shank  between  his  fingers. 

Peshawur  and  the  Border  saw  the  mutiny  of  the 
Native  Irregular  Cavalry  ("The  Lost  Legion"),  who 
were  afterward  hunted  to  their  death  by  the  Afghans 
while  they  rode 

stumbling  and  rocking  in  their  saddles,  and  howling  for  mercy 

.  .  .  from  hill  to  hill,  from  ravine  to  ravine,  up  and  down  the 
dried  beds  of  rivers  and  round  the  shoulders  of  bluffs,  till  it  disap- 
peared as  water  sinks  in  the  sand — this  oflScerless  rebel  regiment.'* 

And  all  because  the  Pathans 

"desired  their  clothes,  and  their  bridles,  and  their  rifles,  and  their 
boots, — and  more  especially  their  boots  ...  a  great  killing 
— done  slowly." 

[94] 


THE   KHYBER  PASS 


Below  the  famous  fort  of  Ali  Masjid,  showing  the  Khyber 
rifles  on  the  march.  It  was  through  this  cruel  bonier  country 
that  Austin  Limmason  of  the  White  Hussars,  The  Man  Who 
Was,  forced  his  way  in  his  terrible  flight  from  Siberia.  This  is 
also  the  coimtry  of  the  battle  described  in  Drums  of  the  Fore 
and  Aft,  of  The  Lost  Legion,  of  Lore  o'  Women,  of  Wee  Willie 
Winkie,  and  of  With  the  Main  Guard 


THE    BORDER    COUNTRY 

And  many  years  later,  among  the  Border  Hills,  when 
the  long-suffering  British  Government  moved  at  last 
against  the  outlawed  Gulla  Kutta  Mulla,  the  ghosts  of 
the  Lost  Legion,  stumbling  about  among  their  own 
graves,  won  an  easy  victory  for  the  British. 

Near  the  Edwardes  Gate  in  Peshawur  lived  Suddhoo's 
son  ("In  theHouseof  Suddhoo")  whose  attack  of  pleurisy 
indirectly  cost  his  father  so  many  rupees  and  brought 
upon  his  father's  friends  so  much  perturbation  of  spirit, 
all  through  the  cunning  machinations  of  the  seal-cutter. 

On  the  road  to  Peshawur,  the  sight  of  the  simple, 
honest  love  between  Mulvaney  and  his  Dinah  Shadd, 
with  the  "flower  hand,  foot  av  shod  air,  an'  the  eyes  av 
the  livin'  mornin',"  brought  an  agony  of  remorse  and 
shame  to  "Love-o'-Women"  {Many  Inventions)  of  the 
Black  Tyrone,  a  "gentleman-ranker"  such  as  those  who 
are  told  of  in  "Gentleman-Rankers." 

"We  have  done  with  Hope  and  Honour,  we  are  lost  to  Love  and 
Truth, 

We  are  dropping  down  the  ladder  rung  by  rung, 

And  the  measure  of  our  torment  is  the  measure  of  our  youth. 

God  help  us,  for  we  knew  the  worst  too  young! 

Our  shame  is  clean  repentance  for  the  crime  that  brought  the  sen- 
tence, 

Our  pride  it  is  to  know  no  spur  pf  pride, 

And  the  Curse  of  Reuben  holds  us  till  an  ahen  turf  enfolds  us 

And  we  die,  and  none  can  tell  Them  where  we  died. 
We're  poor  little  lambs  who've  lost  our  way. 
Baa!  Baa!  Baa! 

[97] 


Kipling's  india 

We're  little  black  sheep  who've  gone  astray. 

Baa — aa — aa ! 
Gentleman-rankers  out  on  the  spree, 
Damned  from  here  to  Eternity, 
God  ha '  mercy  on  such  as  we. 
Baa!  Yah!  Bah! 


And  it  was  in  Peshawur  later  on  that  same  day  that  the 
death  of  *'Love-o'- Women"  and  of  his  "Diamonds  and 
Pearls"  in  each  other's  arms  closed  their  tragic  story — 
*'  a  lamentable  tale  of  things  done  long  ago  and  ill  done." 
The  tale  of  "Silver's  Theatre,"  where  "Love-o'- 
Women"  tried  so  hard  to  die  and  failed,  was  told  by 
Mulvaney  ("With  the  Main  Guard")  to  "blandandher" 
his  suffering  comrades  through  "a  stifling  June  night" 
when  "the  heat  under  the  bricked  archway  was  terri- 
fying," when  "a  puff  of  burning  wind  lashed  through 
the  wicket-gate  like  a  wave  of  the  sea,"  and  "the  dust- 
devils  danced  on  the  glacis  and  scoured  the  red-hot 
plain."  "Silver's  Theatre"  was  the  name  given  by 
Mulvaney  and  his  friends  to  "a  gut  betune  two  hills,  as 
black  as  a  bucket,  an'  as  thin  as  a  girl's  waist,"  where 
the  British  and  the  Afghan  soldiers 


"just  rushed  into  each  other's  arrums,  an'  there  was  no  firing  for 
a  long  time.  Nothin'  but  knife  an'  bay 'nit  when  we  cud  get  our 
hands  free:  an'  that  was  not  often" — knee  to  knee — breast  to 
breast — "breathin'  in  each  other's  faces  and  swearin'  powerful." 

[98] 


'M'JH^m 


ROPE  BRIDGE  OVER  A  MOUNTAIN  TORRENT 


It  was  such  a  bridge  of  "dizzy  dancing  ropes" 
that  the  Kafirs  cut,  sending  Dravot  to  his  death 
—  The  Man  Who  Would  Be  Kinj 


THE   BORDER   COUNTRY 

Terence  Mulvaney,  John  Learoyd,  and  Stanley  Or- 
theris  are  described  by  their  friend,  the  Special  Cor- 
respondent, as 

three  men  who  loved  each  other  so  greatly  that  neither  man  nor 
woman  could  come  between  them — in  no  sense  refined,  nor  to  be 
admitted  to  the  outer-door  mats  of  decent  folk,  because  they  hap- 
pened to  be  private  soldiers  in  her  Majesty's  army;  and  private 
soldiers  .  .  .  have  small  time  for  seK-culture  .  .  .  their 
duty 

being 

to  keep  themselves  and  their  accoutrements  specklessly  clean,  to 
refrain  from  getting  drunk  more  often  than  is  necessary,  to  obey 
their  superiors,  and  to  pray  for  a  war  .  .  .  the  worst  men  in 
the  regiment  so  far  as  genial  blackguardism  goes.** 

These  "Three  Musketeers"  stood  firm  in  the  crush  at 
*' Silver's  Theatre,"  Mulvaney  with  his  "bay 'nit,  wid  a 
long  reach,  a  double  twist — an'  a  slow  recover,"  Learoyd 
with  the  rifle-butt  "used  exactly  as  a  man  would  use  a 
dagger,"  and  little  Ortheris  with  his  "breech  that's  wore 
out  a  bit,  an'  amminition  one  year  in  store,  to  let  the 
powder  kiss  the  bullet";  while  Captain  O'Niel — ^the  be- 
loved "  Cruikna-buUeen  " — led  his  men  on  with  a  cheery 
laugh;  while  the  Sergeant  of  the  Tyrone  sat  on  the  head 
of  the  weeping  and  cursing  "little  orf 'cer-bhoy  "  to  save 
him  alive  for  his  mother  in  Ireland;  and  while  the  Black 
Tyrone  fought "  like  so  wis  in  tormint,"  for  they  had  seen 

[101] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

their  dead  mutilated  with  the  soul-sickening  mutilation 
that  the  Afghan  women  inflict  on  the  dead  and  wounded 
of  their  enemy. 

Ortheris  had  a  still  better  chance  to  show  his  skill 
with  the  rifle  when  from  a  pine  grove  near  the  Border  he 
shot  the  deserter  of  the  Aurungabadis  ("On  Greenhow 
Hill")  "seven  hundred  yards  away  and  fully  two  hun- 
dred down  the  hillside."  That  was  the  afternoon  that 
Learoyd,  lying  under  the  pines,  tore  up  a  handful  of 
white  violets  and  told  the  tale  of  his  lost  love,  the  girl  of 
Greenhow  Hill  in  England,  to  win  whom  he  had  nearly 
committed  "black  murder,"  and  who,  when  he  had  en- 
listed in  the  army,  gave  him  a  last  caress  and  whispered 
with  dying  lips,  "Eh,  but  I'd  a'  liked  to  see  thee  i'  thy 
red  coat,  John,  for  thou  was  alius  my  own  lad — my  very 
own  lad,  and  none  else." 

Mulvaney, Learoyd,  and  Ortheris  appear  again  in  that 
Border  tale  where  Lord  Benira  Trig  ('*The  Three  Mus- 
keteers") made  himself  obnoxious  to  the  regiment  by 
desiring  the  garrisons  to  be  turned  out  for  his  inspection 
on  a  holiday  when  "he  would  .  .  .  dine  with  the 
Officer  Commanding,  and  insult  him,  across  the  Mess 
table,  about  the  appearance  of  the  troops."  This  was  at 
"  Helanthami  Cantonment,"  on  the  frontier  and  the  three 
friends  devised  a  scheme,  which  proved  most  successful, 
to  have  Lord  Benira  "dacoited"  by  mischievous  Buldoo 
and  his  friends,  who  were  to  pose  as  Pathans,  and  "gal- 
lantly rescued"  by  themselves — all  that  the  objection- 

[102] 


THE   BORDER   COUNTRY 

able  earl  might  be  made  unfit  to  inspect  troops  until 
their  holiday  should  be  past. 

Fort  Pearson,  near  Kalabagh,  is  another  frontier  fort, 
and  there  took  place  the  events  told  of  by  Crandall 
Minor,  the  young  Subaltern  {Stalky  &  Co.),  as  he  lay  in 
the  darkness  of  the  college  dormitory  and  "spoke  to  the 
generation  he  could  not  see" — how  Duncan  of  the  old 
College,  in  command  of  a  cartload  of  rupees  to  pay  off 
the  troops,  was  attacked  by  the  Pathans,  deserted  by  his 
Sepoy  escort,  and  found  by  his  schoolmate,  Crandall, 
"under  the  wheels  of  the  cart  out  in  the  open,  propped 
up  on  one  arm,  blazing  away  with  a  revolver" ;  and  how  he 
died  a  few  moments  later  with  his  head  on  his  comrade's 
knees.  In  later  years  three  or  four  of  this  "younger  gen- 
eration" bravely  suppressed  the  Khye-Kheen-Malot 
uprising  over  the  Border  {Stalky  &  Co.)  when  "Stalky" 
showed  the  same  remarkable  ability  as  a  strategist  that 
had  distinguished  him  in  his  boyhood  days  at  college. 

It  was  during  a  fierce  fight  on  the  frontier  that 
Captain  Gadsby  of  the  Pink  Hussars  {Story  of  the  Gads- 
bys)  "led  at  Amdheran  after  Bagal-Deasin  went  under, 
and"  they 

were  all  mixed  up  together;  ....  went  through  the  guns 
.  .  .  like  a  devil  possessed  of  devils;  .  .  .  left  his  sword 
.     .     .     In  an  Uttmanzai's  head; 

and  "came  out  of  the  show  dripping  like  a  butcher." 
That  was  the  day  when  Van  Loo,  Captain  Gadsby's 

[  103  ] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

horse,  fell  on  his  rider's  leg  and  an  Afghan  gave  the  Cap- 
tain the  ugly  scar  "all  up  the  arm"  which  one  memor- 
able day  roused  Mrs.  Gadsby's  curiosity  ("Fatima"). 
Then  "Mafflin  came  round  the  corner  and  stopped  the 
performance"  by  cutting  off  the  Afghan's  head.  At 
night  when  the  troops  were  picketed  Gadsby  promised 
Mafflin  that  he'd  stick  by  him  and  the  Pink  Hussars  as 
long  as  he  lived  ("The  Swelling  of  Jordan").  This  was 
the  promise  of  which  Maflflin  mournfully  reminded  Gads- 
by when  Gadsby  told  his  old  friend  that  he  was  going  to 
leave  the  Service  and  go  home  to  England  for  the  sake 
of  his  wife  and  baby. 

Wliite  hands  cling  to  the  tightened  rein, 
Slipping  the  spur  from  the  booted  heel, 

Tenderest  voices  cry,  "Turn  again!" 
Red  Ups  tarnish  the  scabbarded  steel. 

High  hopes  faint  on  a  warm  hearth-stone — 

He  travels  the  fastest  who  travels  alone. 

("L 'Envoi.") 

It  was  Border  warfare  which  showed  Lieutenant 
George  Cottar  "The  Brushwood  Boy  ''{The  Day's  Work) , 
"who  bore  with  him  from  school  and  college  a  character 
worth  much  fine  gold,"  how  truly  effective  was  the 
"machine  of  his  love  and  labour" — his  troop  which  he 
had  guided  with  so  much  tact  and  skill. 

They  were  fit — physically  fit  beyond  the  other  troops;  they  were 
good  children  in  camp,  wet  or  dry,  fed  or  unfed;  and  they  followed 

[  104  ] 


..,:^,- 


«.». 


Copyright  l)_v  T  ii.lt.  «  oud  >\:  I'lulei^v        1,  \,  ^ 

AFGHANISTAN   FROM   THE  KHYBEll  PASS 


This  is  the  entry  into  tiic  country  of  the  rest- 
less Afghans,  the  scene  of  many  a  border  fight  and 
raid  in  Kipling  tales.  Down  through  the  Khyber 
Pass  to  Peshawr.r  came  our  grutf  and  kindly 
friend  Mahhul)  Ali  with  his  caravan — The  Ballad 
nf  the  Ktnifs  Jest 


THE   BORDER   COUNTRY 

their  officers  with  the  quick  suppleness  and  trained  obedience  of  a 
first-class  football  fifteen. 

But  the  honours  won  in  that  first  campaign,  his  pro- 
motion, the  Distinguished  Service  Order,  and  the  idol- 
atry of  his  regiment,  did  not  prevent  Major  George 
Cottar — "the  youngest  major  in  the  Army  " — and  whose 
ideals  had  kept  him  always  from  doing  the  "things  no 
fellow  can  do" — from  drifting  back  at  night  to  the 
wonderful  dreamland  of  his  childhood,  where  the 
beautiful  princess  "  Annieawloulse"  always  played  with 
him  near  the  brushwood  pile  on  the  sandy  beach. 

A  frontier  scrimmage  brought  to  an  end  "The  Mutiny 
of  the  Mavericks"  {Life's  Handicap),  the  Irish  Regi- 
ment which  Mulcahy,  the  Irish- American,  "devoured 
with  blind,  rancorous  hatred  of  England,"  had  tried 
with  so  much  effort  and  beer  to  entangle  in  a  con- 
spiracy against  the  British  Empire.  On  the  field  of 
" Marzun-Katai,"  Horse  Egan  and  Dan  Grady,  "for  the 
honour  of  the  Regiment,"  urged  the  trembling,  cowardly 
Mulcahy  into  the  front  ranks  of  the  fight  against  the 
Afghans,  until 

the  panic  excess  of  his  fear  drove  him  into  madness  beyond  all 
human  courage.  His  eyes  staring  at  nothing,  his  mouth  open  and 
frothing,  and  breathing  as  one  in  a  cold  bath,  he  went  forward 
demented 

to  deeds  of  wild  heroism;  then  "tore  on,  sobbing"  and 

[107] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

alone  into  the  midst  of  the  retreating  Afghans,  until  the 
"  straight-held  blade  "  of  an  Afghan  "went  home  through 
the  defenceless  breast." 

The  195th  Regiment  was  stationed  near  the  Border 
when  *'Wee  Willie  Winkie"  {Under  the  Deodars),  the 
Colonel's  six-year-old  son,  saw  Miss  Allardyce  cross  the 
river  into  the  dangerous  Afghan  territory,  and  promptly 
rode  to  the  rescue,  because  Miss  Allardyce  belonged  to 
his  faithful  friend  and  ally,  "Coppy"  (Lieutenant 
Brandis).  The  rescue  was  affected  on  the  Afghan  side 
of  the  Border  when  Wee  Willie  Winkie  manfully  faced 
the  "Bad  Men"  until  his  regiment  arrived,  thus 
proving  himself  a  "pukka  hero"  and  winning  the  right 
to  his  own  name,  "Percival  William  Williams."  Fort 
Jumrood  on  the  Frontier  is  the  background  of  that  other 
story  where  a  Colonel's  son  is  a  hero  ("The  Ballad  of 
East  and  West")  when  Kamal,  the  Border  chieftain, 
stole  the  Colonel's  favourite  mare  and  rode  away.  He 
was  hotly  pursued  into  his  own  territory  beyond  Jum- 
rood by  the  Colonel's  son,  whose  rash  courage  was  so 
greatly  admired  by  Kamal,  that,  although  he  held  the 
boy's  life  at  his  mercy,  he  not  only  spared  him,  but  took 
with  him  "the  oath  of  Blood-Brother." 


They  have  looked  each  other  between  the  eyes,  and  there  they 

found  no  fault, 
They  have  taken  the  Oath  of  the  Brother-in-Blood  on  leavened 

bread  and  salt; 

[108] 


-iii: 


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o 

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iji 

c3    C    C 

s  i  = 


THE   BORDER   COUNTRY 

They  have  taken  the  Oath  of  the  Brother-in-Blood  on  fire  and  fresh- 
cut  sod, 

On  the  hilt  and  the  haft  of  the  Khyber  knife,  and  the  Wondrous 
Names  of  God. 


Oh,  East  is  East,  and  West  is  West,  and  never  the  two  shall  meet. 
Till  Earth  and  Sky  stand  presently  at  God's  great  Judgment  Seat; 
But  there  is  neither  East  nor  West,  Border,  nor  Breed,  nor  Birth, 
When  two  strong  men  stand  face  to  face,  tho*  they  come  from  the 
ends  of  the  earth. 

"The  Lament  of  the  Border  Cattle  Thief"  is  also  the 
tale  of  a  Jumrood  robber  chief : 

They  have  taken  away  my  long  jezail. 

My  shield  and  sabre  fine. 
And  heaved  me  into  the  Central  Jail 

For  lifting  of  the  kine. 


And  God  have  mercy  on  the  Jut 
When  once  my  fetters  fall, 

And  Heaven  defend  the  farmer's  hut 
When  I  am  loosed  from  thrall. 


Ride  hard,  ride  hard  to  Abazai, 

Young  Sahib  with  the  yellow  hair — 

Lie  close,  lie  close  as  khuttucks  lie. 
Fat  herds  below  Bonair! 

[Ill] 


Kipling's  india 


The  one  I'll  shoot  at  twilight  tide, 

At  dawn  I'll  drive  the  other; 
The  black  shall  mourn  for  hoof  and  hide. 

The  white  man  for  his  brother! 

This  section  of  country  appears  again  in  "The  Head 
of  the  District"  {Life's  Handicap).  On  the  banks  of 
the  Indus  River,  near  Peshawur,  the  dying  Yardley- 
Orde,  Deputy  Commissioner  of  the  *'Kot-Kumharsen" 
District,  bade  good-bye  to  his  friends  and  eagerly 
watched  the  approach  of  the  boat  carrying  his  wife,  who 
arrived  just  one  hour  too  late,  "the  grimmest  practical 
joke  ever  played  on  a  man."  "Kot-Kumharsen,"  the 
district  which  was  deprived  of  the  wise  and  kind 
guidance  of  Yardley-Orde  and  left  in  the  hands  of  a 
South-country  Babu,  lies  under  the  Khusru  Hills  of  the 
Frontier.  Here  it  was  that  the  Khusru  Kheyl,  urged  on 
by  the  fiery  eloquence  of  the  Blind  Mullah  of  Jagai, 
mutinied  and  made  their  unsuccessful  attack  on  the  low- 
land villages:  while  the  South-country  Babu,  "born  in  a 
hothouse,  of  stock  bred  in  a  hothouse,  and  fearing 
physical  pain  as  some  men  fear  sin,"  fled  in  terror,  and 
fever-stricken  Tommy  Dodd  bade  his  fever-stricken 
men  go  forth,  with  the  words, 

"Omen!  If  you  die  you  will  go  to  Hell.  Therefore  endeavour 
to  keep  alive.  But  if  you  go  to  Hell  that  place  cannot  be  hotter 
than  this  place,  and  we  are  not  told  that  we  shall  there  suffer  from 
fever.     Consequently  be  not  afraid  of  dying.     File  out  there! " 

[112] 


I 


THE   BORDER   COUNTRY 

And  here  Tallantire,  the  Assistant  Deputy  Com- 
missioner, who  knew  "the  talk  and  the  heart  of  his 
people,"  ended  his  scathing  denunciation  of  Khoda  Dad 
Khan,  chief  of  the  mutinous  tribes,  with  the  words 
"Rest  assured  that  the  Government  will  send  you  a 
man";  and  received  from  the  Chief  the  praise  he  so 
richly  deserved, 

"Ay  .  .  .  for  we  also  be  men  .  .  .  And  by  God,  Sahib 
may  thou  be  that  man!" 

From  the  Hurrum  Hills  over  the  Border,  Jones  ("A 
Code  of  Morals")  heliographed  to  his  wife  the  love 
messages  and  warnings  concerning  her  moral  welfare, 
which  were  so  inopportunely  read  off  by  General  Bangs, 
riding  with  his  Aide  and  Staff — 

For  clear  as  summer-lightning  flare,  the  husband's  warning  ran: — 
"Don't  dance  or  ride  with  General  Bangs — a  most  immoral  man.'* 

.  •  •  ,  .  .  • 

All  honour  unto  Bangs,  for  ne'er  did  Jones  thereafter  know 
By  word  or  act  official  who  read  off  that  helio.; 
But  the  tale  is  on  the  Frontier,  and  from  Michni  to  Mooltan 
They  know  the  worthy  General  as  "that  most  immoral  man." 

Kurram  Valley,  referred  to  in  "Arithmetic  on  the  Fron- 
tier," is  a  beautiful  bit  of  level,  fertile  country  over  the 
Border,  whose  inhabitants  are  among  the  wildest  and 
most  faithless  of  the  Afghans. 

[113] 


Kipling's  india 

A  great  and  glorious  thing  it  is 
To  learn,  for  seven  years  or  so, 

The  Lord  knows  what  of  that  and  this. 
Ere  reckoned  fit  to  face  the  foe — 

The  flying  bullet  down  the  Pass, 

That  whistles  clear: — "All  flesh  is  grass." 

Three  hundred  pounds  per  annum  spent 
On  making  brain  and  body  meeter 

For  all  the  murderous  intent 

Comprised  in  "villainous  saltpetre!" 

And  after? — Ask  the  Yusufzaies 

What  comes  of  all  our  'ologies. 

•  •  •  •  •  • 

One  sword-knot  stolen  from  the  camp 
Will  pay  for  all  the  school  expenses 

Of  any  Kurram  Valley  scamp 

Who  knows  no  word  of  moods  and  tenses. 

But,  being  blest  with  perfect  sight, 

Picks  off  our  messmates  left  and  right. 


'to'^ 


By  their  pitiful  retreat  during  a  battle  with  the 
Afghans  on  the  Frontier,  *'The  Fore  and  Fit  Princess 
Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen-Anspach's  Merther-Tydfil- 
shire  Own  Royal  Loyal  Light  Infantry,  Regimental 
District  329A"  earned  the  title  of  "The  Fore  and  Aft" 
("The  Drums  of  the  Fore  and  Aft"),  and  were  saved 
from  everlasting  disgrace  by  little  Jakin  and  Lew,  the 
twelve-year-old  drummer  boys  who,  all  alone  on  the 
great  plain  strewn  with  the  dead  and  wounded,  marched 
stifl3y  with  fife  and  drum  into  the  face  of  the  foe,  calling 

[114] 


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V     >     t-     O 
5^    tS    y  ;« 

C    «    "^ 

^.23-£    1 

^    J3   tn   O 

^:h  a 

THE   BORDER   COUNTRY 

on  their  panic-stricken  regiment  to  return  and  meet  the 
enemy. 

"And  in  bitter  mockery  of  the  distant  mob,  the 
old  tune  of  the  Old  Line  shrilled  and  rattled: 

*But  of  all  the  world's  great  heroes 
There's  none  that  can  compare. 
With  a  tow — row — row — row — row — row, 
To  the  British  Grenadier!'" 

And  the  sullen  regiment  responded  with  terrible 
disaster  to  the  Afghans. 

But  some  say,  .  .  .  that  that  battle  was  won  by  Jakin  and 
Lew,  whose  little  bodies  were  borne  up  just  in  time  to  fit  two  gaps 
at  the  head  of  the  big  ditch-grave  for  the  dead  under  the  heights  of 
Jagai. 

Down  through  the  Khyber  Pass  to  Peshawur  came 
our  gruff  and  kindly  friend,  Mahbub  Ali  ("The  Ballad 
of  the  King's  Jest"),  with  his  caravan. 

Lean  are  the  camels  but  fat  the  frails, 
Light  are  the  purses  but  heavy  the  bales, 
As  the  snowbound  trade  of  the  North  comes  down 
To  the  market-square  of  Peshawur  town. 
In  a  turquoise  twilight,  crisp  and  chill, 
A  kafila  camped  at  the  foot  of  the  hill. 
Then  blue  smoke-haze  of  the  cooking  rose. 
And  tent-peg  answered  to  hammer-nose. 
And  the  picketed  ponies  shag  and  wild, 

[117] 


Kipling's  india 


ts 


Strained  at  their  ropes  as  the  feed  was  piled; 

And  the  bubbhng  camels  beside  the  load 

Sprawled  for  a  furlong  adown  the  road; 

And  the  Persian  pussy-cats  brought  for  sale. 

Spat  at  the  dogs  from  the  camel-bale; 

And  the  tribesmen  bellowed  to  hasten  the  food; 

And  the  camp-fires  twinkled  by  Fort  Jumrood; 

And  there  fled  on  the  wings  of  the  gathering  dusk 

A  savour  of  camels  and  carpets  and  musk, 

A  murmur  of  voices,  a  reek  of  smoke. 

To  tell  us  the  trade  of  the  Khyber  woke. 

And  there  Mahbub  Ali  told  his  friend  of  the  King's 
jest,"  how  the  young  lad,  Wali  Dad,  sought  favour  at 
court  by  reporting  as  a  fact  that  which  was  but  a  vague 
rumour,  the  coming  of  the  Russians,  and  of  how  Abd-ur- 
Rahman,  the  Amir,  determined  to  crush  forever  such 
empty  reports,  commanded  the  young  man  to  sit  in  a 
peach  tree  overlooking  the  road  to  Kabul,  and  there  to 
remain  until  the  Russians  should  actually  come. 

"'Watch  from  the  tree.     Thou  art  young  and  strong, 
Surely  thy  vigil  is  not  for  long. 

•  •  •  •  • 

Wait  and  watch.     When  the  host  is  near 
Shout  aloud  that  my  men  may  hear." 

•  •  •  •  • 

'A  guard  was  set  that  he  might  not  flee — 
A  score  of  bayonets  ringed  the  tree. 
The  peach-bloom  fell  in  showers  of  snow, 
When  he  shook  at  his  death  as  he  looked  below. 
By  the  power  of  God,  who  alone  is  great, 

[118] 


Cupyriglit  by  Underwood  &  Underwood,  N.  Y. 


THE   INDUS  RIVER,  NEAR  QUETTA 


"Jack  Barrett's  bones  at  Quetta 
Enjoy  profound  repose; 
Hut  I  shouldn't  he  astonished 

If  now  his  spirit  knows 
Tlie  reason  of  his  transfer 
From  the  Himalayan  snows." 

—  The  Story  of  Uriah 


THE   BORDER   COUNTRY 

Till  the  seventh  day  he  fought  with  his  fate. 

Then  madness  took  him,  and  men  declare 

He  mowed  in  the  branches  as  ape  and  bear, 

And  last  as  a  sloth,  ere  his  body  failed, 

And  he  hung  as  a  bat  in  the  forks,  and  wailed, 

And  sleep  the  cord  of  his  hands  untied. 

And  he  fell,  and  was  caught  on  the  points  and  died. 

"Ford  o'  Kabul  River"  is  a  ballad  of  the  Border. 

Ford,  ford,  ford  o'  Kabul  River, 

Ford  o'  Kabul  River  in  the  dark! 
Gawd  'elp  'em  if  they  blunder,  for  their  boots '11  pull  'em  under. 

By  the  ford  o '  Kabul  River  in  the  dark. 

The  tragedy  of  the  man  from  Little  Malikand  ("  Dray 
Wara  Yow  Dee")  who,  because  she  confessed  her  love 
for  his  rival,  killed  his  young  wife,  formerly  a  maid  of 
the  Abazai,  took  place  across  the  Border  near  Pesha- 
wur.  From  Little  Malikand,  the  dishonoured  husband, 
his  *' heart  dried  up  with  sorrow  and  shame,'"  began  his 
search  for  the  author  of  his  misery. 

"  and  the  head  of  the  woman  of  the  Abazai  was  before  me  night  and 
day,  even  as  it  had  fallen  between  my  feet!  .  .  .  Dray  loara 
yow  dee!  Dray  wara  yow  dee!  The  body  without  the  head,  the 
soul  without  light,  and  my  own  darkling  heart — all  three  are  one — 
all  three  are  one!  .  .  .  If  my  vengeance  failed,  I  would  splinter 
the  gates  of  Paradise  with  the  butt  of  my  gun,  or  I  would  cut  my 
way  into  Hell  with  my  knife,  and  I  would  call  upon  Those  who 
Govern  there  for  the  body  of  Daoud  Shah.  What  love  so  deep  as 
bate?    .    .    .    Ahi!    Ahi!    Alghias!     AM!" 

[121] 


Kipling's  india 
Journeying  southward  along  the  Border,  the  traveller 
comes  to  the  important  frontier  station  of  Quetta  in  the 
Assigned  British  District  of  Baluchistan,  and  situated 
five  thousand  feet  above  sea  level.  Quetta  was  where 
Jack  Barrett  in  "  The  Story  of  Uriah,"  was  sent  while  his 
wife  remained  at  Simla  "on  three-fourths  his  monthly 
screw";  and  when  Barret  died  "ere  the  next  month's 
pay  he  drew,"  "mourned  for  him  five  lively  months  at 
most." 

Jack  Barrett's  bones  at  Quetta 

Enjoy  profound  repose; 
But  I  shouldn't  be  astonished 

K  now  his  spirit  knows 
The  reason  of  his  transfer 

From  the  Himalayan  snows. 

And,  when  the  Last  Great  Bugle  Call 

Adown  the  Hurnai  throbs, 
When  the  last  grim  joke  is  entered 

In  the  big,  black  Book  of  Jobs, 
And  Quetta  graveyards  give  again 

Their  victims  to  the  air, 
I  shouldn't  hke  to  be  the  man, 

Who  sent  Jack  Barrett  there. 

The  Quetta  of  to-day  is  a  very  different  place,  how- 
ever, from  the  Quetta  of  the  time  of  Jack  Barrett. 
From  a  mudwalled  cantonment,  wretchedly  lonely  and 
unhealthful,  it  has  grown  to  a  prosperous,  beautiful  city 

[122] 


THE   BORDER   COUNTRY 

of  some  twenty -five  thousand  inhabitants.  Quetta,  ly- 
ing as  it  does  in  the  path  which  a  Russian  invasion  of 
India  would  probably  take,  is  the  most  strongly  fortified 
outpost  of  the  British  Empire  in  India.  Although 
cruelly  bleak  and  cold  in  the  winter  time,  it  has  been, 
since  the  extension  of  its  railway  lines,  one  of  the 
popular  summer  resorts  of  the  north. 

Southeast  of  Quetta,  near  Chachuran,  is  "Arti-goth" 
("The  Bubbling  Well  Road"),  where  grew  the 

"patch  of  the  plumed  jungle-grass,  that  turns  over  in  silver  when 
the  wind  blows,  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  high  and  from  three  to 
four  miles  square," 

in  which  the  hunter  of  pig  and  Mr.  Wardle,  his  terrier, 
becoming  lost,  stumbled  on  the  horrid  mystery  of  the 
Bubbling  Well  and  the  evil  priest  of  the  Arti-goth  "  whose 
most ' pressing  need"  was  "a  halter  and  the  care  of  the 
British  Government." 


[123] 


VI 

THE 
OLDEST    LAND 


4N] 

A 


VI 

The  Oldest  Land 
ND  now  we  come  back  to  the  "Oldest  Land": 


A  stone's  throw  out  on  either  hand 
From  that  well-ordered  road  we  tread. 

And  all  the  world  is  wild  and  strange: 
Churel  and  ghoul  and  Djinn  and  sprite 
Shall  bear  us  company  to-night, 
For  we  have  reached  the  Oldest  Land 

Wherein  the  Powers  of  Darkness  range. 
(From  The  Dusk  to  tJie  Dawn.) 

From  Peshawur  on  the  northern  boundary  of  India  to 
Calcutta  on  the  eastern  boundary,  is  a  journey  of  nearly 
two  thousand  miles.  All  along  the  way  at  frequent  in- 
tervals crops  out  the  Kipling  country.  A  few  gener- 
ations ago,  when  India  lacked  her  present-day  railway 
facilities,  the  traveller  would  have  taken  his  way  by 
mail  tonga  or  bullock-cart  along  the  Grand  Trunk  Road 
which  runs  straight  through  from  Peshawur  to  Calcutta. 
The  Grand  Trunk  Road  was  the  "broad  road"  spoken 
of  by  the  Ressaldar  when  he  guided  Kim  and  the  lama 
on  their  pilgrimage  toward  the  south. 

[127] 


Kipling's  india 

And  now  we  come  to  the  broad  road  .  .  — ^the  great  road 
which  is  the  backbone  of  all  Hind.  For  the  most  part  it  is  shaded 
,  .  .  with  four  lines  of  trees;  the  middle  road — all  hard — takes 
the  quick  traffic.  In  the  days  before  rail-carriages  the  Sahibs  trav- 
elled up  and  down  here  in  hundreds.  Now  there  are  only  coun- 
try-carts and  such  like.  Left  and  right  is  the  rougher  road  for  the 
heavy  carts — grain  and  cotton  and  timber,  bhoosa,  lime,  and  hides. 
A  man  goes  in  safety  here — for  at  every  few  kos  is  a  police-station. 
The  pohce  are  thieves  and  extortioners  .  .  .  but  at  least  they 
do  not  suffer  any  rivals.  All  castes  and  kinds  of  men  move  here 
.  .  .  Brahmins  and  chumris,  bankers  and  tinkers,  barbers  and 
bunnias,  pilgrims  and  potters — all  the  world  going  and  coming. 

Out  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Road,  Miriam,  the  wife  of 
Ephraim  ("  Jews  in  Shushan  ")  wandered  in  search  of  her 
dead  little  ones  and  when 

the  sun  rose  and  beat  upon  her  head,     .     .     .     she  turned  into  the 
cool  wet  crops  to  he  down,  and  never  came  back. 

In  "Route  Marchin',"  the  Regiment  is  marching 
along  the  Grand  Trunk  Road. 

Oh,  there's  them  Injian  temples  to  admure  when  you  see, 
There's  the  peacock  round  the  corner  an'  the  monkey  up  the  tree, 
An'  there's  that  rummy  silver  grass  a-wavin'  in  the  wind, 
An'  the  old  Grand  Trunk  a  trailin'  like  a  rifle-sling  be'ind. 

While  it's  best  foot  first. 

And  the  road  a-sliding  past. 

An'  every  bloomin'  campin '-ground  exactly  like  the  last; 

While  the  Big  Drum  says. 

With  'is  "  rowdy-dowdy-dow!" — 

*'Kiko  kissywarsti  don't  you  hamsher  argy  jow?" 

[  128  ] 


Copyright  b>   L'tiderrtootl  &  Underwood,  N.  Y. 


LAHORE,   KIM'S   CITY,   A  VIEW  FROM  THE  FORT 
Lahore  was  the  City  of  Dreadful  Ni?ht 


Photoi^raph  by  Bro\\  n  Brothers,  N.  V. 

"MOTHER  GLNGA"  — THE  GANGES  RIVER 


The  holy  river  of  the  Hindus.  For  three 
years  Findlayson  {The  Bridijr  Builders)  hail  en- 
dured heat  and  cold,  disappointment,  di.scom- 
fort,  danger,  and  disease,  in  order  to  build  the 
great  Kashi  bridge  over  the  river,  when  the 
terrible  flood  descendeil 


THE   OLDEST   LAND 

There  is  nothing  especially  striking  about  the  town  of 
Meridki,  a  few  miles  north  of  Lahore,  but  there  lived 
"The  Dormice"  ("By  Word  of  Mouth")— Dumoise  the 
Civil  Surgeon  and  his  wife — who  in  life  loved  each 
other  with  absorbing  devotion  and  who  in  death  were 
most  strangely  united.  Dumoise  takes  an  unimportant 
part  in  "The  Mark  of  the  Beast"  {Life's  Handicap)  and 
now  we  meet  again  Strickland  of  the  Police,  "who  knows 
as  much  of  the  natives  of  India  as  is  good  for  any  man." 
When  Fleete  insulted  the  god  Hanuman  he  received  the 
"mark  of  the  beast"  from  the  Silver  Man,  "a  leper  as 
white  as  snow,"  who 

"had  no  face,  because  he  was  a  leper  of  some  years'  standing,  and 
his  disease  was  heavy  upon  him"; 

and  at  Strickland's  bungalow,  Strickland  and  the 
Correspondent  tortured  the  Silver  Man  with  the  red- 
hot  gun-barrels  and  the  tightening  cord  until  he  re- 
moved the  spell  and  "the  soul  of  Fleete"  came  "back 
into  the  eyes."  Strickland  and  the  Correspondent 
took  part  in  another  of  India's  mysteries  when  Strick- 
land learned  a  further  lesson  in  regard  to  the  nature  of 
the  Oriental  in  his  discovery  behind  the  ceiling-cloth  of 
the  awful  Thing  which  had  once  been  Imray  ("The 
Return  of  Imray"),  the  "fluttering,  whispering,  bolt- 
fumbling,  lurking,  loitering  Someone"  who,  invisible  to 
all  but  the  wonderful  dog,  Tietjens,  came  "in  the  twi- 
light to  seek  satisfaction." 

[  131  ] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

Lahore,  the  capital  of  the  Punjab,  is  rich  with  KipHng 
fancies.  This  old  walled  city,  with  its  thirteen  massive 
gates,  has  been  of  great  importance  since  the  early  days 
of  Hinduism  and  flourished  magnificently  during  the 
reign  of  the  Grand  Moghuls.  It  is  now  the  centre  of  art 
and  learning  of  the  Punjab;  the  Punjab  University  is 
there  and  the  Central  Museum  and  School  of  Art. 
Among  the  modern  residences  and  public  buildings,  and 
the  clanging  tramcars  of  present-day  civilization,  you 
find  the  ruins  of  ancient  palaces  and  Hindu  temples 
built  before  the  Christian  era;  and  splendid  specimens 
of  Saracenic  architecture  dating  from  the  time  of  Akbar 
and  of  Jehangir.  The  most  important  of  these  is  the 
palace-fort  of  Akbar,  now  used  as  a  barracks  for  the 
British  Army,  and  known  in  Kipling's  stories  as  "Fort 
Amara."  Some  of  the  apartments  in  the  old  palace  are 
beautiful  specimens  of  the  favourite  Saracenic  decoration, 
pietra  dura  work  in  white  marble.  In  "On  the  City 
Wall"  {In  Black  and  White),  Kipling  writes: 

— No  man  knows  the  precise  extent  of  Fort  Amara.  Three 
kings  built  it  hundreds  of  years  ago,  and  they  say  that  there  are 
miles  of  underground  rooms  beneath  its  walls.  It  is  peopled  with 
many  ghosts,  a  detachment  of  Garrison  Artillery,  and  a  Company 
of  Infantry.  In  its  prime  it  held  ten  thousand  men  and  filled  its 
ditches  with  corpses. 

Another  splendid  building  of  Saracenic  architecture  is 
the  white  marble  tomb  of  Anarkali,  a  beautiful  slave 

[132] 


■■   a 

'     < 
■      H 

< 


ci 

CI 

o 


THE   OLDEST   LAND 

girl,  who  was  buried  alive  by  the  Emperor  Akbar  on 
suspicion  that  she  had  been  unfaithful  to  him  with  his 
son  Jehangir,  who  afterward  erected  the  tomb  and  in- 
scribed thereon  in  Persian  the  lines : 

"Ah,  if  I  could  again  see  the  face  of  my  beloved, 
To  the  day  of  judgment  I  would  give  thanks  to  my  creator." 

Zam-Zammeh  meaning,  *Hhe  lion's  roar,'*  is  the  name 
of  the  great  gun  which  stands  near  the  old  Art  Mu- 
seum and  which  figured  for  generations  in  the  wars  of 
the  Punjab.  Lahore  was  Kim's  home,  and  our  first 
glimpse  of  Kim  is  playing  king-of-the-castle  astride 
Zam-Zammeh,  that  *' fire-breathing  dragon,"  the  great 
green-bronze  piece  "which  is  always  first  of  the  con- 
queror's loot."  Here  he  meets  the  lama  and  here  begins 
their  pilgrimage  in  search  of  the  River  of  the  Arrow  and 
the  Red  Bull  on  a  Green  Field.  Close  by,  in  the  Art 
Museum,  the  lama  and  the  curator  of  the  museum,  the 
original  of  whom  is  supposed  to  be  Mr.  Lockwood  Kip- 
ling, discussed  the  wonders  and  beauties  of  the  Buddhist 
religion,  and  Kim  lay  with  his  ear  to  the  door  to  learn  the 
mission  of  the  lama.  Near  the  walls  of  the  city  is  the 
beautiful  Mosque  of  Wazir  Klian  from  whose  tall  minaret 
the  restless  observer  gazed  out  over  Lahore  City  on  a 
stifling  August  night : 

Dore  might  have  drawn  it !     Zola  could  describe  it — this  specta- 
cle of  sleeping  thousands  in  the  moonlight  and  in  the  shadow  of  the 

[135] 


Kipling's  india 

Moon.  The  roof-tops  are  crammed  with  men,  women  and  children 
and  the  air  is  full  of  undistinguishable  noises.  They  are  restless 
in  the  City  of  Dreadful  Night;  and  small  wonder.  The  marvel  is 
that  they  can  even  breathe.  If  you  gaze  intently  at  the  multitude, 
yjou  can  see  that  they  are  almost  as  uneasy  as  a  dayhght  crowd;  but 
Wie  tumult  is  subdued.  Everywhere,  m  the  strong  Hght,  you  can 
^atch  the  sleepers  turning  to  and  fro;  shifting  their  beds  and  again 
Resettling  them.  In  the  pit-like  court-yards  of  the  houses  there 
is  the  same  movement. 
The  pitiless  Moon  shows  it  all. 

Within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  Mosque  of  Wazir 
Khan  stood  the  opium  den,  "The  Gate  of  the  Hundred 
Sorrows"  (Plain  Tales  from  the  Hills),  where  the 
Eurasian  Gabral  Misquitta,  who  cared  for  nothing  in 
the  world  but  the  "Black  Smoke,"  lay  on  his  mat  in  a 
corner  and  smoked  day  and  night,  "quiet,  soothed,  and 
contented,"  while  murder  and  hideous  death  and  wicked- 
ness of  all  sorts  took  place  in  his  very  sight. 

The  bazars  of  Lahore  are  thoroughly  old-world  and 
Oriental.  The  hot,  narrow  streets  reek  with  the  inde- 
scribable odour  of  native  India,  an  oppressive  but  not  al- 
together disagreeable  combination  of  cheap  tobacco, 
rancid  butter,  garlic,  onions,  currie  powder,  and  cocoa- 
nut  oil  with  roses,  jasmine,  spices,  and  musk.  The  shop- 
keepers lounge  lazily  amid  their  wares  piled  up  on  the 
floor  of  their  little  box-like  stalls,  and  the  gaunt  pa- 
riah dogs  sniff  here  and  there  in  their  occupation  of 
city  scavengers. 

[136] 


Copyright  by  Underwood  4S:  Underwoud,  N.  Y. 


A  NATIVE  BAZAAR  AT  LAHORE 


In  one  of  these  bazaars  Kim,  by  reason  of  his 
Irish  bhmdislinients,  and  his  rout  of  the  Brah- 
minee  bull,  won  from  tlie  low-caste  vegetable 
seller  a  warm  meal  for  himself  and  his  Lama 


THE   OLDEST   LAND 

It  was  in  the  Motee  Bazar  that  the  good-natured,  low- 
caste  vegetable-seller  gave  Kim  his  first  meal  for  the 
lama.  Far  out  near  the  railway  station  is  the  Kashmir 
Serai,  the  scene  of  Kim's  first  move  in  the  Great  Game, 
when  Mahbub  Ali  bade  him  carry  to  Umballa  *'the 
pedigree  of  the  white  stallion."  The  Kashmir  Serai 
is  a 

huge  open  square  over  against  the  railway  station,  surrounded  with 
arched  cloisters  where  the  camel  and  horse  caravans  put  up  on  their 
return  from  Central  Asia.  Here  were  all  manner  of  Northern  folk, 
tending  tethered  ponies  and  kneeling  camels;  loading  and  unloading 
bales  and  bundles;  drawing  water  for  the  evening  meal  at  the  creak- 
ing well  windlasses;  piling  grass  before  the  shrieking,  wild-eyed 
stallions;  cujBSng  the  surly  caravan  dogs;  paying  off  camel  drivers; 
taking  on  new  grooms;  swearing,  shouting,  arguing,  and  chaffering 
in  the  packed  square.  The  cloisters,  reached  by  three  or  four 
masonry  steps,  made  a  haven  of  refuge  around  this  turbulent  sea. 
Most  of  them  were  rented  to  traders,  as  we  rent  the  arches  of  a 
viaduct; the  space  between  pillar  and  pillar  being  bricked  or  boarded 
off  into  rooms,  which  were  guarded  by  heavy  wooden  doors  and 
cumbrous  native  padlocks. 

The  home  of  "William  the  Conqueror"  {The  Day's 
Work)  and  of  Scott  of  the  Irrigation  Department  was  in 
Lahore.  There  during  a  dinner  at  the  Martyns',  Scott 
began  to  feel  a  very  deep  interest  in  William  the 
Conqueror,  the 

girl  who  never  set  foot  on  the  ground  if  a  horse  were  within  hail; 
who  rode  to  dances  with  a  shawl  thrown  over  her  skirt;  who  wore 
her  hair  cropped  and  curling  all  over  her  head;  who  answered  in- 

[139] 


Kipling's  india 

differently  to  the  name  of  William  or  Bill;  whose  speech  was  heavy 
with  the  flowers  of  the  vernacular;  who  could  act  in  amateur  theat- 
ricals, play  on  the  banjo,  rule  eight  servants  and  two  horses,  their 
accounts  and  their  diseases,  and  look  men  slowly  and  deliberately 
between  the  eyes — even  after  they  had  proposed  to  her  and  been 
rejected. 

Thus  began  the  little  drama  which  had  its  climax 
when,  in  the  midst  of  their  splendid  work  among  the 
famine-stricken  people  of  the  Madras  Presidency, 
William  the  Conqueror  saw  Scott  at  the  head  of  his  pro- 
cession of  famine  babies  and  milch  goats  and 

beheld  with  new  eyes  a  young  man,  beautiful  as  Paris,  a  god  in  a 
halo  of  golden  dust,  walking  slowly  at  the  head  of  his  flocks,  while 
at  his  knee  ran  small  naked  Cupids. 

And  the  happy  end  of  the  drama  came  during  Christmas 
week  in  Lahore — the  time  of  greatest  festivity  in  the 
Punjab — when  William  and  Scott  celebrated  their 
homecoming;  and  William  found  herself 

"  unofficially  .  .  .  the  chief  and  honoured  guest  among  the 
Stewards,  who  could  make  things  very  pleasant  for  their  friends." 

In  Lahore,  lived  Lalun  ("On  the  City  Wall")  who 
was 

"beautiful  exceedingly  according  to  the  native  standards  which 
are  practically  the  same  as  those  of  the  West" : 

[140] 


la.Vvj?-^ 


o  p  >,ti 

4->     fcH    i'    CS 

V   trf 

*^-a  cs-r 

tiekc 
and 
tea-p 
ciirre 

D                  O 

=■  :^     oj  o 

n  tl 
rts, 
ittl 
on 

0    e3        'ii 

ery,  w 

of  He 

formal 

umilia 

-ifi    u    C-G 

—  -ft   aj  -. 

•*-'=«-">> 

u  «  St: 

>  1—1    0)    be 

"3  ,     c^  O 

I-      C    rX 

«    o3    -  ^ 

.^  c^  c 

J-<  -^  ii 

Kin 
the 
liiini 
Lieu 

U      r'  •  — 

l|^     = 

i:jl 

*'5-5  a  oj 

<l'^^ 

^  —  5 

< 

THE   OLDEST   LAND 

and  at  the  window  of  her  house  on  the  city  wall 
she  sang  to  her  sitar  patriotic  native  songs  which  helped 
to  rouse  in  the  breast  of  Khem  Singh,  the  captive  at  Fort 
Amara,  his  slumbering  hatred  of  the  English  and  the 
memory  of  days  when  he  was 

"a  great  man  .  .  .  who  had  once  made  history  with  a  thousand 
followers,  and  would  have  been  princeling  but  for  the  power  of  the 
Supreme  Government." 

During  the  Mohorrum  riots  at  Lahore  between  Mussul- 
man and  Hindu,  Wali  Dad,  the  young  Mahomedan, 
carried  away  by  his  fierce,  racial  instincts,  which  he 
thought  had  died  within  him,  plunged  into  the  fight  and 
forgot  his  promise  to  help  Lalun  in  a  certain  conspiracy; 
and  it  was  at  Lalun's  house  that  the  Correspondent,  in 
helping  Khem  Singh  to  escape,  became  an  innocent  party 
to  that  conspiracy,  thus  proving  true  Lalun's  declaration 
that  the  Correspondent  would  one  day  become  her  vizier. 
The  "great,  red-walled  city  "  told  of  in  "  Without  Ben- 
efit of  Clergy"  {Life's  Handicap)  as  the  home  of  Am- 
eera,  was  probably  Lahore.  There  in  the  little  native 
house,  far  removed  from  his  English  bungalow  and 
its  life,  John  Holden  of  the  Civil  Service  and  Ameera, 
a  Mussulman's  daughter  whom  he  had  bought  from  her 
mother,  lived  with  their  baby  son,  "  a  gold-coloured  little 
god,"  a  life  whose  "delight  was  too  perfect  to  endure"; 
and  which  ended  so  sorrowfully  when  sickness  smote  to 
death  both  the  baby  son  and  Ameera,  and  John  Holden, 

[  143  ] 


Kipling's  india 


leaning  above  the  girl  who  was  "all  but  all  the  world  in 
his  eyes,"  caught  her  last  whisper: 

"I  bear  witness — I  bear  witness  .  .  .  that  there  is  no  God 
but — ^thee,  beloved!" 

The  romance  of  Trejago  and  Bisesa  ("Beyond  the 
Pale")  was  probably  also  a  romance  of  Lahore.  In  the 
heart  of  the  native  city  Trejago,  an  Englishman, 
stumbled  on  Bisesa,  a  daughter  of  India,  "fairer  than 
bar-gold  in  the  mint,"  and  learned  to  love  her  '*more  than 
anyone  else  in  the  world"  and  to  find  her  "an  endless 
delight,"  until  the  blissful  idyll  ended  abruptly  with  the 
terrible  punishment  suffered  by  Bisesa  for  her  stolen 
love-feast,  and  her  mysterious  and  complete  disappear- 
ance from  the  life  of  her  English  lover. 

Just  out  of  Lahore  is  the  jungle  near  the  Bridge  of 
Boats  over  the  Ravi  River  which  was  a  favourite  place 
of  meeting  of  the  four  friends,  Mulvaney,  Learoyd, 
Ortheris,  and  the  Correspondent,  when  they  were  freed 
for  a  few  hours  from  duty  at  "Fort  Amara."  It  was  in 
one  of  the  pontoons  of  the  Bridge  of  Boats  that  Mul- 
vaney, dabbling  his  bare  toes  in  the  water,  after  being 
"walked  off"  by  his  two  chums,  Learoyd  and  Ortheris, 
fully  repented  of  his  wish  to  shoot  Sergeant  MuUins 
who  had  insulted  him; and, drinking  the  Correspondent's 
beer,  talked  himself  into  good  humour  again  with  the 
story  of  "Black  Jack"  {Soldiers  Three) y  which  told  of 
Sergeant  O'Hara,  who  was  threatened  with  murder  by 

[  144  ] 


Copyright  by  Underwood  &  Underwood.  N.  V. 


THE    SUTTEE   PILLAR  AT   BENARES 


The  English  have  now  forbidden  this  terrible 
custom.  The  La.st  Siiftee  tells  of  the  Rajput 
queen  who,  by  means  of  her  disguise  as  a  danc- 
ing girl,  eluded  the  ])alaee  guards  and  found  the 
death  she  sought  on  the  funeral  pyre  of  the  king 


THE    OLDEST    LAND 

the  Black  Tyrone  and  saved  by  Mulvaney's  neat  little 
trick  with  the  Martini  Henri  rifle.  In  the  tall  grass  of 
this  jungle,  Lieutenant  Ouless  ("His  Private  Honour"), 
the  young  Subaltern  who  had  thoughtlessly  struck  with 
his  cane  Private  Ortheris — "a  good  man,  a  proved  man, 
and  an  Englishman" — retrieved  his  error  by  giving  full 
satisfaction  with  the  fists  to  the  insulted  private  and  won 
his  warm  commendation:  "There  ain't  nothing  wrong 
with  Ouless.  'E's  a  gentleman  all  over!"  Near  the 
same  spot  took  place  the  violent  struggle  of  Ortheris's 
soul  ("The  Madness  of  Private  Ortheris")  when,  lying 
"  on  his  stomach  with  his  head  between  his  fists,  .  .  . 
he  swore  quietly  into  the  blue  sky";  went  "mad  with 
the  homesickness";  "waded  through  the  deep  waters 
of  affliction  and  behaved  abominably." 

The  military  cantonment  of  Lahore  is  Mian  Mir,  two 
or  three  miles  to  the  southeast,  the  most  dreary,  deso- 
late, unhealtliful  cantonment  in  the  whole  of  India. 

The  Regiment  of  Stanley  Ortheris  was  stationed  at 
Mian  Mir  when  the  Special  Correspondent  saved 
Stanley  from  punishment  for  being  "drunk  and  dis- 
orderly" and,  much  against  his  will,  received  from  Stan- 
ley, as  a  hostage  for  his  future  good  behaviour,  the  dog 
he  loved  best  in  the  world  ("Garm — A  Hostage"), 


-a  dog  with  whom  one  lives  alone  for  at  least  six  months  in  the 


year;  a  free  thing,  tied  to  you  so  strictly  by  love  that  without  you 
he  will  not  stir  or  exercise;  a  patient,  temperate,  humorous,  wise 

[147] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

soul  who  knows  your  moods  before  you  know  them  yourself,  is  not 
a  dog  under  any  ruling. 

Then  there  was  no  peace  or  happiness  for  the  Cor- 
respondent, annoyed  and  uncomfortable  at  the  pain  he 
was  involuntarily  causing :  for  the  Correspondent's  dog. 
Vixen,  hurt  and  jealous  because  of  her  master's  at- 
tention to  the  strange  dog;  or  for  Stanley  or  his  dog  who 
were  breaking  their  hearts  over  the  separation  from  each 
other;  until  the  Correspondent  set  out  with  Garm  and 
Vixen  and  at  last  found  Stanley  in  the  Hills,  where  he 
had  been  sent  on  sick  leave.  At  sight  of  his  master 
Garm 

flew  through  the  air  bodily,  and  I  heard  the  whack  of  him  as  he 
flung  himself  at  Stanley,  knocking  the  little  man  clean  over. 
They  rolled  on  the  ground  together,  shouting  and  yelping  and  hug- 
ging.    I  could  not  see  which  was  dog  and  which  was  man, 

and  Stanley  decided  that  "he  was  not  going  to  give  up 
Garm  any  more  to  anybody  under  the  rank  of  Beelze- 
bub." So  the  Correspondent  and  Stanley  and  Garm 
and  Vixen  became  "the  four  happiest  people  in  all  the 
world  that  night." 

If,  like  Kim  and  the  lama,  you  take  the  night  train 
from  Lahore,  you  come  to  "the  fort-like  railway  station, 
black  in  the  end  of  night" — Lahore  is  an  important  mili- 
tary command  and  the  railroad  station  is  built  so  that 
it  may  be  used  as  a  fort  if  need  be — and  see  what  Kim 

[148] 


THE   OLDEST   LAND 

and  the  lama  saw — *'the  electrics  sizzling  over  the 
goods  yard  where  day  and  night  they  handle  the  heavy 
northern  traffic,"  and  the 

gigantic  stone  hall  paved,  it  seemed,  with  the  sheeted  dead — third- 
class  passengers  who  had  taken  their  tickets  overnight  and  were 
sleeping  in  the  waiting-rooms.  All  hours  of  the  twenty-four  are 
aUke  to  Orientals,  and  their  passenger  traffic  is  regulated  accord- 
ingly- 
then,  when  the  train  roars  in,  the  sleepers  springing  to  life 

and  the  station  filled  with  clamour  and  shoutings,  cries  of  water 
and  sweetmeat  vendors,  shouts  of  native  pohcemen,  and  shrill 
yells  of  women  gathering  up  their  baskets,  their  famihes,  and  their 
husbands. 

About  thirty  miles  down  the  line  from  Lahore  lies 
Amritsar  where  by  his  clever  trickery,  Kim  won  the 
ticket  to  Umballa  from  the  Amritsar  "Breaker  of 
Hearts";  and  where  took  place  William  the  Conqueror's 
informal  little  tea-party  on  the  train. 

The  walled  city  of  Amritsar,  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant cities  of  the  Punjab,  is  remarkably  beautiful 
with  its  magnificent  palaces,  graceful  towers,  and  green 
parks.  Founded  in  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century, 
it  has  always  been  the  capital  city  of  the  Sikhs.  Here 
Ran  jit  Singh,  the  great  Sikh  leader,  who  at  one  time 
owned  the  Koh-i-Noor  diamond,  built  the  Golden 
Temple,  which  stands  on  a  marble  platform  in  the  midst 
of  a  clear  blue  lake,  "The  Pool  of  Immortality."     The 

[149] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

lower  parts  of  the  walls  are  of  white  marble,  but  all  the 
rest  of  the  building  is  covered  with  gilded  copper  and 
the  four  doors  are  plated  with  silver.  Inside  on  a  white 
silk  sheet  sits,  day  and  night,  one  of  the  priests  of  the 
Sikhs,  in  the  midst  of  votive  offerings  of  flowers  and 
grain  and  money,  reading  the  Granth,  the  holy  book  of 
the  Sikhs,  while  peacock  fans  are  waved  above  his  head 
and  his  pupils  gather  about  him,  listening  to  his  words. 
Hundreds  of  fearless  doves,  cooing  and  fluttering  here 
and  there,  complete  the  impressive  scene. 

Lieutenant  Golightly's  humiliation  ("The  Arrest  of 
Lieutenant  Golightly")  occurred  at  Amritsar.  It  was 
while  Golightly  was  riding  down  from  Dalhousie  to 
Pathankote  that  a  heavy  rainstorm  so  ruined  his  spick 
and  span  riding  costume  that  from  having  the  appear- 
ance of  "an  Officer  and  a  Gentleman" — "If  there  was 
one  thing  on  which  Golightly  prided  himself  more  than 
another,  it  was  looking  like^aaj^fficer  and  a  Gentle- 
man"-— he  came  to  look  like  a  "most  villainous  loafer." 
It  was  not  surprising,  then,  that  he  was  arrested  on 
suspicion  of  being  a  private  who  had  deserted;  and,  al- 
though he  fought  and  raged  and  "swore  won'erful" 
until  he  was  "nearly  hysterical,"  he  was  ignominiously 
carried  in  custody  to  Amritsar  and  released  only  when 
one  of  his  own  majors  appeared  and,  after  making  due 
allowances,  recognized  him  as  the  proverbially  im- 
maculate Golightly. 

At  Umballa,  a  military  station  containing  nothing  of 

[150] 


THE   OLDEST   LAND 

particular  interest  to  the  tourist,  the  traveller  changes 
cars  from  the  Northwestern  to  the  East  Indian  Railway. 
Not  far  from  Umballa,  little  Shadd,  Mulvaney's  only 
child,  died  almost  before  he  had  breathed,  as  if  in  fulfil- 
ment of  the  "Black  Curse  of  Shielygh,"  hurled  at  Mul- 
vaney  by  old  Mother  Sheehy  ("The  Courtship  of  Dinah 
Shadd  ") ;  and  thus  came  the  "  inextinguishable  sorrow" 
of  Mulvaney  and  his  Dinah  Shadd,  "the  strong,  the 
patient,  and  the  infinitely  tender." 

At  Umballa,  Kim  and  the  lama  spent  a  peaceful  night 
at  the  home  of  the  cultivator's  relatives ,  and  Kim  deliv- 
ered to  Creighton  Sahib  "the  white  stallion's  pedigree." 

Saharanpur  is  a  small  town,  but  is  well  worth  visiting  \  ^ 

for  the  sake  of  its  fine  botanical  gardens  and  its  splendid  ^^'i/^ 
view  of  the  Himalaya  Mountains.  At  Saharanpur  was 
the^Tohg  white'ramBlirtg^TDTise"  where  the  old  woman  '^ 
from  Kulu — *'a  woman  with  a  heart  of  gold  but  a 
talker — something  of  a  talker — "  entertained  with  such 
cordial  hospitality  Kim  and  the  lama  and  Hurree  Babu; 
cared  for  the  lama  during  Kim's  sickness,  and,  with  all 
a  mother's  tenderness,  nursed  Kim  back  to  health.  It 
was  near  this  home  at  Saharanpur  that  the  lama  found 
at  last  his  River  of  the  Arrow,  and  freed  Kim  from  the 
"Wheel  of  Things."  ^    / 

".  .  .  the  River  of  the  Arrow  is  here  .  .  .  I  have  found  it. 
Son  of  my  soul,  I  have  wrenched  my  soul  back  from  the  Threshold 
of  Freedom  to  free  thee  from  all  sin — as  I  am  free,  and  sinless. 
Just  is  the  Wheel.     Certain  is  our  deliverance.     Come!" 

[151] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

He  crossed  his  hands  on  his  lap  and  smiled,  as  a  man  may  who 
has  won  Salvation  for  himself  and  his  beloved. 

When  Kim,  restless  with  the  routine  of  St.  Xavier's, 
"ran  out  to  learn  the  game  alone,"  he  came  to  Delhi  in 
the  course  of  lus  wancterrngs--and  pronounced  it  "a 
wonderful  city."  He  spoke  none  too  strongly.  For 
forty-five  square  miles  about  the  site  of  present-day 
Delhi  lie  the  ruins  of  former  Delhis.  One  Moghul 
emperor  after  another,  dissatisfied  with  the  location  of 
the  capital,  built  a  new  city  near  the  old  one  until,  in  all, 
six  or  seven  cities  have  risen  to  power  and  fallen  to  decay 
in  practically  the  same  location.  The  Delhi  of  to-day 
was  founded  in  1631  by  Shah  Jehan,  that  emperor  lovei' 
who  is  best  known  as  the  builder  of  the  peerless  Taj 
Mahal  at  Agra. 

Inside  the  walls  of  the  palace  fort  are  pavilions  and 
closed  apartments  in  bewildering  profusion.  Of  chief 
interest  are  the  Pearl  Mosque  of  white  and  gray  marble 
exquisitely  carved  and  inlaid  with  mother-of-pearl,  and 
the  Halls  of  Public  and  Private  Audience,  dazzling  in 
their  gorgeous  beauty  of  carved  white  marble  inlaid  with 
gold  and  gems  and  semi-precious  stones.  The  Hall  of 
Private  Audience  is  said  to  be  the  most  beautiful  single 
apartment  in  the  world;  and  here  we  read,  inscribed  in 
Persian  on  the  walls,  the  frequently-quoted  lines: 

If  heaven  can  be  on  the  face  of  the  earth, 
It  is  this,  oh !  it  is  this,  oh !  it  is  this ! 
[  152  ] 


^11 


THE   OLDEST   LAND 

In  the  Hall  of  Public  Audience  once  stood  the 
wonderful  Peacock  Throne,  a  massive  structure  wrought 
of  gold  and  priceless  gems. 

From  the  Lahore  Gate  in  the  Fort  to  the  Lahore  Gate 
in  the  city  wall  runs  the  Chandni  Chauk,  one  of  the  best- 
known  streets  in  the  world.  A  macadamized  road  a 
mile  long  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  broad,  and 
lined  with  noble  trees,  it  is  the  busiest  street  in  India  and 
the  gayest  and  most  diversified  in  colour  and  type.  The 
best  shops  in  Delhi  are  there,  and  the  constant  pro- 
cession of  men  on  the  backs  of  elephants  and  camels  and 
horses,  riding  in  palanquins  or  carriages,  or  walking 
along  the  street,  make  up  one  of  the  most  interesting 
scenes  in  the  Orient. 

The  chief  reminder  of  the  prominent  part  which  Delhi 
took  in  the  Sepoy  Rebellion  is  the  battered  Kashmir 
Gate  which  speaks  so  eloquently  of  the  almost  un- 
believable heroism  of  Brigadier-General  John  Nichol- 
son and  his  men. 

The  Jama  Masjid,  or  Great  Mosque,  of  red  sandstone 
and  white  marble,  should  certainly  be  visited;  and  an 
eleven-mile  drive  carries  one  out  to  the  Kutb  Minar, 
that  shaft  of  red  sandstone  and  white  marble,  richly 
carved  and  gracefully  shaped,  which  inspired  Bishop 
Heber's  praise: 

"The  Moghuls  designed  like  Titans  and  finished  like 
jewellers." 

After  the  disastrous  defeat  of  Paniput,  Scindia,  the 

[155] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

Mahratta  chief  ("With  Scindia  to  Delhi"),  with  "La- 
lun,"  a  maid  he  loved,  lashed  behind  him  on  his  horse, 
fled  to  Delhi  pursued  by  an  Afghan, 

"A  swine-fed  reiver  of  the  North  that  lusted  for  the  maid." 

Close  to  the  city  walls,  Scindia's  horse  became  ex- 
hausted with  the  double  burden — 

Yea,  Delhi  town  was  very  near  when  Lalun  whispered:  "Slay! 
"  Lord  of  my  life,  the  mare  sinks  fast — stab  deep  and  let  me  die!" 
But  Scindia  would  not,  and  the  maid  tore  free  and  flung  away, 
And  turning  as  she  fell  we  heard  the  clattering  Populzai. 

Our  Gods  were  kind.     Before  he  heard  the  maiden's  piteous  scream, 
A  log  upon  the  Delhi  road,  beneath  the  mare  he  lay — 
Lost  mistress  and  lost  battle  passed  before  him  like  a  dream; 
The  darkness  closed  about  his  eyes — I  bore  my  King  away. 

At  Cawnpore  we  change  cars  for  Lucknow,  for,  al- 
though Lucknow  is  somewhat  off  the  regular  line,  we 
turn  aside  to  visit  the  city  where  Kim  went  *'up  to  the 
Gates  of  Learning."  Lucknow  is  the  scene  of  the 
famous  siege  in  the  Mutiny,  of  which  the  ruined  Resi- 
dency, with  the  *' banner  of  England"  always  flying 
from  "the  topmost  roof,"  is  a  pathetic  monument.  The 
city,  once  the  capital  of  Oude,  is  comparatively  modern, 
with  wide,  beautiful  parks  scattered  here  and  there  and 
great  buildings  ornately  decorated — a  city  of  kings,  all 
green  and  white  and  gold.     In  the  old  days,  the  gates  of 

[  156  ] 


THE   OLDEST   LAND 

the  public  parks  were  set  with  jewels,  and  one  of  the 
streets  was  paved  with  silver.  The  great  Imambara,  in 
which  stood  the  silver  throne,  bears  witness  to  the  mag- 
nificence of  the  Kings  of  Oude.  The  Great  Imambara, 
built  for  a  shrine  iniwhich  to  celebrate  the  Mahorrum,the 
famous  Mahomedan  New  Year's  festival,  is  a  most  im- 
posing structure,  with  vast  halls  of  tesselated  marble 
surrounding  an  open  court.  Another  building,  especially 
noticeable,  is  the  Chutter  Munzil,  once  the  king's  harem, 
now  used  as  a  Club  House  and  Public  Library,  whose 
great  domes  look  like  golden  umbrellas.  A  drive 
through  Lucknow,  seeing  what  Kim  saw  from  his  ticca- 
gharri,  and  we  heartily  endorse  Kim's  words,  "a  fair 
city — a  beautiful  city!" 

There  is  no  city — except  Bombay,  the  queen  of  all — more  beau- 
tiful in  her  garish  style  than  Lucknow,  whether  you  see  her  from 
the  bridge  over  the  river,  or  the  top  of  the  Imambara,  looking  down 
on  the  gilt  umbrellas  of  the  Chutter  Munzil,  and  the  trees  in  which 
the  town  is  bedded.  Kings  have  adorned  her  with  fantastic  build- 
ings, endowed  her  with  charities,  crammed  her  with  pensioners, 
and  drenched  her  with  blood.  She  is  the  centre  of  all  idleness,  in- 
trigue, and  luxury,  and  shares  with  Delhi  the  claim  to  talk  the  only 
pure  Urdu. 

Lucknow  was  Hannasyde's  station  ("On  the  Strength 
of  a  Likeness")  and  when  Mrs.  Landys-Haggert  stopped 
off  at  Lucknow  to  attend  a  big  ball  at  the  Chutter  Munzil, 
Hannasyde  continued  the  attentions  he  had  shown  to  her 

[157] 


Kipling's  india 
at  Simla  a  month  previous,  because  she  was  Hke  his  old 
sweetheart,  Alice  Chisane,  who  had  married  another 
man.     And  here  Mrs.  Haggert  bade  him  farewell: 

As  the  train  went  out  slowly,  Mrs.  Landys-Haggert  leaned  out 
of  the  window  to  say  good-bye — "On  second  thoughts  au  revoir, 
Mr.  Hannasyde.  I  go  Home  in  the  Spring,  and  perhaps  I  may 
meet  you  in  town." 

Hannasyde  shook  hands,  and  said  very  earnestly  and  adoringly 
— "I  hope  to  Heaven  I  shall  never  see  your  face  again!" 

And  Mrs.  Haggert  understood. 

Coming  back  to  Cawnpore,  one  of  the  chief  manu- 
facturing cities  of  India,  the  traveller  turns  at  once  to 
the  memorials  of  the  city's  tragic  part  in  the  Great  Mu- 
tiny of  1857.  Chief  of  these  memorials  is  Marochetti's 
marble  statue  of  the  Angel  of  the  Resurrection  sur- 
rounded by  a  Gothic  screen  in  the  midst  of  a  delightful 
park.  Over  the  gate  of  the  screen  are  inscribed  the 
words,  "These  are  they  which  came  out  of  great  tribu- 
lation"; and  on  the  pedestal  of  the  statue. 

Sacred  to  the  perpetual  Memory  of  the  great  company  of  Chris- 
tian people,  chiefly  Women  and  Children,  who  near  this  spot  were 
cruelly  massacred  by  the  followers  of  the  rebel  Nana  Doondoo, 
Panth  of  Bithoor,  and  cast,  the  dying  with  the  dead,  into  the  well 
below,  on  the  xvth  day  of  July,  MDCCCLVII. 

Through  the  streets  of  Cawnpore  Mulvaney  clung  to 
the  back  of  a  maddened   elephant   ("My  Lord,  the 

fl58] 


.  =--       r-         ^ 


s| : 

»-  >  c  . 
5;   ^  -r-  ■ 


-  fee 
"^  c  • 


^        .^  -t-> 

I  ■;^  <  i 

"O  3-22 


i    O    g    = 

§      to      ^      r- 


^"sMtS 


»^     t-l 


THE   OLDEST    LAND 

Elephant")  and,  by  punishment  and  kindness  wisely 
mingled,  conquered  the  great  beast  and  won  his  friend- 
ship; so  that  years  afterward  on  the  Frontier  the 
elephant  refused  to  go  forward  with  his  guns — thus 
blocking  the  Pass  and  delaying  the  advance  of  two 
thousand  soldiers — until  he  had  seen  his  old  friend  Mul- 
vaney. 


"Down,  Malachi,"  I  sez,  "an' put  me  up  .  .  ."  He  was  on 
his  knees  in  a  minut  an'  he  slung  me  up  as  gentle  as  a  girl.  "Go 
on,  now,  my  son,"  I  sez.  "  You're  blockin '  the  road."  He  fetched 
wan  more  joyous  toot,  an'  swung  grand  out  av  the  head  av  the 
Tangi,  his  gun-spear  clankin'  on  his  back,  an'  at  the  back  av  him 
there  wint  the  most  amazin '  shout  I  iver  heard. 


Now  is  sighted  th^L-Hanges-River,  which  flows  from 
the  Himalaya  Mountains  fifteen  hundred  miles  to  the 
Bay  of  Bengal.  This  is  the  holy  river  of  the  Hindus 
who  swear  "by  the  waters  of  the  Ganges,"  as  Christians 
take  their  oath  by  the  Bible.  "Mother  Gunga,"  as  the 
Hindus  call  her,  is  believed  to  spring  from  the  feet  of 
Vishnu  and  to  cleanse  from  all  sin.  For  three  years, 
Findlayson  ("The  Bridge-builders")  "had  endured 
heat  and  cold,  disappointment,  discomfort,  danger,  and 
disease,  with  responsibility  almost  too  heavy  for  one  pair 
of  shoulders,"  in  order  to  build  the  great  Kashi  Bridge 
over  the  Ganges,  when  the  terrible  flood  descended 
which  almost  wrecked  his  honour  and  happiness,  for 

[161] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

"there  were  no  excuses  in  his  service.  Government  might  listen 
perhaps,  but  his  own  kind  would  judge  him  by  his  bridge,  as  that 
stood  or  fell." 

Then  came  the  grumbling  of  Mother  Gunga  because 
the  bridge-builders  had  her  in  irons,  and  the  council  of 
the  gods  from  which  Mother  Gunga  retired  baffled  and 
beaten,  and  Findlayson  emerged  triumphant,  for  his  be- 
loved bridge  held  firm. 

Benares,  where,  at  the  Temple  of  the  Tirthankers,  the 
lama  made  his  home  when  Kim  was  not  with  him,  was 
founded  three  thousand  years  ago  and  is  the  holiest  of 
holy  cities,  for  it  is  sacred  to  Buddhists  as  well  as  Hindus 
(at  the  beginning  of  his  teachings,  Buddha  came  to 
Benares) ,  some  seven  hundred  million  people  in  all.  The 
Hindu  believes  that  while  the  rest  of  the  world  rests  on 
the  back  of  a  tortoise,  Benares  is  upheld  on  the  trident 
of  Vishnu,  the  god  of  preservation,  who  further  blessed 
the  city  with  a  well  thirty  feet  deep,  filled  with  his 
own  perspiration,  by  bathing  in  which  a  man  receives 
an  absolute  surety  of  heaven.  This  well  is  a  revolting 
mixture  of  stagnant  water  and  decayed  flowers  and 
foodstuffs  which  have  been  thrown  in  as  religious  offer- 
ings by  the  thousands  of  Hindus  who  go  down  the  steps 
of  the  well  to  drink  and  bathe  in  the  water.  Among  the 
hundreds  of  temples  and  mosques  at  Benares,  the  only 
one  of  real  beauty  is  the  Mosque  of  Aurungzebe  with  its 
two  slender,  graceful  minarets  towering  high  above  the 
city.     The  brass  work  and  silks  of  the  bazaars  will  de- 

[162] 


Coli>right  by  n.  L.  \\  Inli-  L"..  N  .   'i  . 

A   TEMPLE  OF  THE  TIRTHANKERS  AT  BENARES 


In  a  cell  here  the  Lama  made  his  home  when 
Kim  was  not  with  liim,  and  here  Kim  cured  the 
Jat's  child  of  a  fever 


THE   OLDEST   LAND 

tain  the  traveller  for  a  time,  but  he  will  soon  leave  the 
arcaded,  tortuous  streets,  narrow  and  filthy,  where  the 
sacred  cows  and  monkeys  are  allowed  full  liberty,  for 
the  riverside,  the  chief  attraction  of  Benares.  The  best 
way  to  see  this  is  to  sit  in  a  comfortable  chair  on  the 
deck  of  a  river  boat  which  the  coolies  row  slowly  up  and 
down.  For  three  miles  the  high  bank  swarms  with 
palaces,  temples,  mosques,  and  long  flights  of  steps 
going  up  from  the  river  at  every  point.  Here,  among 
the  sacred  cattle  and  the  pariah  dogs,  congregate  the 
Hindus  engaged  in  the  ceremonies  of  their  religion — 
priests  under  their  huge  umbrellas;  wild-eyed,  self- 
torturing  fakirs,  naked  and  loathsome  in  grease  and 
paint  and  ashes;  and  countless  devotees  bathing  in  the 
river,  which  receives  the  sewage  of  the  city,  or  burning 
their  dead  on  its  banks.  No  wonder  Kim  thought 
Benares,  *' a  peculiarly  filthy  city." 

To  the  temple  of  Prithi-Devi  in  Benares  ("The  In- 
carnation of  Krishna  Mulvaney"),  the  coolies  carried 
Mulvaney  in  the  gorgeous  palanquin  which  "the  three 
musketeers"  had  won  in  fair  fight  from  Dearsley,  fore- 
man of  the  construction  works;  and  from  the  shelter  of 
the  palanquin  Mulvaney  saw,  at  the  big  Queens'  Pray- 
ing in  the  temple,  the  wives  and  daughters,  of  most  of 
the  kings  of  India, 

more  glorious  than  thransformations  at  a  pantomime,  for  they  was 
in  pink  an '  blue  an '  silver  an '  red  an '  grass  green,  wid  di  'monds  an ' 

[165] 


Kipling's  india 


im  'raids  an '  great  red  rubies  all  over  thim.  But  that  was  the  least 
part  av  the  glory  .  .  .  they  were  more  lovely  than  the  like 
av  any  loveliness  in  hivin;  ay,  their  httle  bare  feet  were  better  than 
the  white  hands  av  a  lord 's  lady,  an '  their  mouths  were  like  puck- 
ered roses,  an'  their  eyes  were  bigger  and  dharker  than  the  eyes 
av  any  livin'  women  I've  seen. 


There,  wrapping  the  pink  lining  of  his  palanquin 
around  him  for  a  mantle,  and  using  a  beer  bottle  for  a 
flute,  Mulvaney  impersonated  the  god  Krishna  before 
the  worshipful,  credulous  gaze  of  the  women,  and  thus 
escaped  from  the  temple. 

Now  the  train  speeds  through  Bengal  toward  Cal- 
cutta, and  the  climate  and  the  scenery  change  com- 
pletely. The  air  is  heavy  and  moist,  and  fragrant  with 
the  flowers  and  spicy  weeds  of  the  tropical  woodland. 
All  nature  riots  in  luxuriance  of  growth  and  loveliness  of 
colour,  and  the  forests  on  both  sides  of  the  track  are  wide 
and  deep  with  a  vast  amount  of  tangled  undergrowth. 
Far  to  the  east  are  the  beautiful  wooded  mountains  of 
Assam  where,  among  the  Garo  Hills,  Kala  Nag  {The 
Jungle  Book)  carried  little  Toomai  to  the  elephant 
dance.  Off  in  the  west  are  the  Seonee  Hills,  the  home  of 
Mowgli  {The  Jungle  Booh)  and  his  wolf  brothers,  who 
conquered  Tabaqui,  the  cowardly  jackal,  and  Shere 
Khan,  the  wicked,  man-eating  tiger,  and  years  later 
drove  at  their  will  the  guilty  Abdul  Gafur  and  the  Nil- 
ghai,  and  taught  Gisborne  of  the  Woods  and  Forests  and 

[166] 


Copyright  by  Underw.jutl  \'  Underwoo-l,  N.  V. 


THE  SHWE  DAGON  PAGODA 


In  The  Song  of  the  Cities,  Rangoon  greets  Eng- 
land witli  the  words, 


"Hail,  Mother.     Do  they  call  me  rich  in  trade? 
Little  care  I.  hut  hear  the  shorn  priest  drone. 
And  watch  my  silk-clad  lovers,  man  by  maid, 
Laugh  "neath  my  Sliwe  Dagon." 


THE   OLDEST   LAND 

MuUer,  his  Chief,  strange  secrets  of  "The  Rukh"  {Many 
Inventions) . 

Not  many  miles  from  the  Seonee  Hills  are  the  Satpura 
Hills,  the  "scrubby,  tigerish  country,"  where  John 
Chinn,  the  Second  ("The  Tomb  of  his  Ancestors"),  the 
young  Subaltern  whom  the  Bhils  believed  to  be  the  rein- 
carnation of  his  own  grandfather,  brought  his  *'  heredi- 
tary influence"  to  bear  in  vaccinating  the  frightened 
community;  and  by  shooting  his  beautiful  "tiger  horse," 
put  a  stop  to  the  ghostly  night  rides  which  had  so 
terrorized  the  little  black  people  of  the  hills. 

Calcutta,  lying  on  the  "sullen,  un-English  stream^he 


Hooghly,"  was,  until  the  recentcEange  to  Delhi,  the 
capital  of  British  India.  To  enter  Calcutta  from 
Benares,  the  traveller  goes  into  Howrah  and  crosses  the 
Hooghly  River  with  its  wonderful  pontoon  bridge  and 
its  immense  and  varied  shipping.  The  city  of  Calcutta 
is  thoroughly  cosmopolitan,  all  nations  of  the  East  and 
West  mingling  in  her  streets.  The  traveller  will  find 
the  general  sights  of  interest  of  every  large  city,  fine 
public  buildings,  statues,  monuments,  and  parks;  while 
the  white,  spacious  mansions  of  the  Europeans  in  their 
beautiful  gardens  of  tropical  plants  facing  the  broad 
boulevards,  completely  overshadow  in  the  general  view 
the  narrow,  dirty  streets  of  native  Bengal,  and  give  the 
city  an  air  of  luxuriant  wealth  hard  to  equal  anywhere 
else  in  the  world.  This  impression  of  luxury  is  especially 
striking  at  sunset  when  the  richly  appointed  turn-outs 

[169] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

roll  down  the  Chowringhee  Road  and  along  the  wide 
Esplanade  by  the  river  where  the  military  band  plays, 
its  gayest  music  and  everybody  is  dressed  in  the  latest 
mode.  Three  or  four  miles  from  the  city  are  the  magnifi- 
cent botanical  gardens — the  finest  in  the  world — where, 
among  rare  and  wonderfully  beautiful  plants,  is  the 
famous  Great  Banyan  under  which  a  thousand  people 
might  easily  find  shelter.  The  story  of  Calcutta  is 
briefly  told  in  "The  Song  of  the  Cities " : 

Me,  the  Sea-captain  loved,  the  river  built; 

Wealth  sought  and  Kmgs  adventured  life  to  hold. 
Hail,  England !    I  am  Asia — Power  on  silt, 

Death  in  my  hands,  but  gold ! 

"The  God-forgotten  City  of  Calcutta"  is  what  Dun- 
can Parreimess,  Writer  to  the  Most  Honourable  the  East 
India  Company  ("The  Dream  of  Duncan  Parrenness"), 
calls  the  old  capital  when  he  writes  from  Calcutta  in  the 
days  of  Warren  Hastings: 

.  .  .  and  I  saw  how  the  one  year  that  I  had  lived  in  this  land 
had  so  burned  and  seared  my  mind  with  the  flames  of  a  thousand 
bad  passions  and  desires  that  I  had  aged  ten  months  for  each  one 
in  the  Devil's  school; 

and  goes  on  to  tell  of  his  distressing  vision  when  his 
"trust  in  man,"  his  "faith  in  women,"  and  his  "boy's 
soul  and  conscience"  were  lost  to  him  forever. 
At  Fultah  Fisher's  boarding-house  in  Calcutta  ("The 

[170] 


THE   OLDEST   LAND 

Ballad  of  Fisher's  Boarding-House")  Salem  Hardieker, 
the  "lean  Bostonian,"  because  of  the  lies  told  him  by  his 
Light-o'-Love,  Anne  of  Austria,  murdered  "Hans,  the 
Blue-eyed  Dane," 

Bull-throated,  bare  of  arm. 
Who  carried  on  his  hairy  chest 
The  maid  Ultruda's  charm — 
The  little  silver  crucifix 
That  keeps  a  man  from  harm. 

It  was  at  Calcutta  cantonments  that  the  Eurasian 
lady  ("Private  Learoyd's  Story")  coveted  the  fox 
terrier  belonging  to  the  Colonel's  wife  and  was  tricked  by 
Mulvaney,  Learoyd,  and  Ortheris,  who  won  the  money 
reward  and  at  the  same  time  saved  to  the  Colonel's  lady 
her  precious  "Rip." 


[171] 


VII 

ON    THE    ROAD    TO 
M  A  N  D  A  L  A  Y 


I 


VII 

On  the  Road  to  Mandalay 

T  is  of  Burma  and  his  Burma  sweetheart  that  the 
British  soldier  sings  in  "Mandalay," 

I've  a  neater,  sweeter  maiden 
In  a  cleaner,  greener  land. 

The  vast  mountain-ranges  and  dense  forests  of  north- 
western Burma  forbid  an  overland  entry  from  India;  but 
well-appointed  steamships  of  the  British  India  lines  run 
three  times  weekly  from  Calcutta  to  Rangoon,  a  distance 
of  seven  hundred  and  fifty-eight  miles.  One  of  these 
steamships  takes  the  traveller  speedily  and  comfortably 
across  the  Bay  of  Bengal  and  thirty  miles  up  the  Ran- 
goon River  to  Rangoon.  In  "The  Song  of  the  Cities," 
Rangoon  greets  England  with  the  words. 

Hail,  Mother.     Do  they  call  me  rich  in  trade? 

Little  care  I,  but  hear  the  shorn  priest  drone. 
And  watch  my  silk-clad  lovers,  man  by  maid. 

Laugh  'neath  my  Shwe  Dagon. 

The  object  of  chief  interest  in  Rangoon  is  the  famous 
Shwe  Dagon  Pagoda.     This  temple  or  rehquary  is  built 

[175] 


Kipling's  india 
over  eight  hairs  of  Buddha  and  relics  of  the  former 
Buddhas,  and  is  a  sohd  mass  of  pyramidal  masonry 
covered  with  gold  leaf  from  base  to  apex  and  rising  three 
hundred  and  seventy  feet  in  the  air  from  the  summit  of 
Thehngoottara  Hill.  Crowning  the  pagoda  is  a  golden 
umbrella  ringed  and  fringed  with  golden  bells  and  set 
with  diamonds,  emeralds,  and  rubies.  The  clappers  of 
the  bells  are  flattened  and  elongated  so  that  they  catch 
the  wind  and  keep  up  a  continuous  musical  tinkling, 
which  the  Nats,  the  guardian  angels  of  the  Burmese,  are 
supposed  to  hear  and  note  that  an  act  of  devotion  has 
been  performed.  At  the  base  of  the  pagoda  on  every 
side  are  chapels  containing  massive  carved  figures  of 
Buddha;  and  scattered  here  and  there  over  the  huge 
platform  on  which  the  pagoda  stands  are  small  pagodas 
of  richly  carved  wood,  or  glass  mosaic,  or  masonry 
covered  with  gold  leaf  like  the  Shwe  Dagon  itself;  stone 
altars  for  the  offerings  of  devotees;  stalls  for  the  sale  of 
religious  offerings;  bells  of  all  sizes;  and  everywhere, 
figures  of  creatures  half  lion  and  half  man.  These  lions 
are  symbolical  of  a  Burmese  legend  which  tells  of  a 
Burmese  prince  lost  in  the  jungle  and  mothered  by  a 
lioness  who,  when  her  foster  son  escaped  from  her  by 
swimming  across  a  river,  died  of  a  broken  heart.  So  the 
lions  are  a  memorial  of  the  loving  devotion  of  the  lion 
mother. 

To  the  traveller  it  is  a  surprise  to  find  in  the  streets  of 
Rangoon,  thronged  with  Americans,  Europeans,  Indians, 

[  176  ) 


■  I    '  Ml  *- 

It      tt 


c  ■ 


/" 


r 


,^'C3fc.wr-- 


-    *, 


A: 


Copyright  by  Underwood  ^:  Underwood,  N.  V. 

L  I  C  K  N  O  W  —  G  R  E  A  T  I M  A  M  B  A  R  A  H 

The  city  where  Kim  went  "up  to  the  Gates  of  Learning" 


CM|.jn;^lit  hy  11.  e.  \\  lute  euiiiii.my.  N.  V. 

HURMA  ELEPHANT 


Elephints  a-pilin  teak 

In  the  shidgy,  spudgy  creek. 
Where  the  silence  'ung  that  'eavy  you  was  'arf 
afraifl  to  speaki  — Maiidalaij 


ON    THE    ROAD    TO    MANDALAY 

Chinese,  and  Japanese,  so  few  Burmese.  In  their  big 
bazaars  and  at  Shwe  Dagon  Pagoda  they  are  seen  in 
their  true  element.  The  women  of  Burma  are  free  and 
respected  and  take  an  equal  part  with  the  men  in  all 
matters  of  life;  marriage  is  an  affair  of  the  heart;  children 
are  adored;  and  the  soil  is  lavish  in  its  fruitfulness.  It 
is  said  that  for  these  reasons  the  Burmese  are  the 
happiest  people  on  earth.  It  is  not  hard  to  believe  this 
when  one  hears  the  merry  talk  and  laughter  and  sees  the 
bright  faces  and  care-free,  indolent  air  of  these  little 
brown  people  who  are  decked  with  fragrant  flowers  and 
clad  in  silk  of  the  gayest  colours,  pink,  scarlet,  green, 
yellow,  and  magenta.  Their  flattened  features  show 
their  relation  to  the  Mongolian;  and  always  in  the 
mouth,  whether  of  man,  woman,  or  child,  you  see  the  big 
cheroot,  for  the  Burmese  baby  learns  to  smoke  when  it 
learns  to  walk. 

Almost  as  interesting  as  the  Shwe  Dagon  Pagoda — 
but  in  quite  a  different  way — are  the  timber  yards 
where  the  elephants  act  as  coolies : 

Elephints  a-pilin'  teak 

In  the  sludgy,  squdgy  creek. 

The  clear-eyed  intelligence  of  the  great  beasts  in  lifting 
and  stacking  in  regular  order  the  logs  of  teak,  one  log 
often  weighing  more  than  a  ton,  is  wonderful.  Watching 
the  "foreman  elephant"  pushing  the  log  into  its  exact 
place,  one  almost  believes  the  story  which  some  one  near- 

[  179  ] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

by  is  sure  to  tell,  that  he  frequently  squints  one  eye  to 
see  that  the  log  lies  true. 

Burma  has  a  railway  from  Rangoon  through  to  Man- 
dalay  and  beyond,  but  for  the  best  view  of  the  charming 
Irrawaddy  River,  the  traveller  should  go  from  Rangoon 
to  Mandalay  by  one  of  the  boats  of  the  Irrawaddy 
Flotilla  Company.  The  steamers  have  three  decks  and 
the  bow  of  the  second  deck  is  reserved  for  Europeans. 
Here  the  traveller  may  have  his  dining-table  set,  and 
from  a  steamer  chair  watch  in  perfect  comfort  the  sur- 
rounding scenes.  The  odd  river  craft  first  attract  the 
attention.  Among  steam  tugs,  rafts,  barges,  house- 
boats, and  fishing  boats,  is  seen  the  peculiarly  curved 
Burmese  boat  guided  by  an  oarsman  who  sits  in  an 
elaborately  carved  chair  high  above  the  stern;  and 
speeding  before  the  wind  are  the  little  peingaws  carrying 
sails  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  long.  The  low-lying 
country  of  the  Irrawaddy  Estuary  is  soon  left  behind, 
and  now  the  hills  and  woods  give  to  the  scene  a  constant 
variety  of  interest  and  delight.  All  along  the  way,  on 
every  rise  of  ground,  stand  the  monasteries  of  the  yellow- 
robed  Buddhist  monks  or  dozens  of  white  pagodas  with 
gilded  peaks  and  tinkling  bells.  It  is  considered  an  act 
of  great  merit  to  build  a  pagoda  of  whatever  size  or 
material;  hence  the  enormous  number  throughout 
Burma.  Here  and  there  is  a  town  of  considerable  size 
or  a  little  village  of  quaint  bamboo  houses  on  stilts, 
where  the  rice  fields  almost  dazzle  with  their  vivid  green 
and  where  giant  palm  trees  reach  upward  toward  the 

[  180  ] 


BENARES 

Ti)  Kim's  thinking  "a  petuliarry  filthy  city' 


Copyright  by  H.  C.  White  Company,  N.  Y. 

BY   THE  OLD   MOULMEIX 
PAGODA  " 


Copyright  by  H.  C.  White  Company,  X.  Y. 

THE  TIXKLY  TEMPLE 
BELLS' 


'For  the  temple-lxlls  are  callin",  an'  it's  then 

that  I  would  be — 
By  the  old  Moulmein  Pagoda,  looking  lazy  a1 
the  sea." 

— Mandalay 


ON   THE   ROAD   TO   MANDALAY 

sun.  Then  the  forest  trees  crowd  close  to  the  edge  of 
the  stream;  bright-plumaged  birds  flutter  among  the 
branches;  green  monkeys  gambol  on  the  river  banks; 
and  farther  back  in  the  quiet  depths  the  wild  elephant, 
the  rhinoceros,  and  the  tiger  have  their  haunts.  A 
feature  of  peculiar  charm  in  the  scenery  of  the  Irra- 
waddy  is  the  frequent  occurrence  of  flowering  trees, 
whose  boughs,  laden  with  blossoms  or  leaves  of  crimson 
or  scarlet  or  gold,  shine  through  the  rich  green  of  the 
woodland  with  splendid  effect. 

In  *'The  Taking  of  Lungtungpen'*  (Plain  Tales  from 
the  Hills),  Mulvaney,  with  Lieutenant  Brazenose  and  his 
men,  stripped  and  swam  the  Irrawaddy  River  that  dark 
night  when,  not  having  time  to  dress  again,  they 
captured  the  town  of  Lungtungpen  just  as  they  were — 
"nakid  as  Vanus" — and  so  easily  that  the  Burmese 
headman  asked  the  Interpreter,  *'Av  the  English  fight 
like  that  wid  their  clo'es  off,  what  in  the  wurruld  do 
they  do  wid  their  clo'es  on.?"  Farther  up  the  river  at 
Bhamo  was  the  cozy  little  home  of  "Georgie  Porgie" 
{Life's  Handicap)  and  "Georgina,"  his  Burmese  sweet- 
heart who  was 

"in  every  way  as  sweet  and  merry  and  honest  and  winning  a  little 
woman  as  the  most  exacting  of  bachelors  could  have  desired." 

It  was  from  Bhamo  that  Georgina  followed  Georgie 
Porgie  in  the  long  and  faithful  search  which  ended  so 
bitterly  for  her. 

[  183] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

The  Bride  and  the  Bridegroom  came  out  into  the  veranda  after 
dinner,  in  order  that  the  smoke  of  Georgie  Porgie's  cheroot  might 
not  hang  in  the  new  drawing-room  curtains.  "  What  is  that  noise 
down  there?"  said  the  Bride.     Both  hstened. 

"Oh,"  said  Georgie  Porgie,  "I  suppose  some  brute  of  a  hillman 
has  been  beating  his  wife." 

But  it  was  Georgina,  crying,  all  by  herself,  down  the  hillside, 
among  the  stones  of  the  water-course  where  the  washermen  wash 
the  clothes. 

Somewhere  here  in  the  wilds  of  Upper  Burma  lies  the 
rebel  village  of  "  Pabengmay  "  ("  The  Grace  of  the  Hun- 
dred Head")  where  Subadar  Prag  Tewarri,  of  the  First 
Shikaris,  so  terribly  avenged  the  murder  of  his  beloved 
leader  and  piled  on  the  grave  of  the  young  Subaltern  the 
heads  of  a  hundred  of  his  enemies,  to  teach  the  Burmans 
**the  price  of  a  white  man  slain." 

They  made  a  pile  of  their  trophies 

High  as  a  tall  man's  chin, 
Head  upon  head  distorted. 

Clinched  in  a  sightless  grin, 
Anger  and  pain  and  terror 

Writ  on  the  smoke-scorched  skin. 

•  •  •  •  • 

Then  a  silence  came  to  the  river, 

A  hush  fell  over  the  shore, 
And  Bohs  that  were  brave  departed, 

And  Sniders  squibbed  no  more; 

For  the  Burman  said 

That  a  kullah's  head 
Must  be  paid  for  with  heads  five  score. 
[  184  ] 


Cop3  ngiit  Uy  L'naerwood  Ot  Lndci.suud,  T-i.  V. 


THE  IRRAWADDY  RIVER 


In  The  Taking  of  Lungtungpen  (Plain  Tales 
from  the  Hills),  Alulvaney  with  Lieutenant 
Brazcnoso  and  lii.s  men,  stripped  and  swam  the 
Irrawaddy  River  that  dark  night  when,  not 
having  time  to  dress  again,  they  captured  the 
town  of  Lungtungpen  just  as  they  were — "nakid 
as  Vanus."  Farther  up  the  river  at  Bhamo  was 
the  cozy  Uttie  home  of  "Georgie  Porgie"  {Life's 
Handicap)  and  "(ieorgina,"  his  Burmese  sweet- 
heart 


ON   THE   ROAD   TO   MANDALAY 

There's  a  widow  in  sleepy  Chester 

Who  weeps  for  her  only  son; 
There's  a  grave  on  the  Pabeng  River, 

A  grave  that  the  Burmans  shun. 
And  there's  Subudar  Prag  Teivarri 

Who  tells  how  the  work  was  done. 

Off  to  the  west  lies  the  Chindwin  River,  where  took 

place  the  scrimmages  between  the  Burman  Boh  Da 

Thone, 

"Erst  a  pretender  to  Thebaw's  Throne" 

C*The  Ballad  of  Boh  Da  Thone"),  and  the  dauntless 
Captain  O'Neil,  with  his  "Black  Tyrone"  regiment, 

the  choicest  collection  of  unmitigated  blackguards,  dog-stealers, 
robbers  of  hen-roosts,  assaulters  of  innocent  citizens,  and  reck- 
lessly daring  heroes  in  the  Army  List. 

And  there  is  the  cart  road  of  the  Government  Bullock 
Train  where,  beneath  the  weighty  bulk  of  Babu  Ha- 
rendra  Mukerji,  the  Boh  ended  his  life  in  undignified 
fashion  and  forfeited  his  head  which  later  so  gruesomely 
interrupted  Captain  O'Neil's  honeymoon: 

Open-eyed,  open-mouthed,  on  the  napery's  snow, 
With  a  crash  and  a  thud,  rolled — the  Head  of  the  Boh ! 
And  gummed  to  the  scalp  was  a  letter  which  ran : 

In  Fielding  Force  Service, 

Encampment, 
10th  Jan. 

Dear  Sir, — I  have  honour  to  send,  as  you  said. 

For  final  approval  (see  under)  Boh's  Head; 

[187] 


KIPLING  S   INDIA 

Was  took  by  myself  in  most  bloody  affair. 
By  High  Education  brought  pressure  to  bear. 

Now  violate  Liberty,  time  being  bad. 

To  mail  V.  P.  P.  (rupees  hundred).     Please  add 

Whatever  Your  Honour  can  pass.     Price  of  Blood 
Much  cheap  at  one  hundred,  and  children  want  food. 

So  trusting  Your  Honour  will  somewhat  retain 
True  love  and  affection  for  Govt.  Bullock  Train, 

And  show  awful  kindness  to  satisfy  me, 

I  am, 

Graceful  Master, 
Your 

H.  Mukerji. 

It  was  way  over  there  in  the  East  near  the  Shan  States 
that  Hicksey  of  the  Police  ("A  Conference  of  the 
Powers")  captured  Boh  Naghee,  the  Burmese  robber 
chief,  by  taking  a  flying  leap  on  his  head  while  he  lay  in 
bed  under  a  mosquito  net;  and  the  Dacoit  chased  by  the 
Infant,  fell  over  the  palisades  on  top  of  Dennis,  the 
frightened  and  bewildered  Civil  Officer;  and  the  whole 
affair  ended  with  a  little  picnic  of  sandwiches. 

The  first  glance  at  the  city  of  Mandalay,  laid  out  like 
the  squares  of  a  checker  board,  with  good  roads,  good 
drainage,  street  lamps,  and  efficient  police  protection, 
makes  one  feel  that  he  has  reached  a  town  of  the  Ameri- 

[188] 


i   udcrwooa  «M  L  nderwooil.  N.  \'. 

MAxXDALA  V  — THE    'FOLR   HUNDRED   AND   FIFTY 

P ACQ DAS" 


Here  on  Mandalay  Hill  sat  the  British  Soldier 
and  his  httle  Burma  girl,  listening  to  the  "East 
a-callin'"  and  the  "tinkly  temple  bells" 

— Mandalay 


ON   THE   ROAD   TO   MANDALAY 

can  western  country,  but  the  little  bamboo  houses  and 
the  ever-present  pagodas  soon  dispel  the  illusion.  In 
the  very  centre  of  the  city  stands  the  walled  town  which 
was  once  the  capital  of  the  weak  King  Thebaw  and  his 
cruel  queen,  Supaiyah  Lat,  who,  to  insure  prosperity  to 
the  city  in  its  building,  and  afterward  to  protect  it  from 
the  British,  caused  scores  of  her  subjects  to  be  buried 
alive  beneath  the  walls.  Many  years  ago  the  Burmese 
monarch  was  deposed  and  sent  into  exile  in  India,  and 
his  city  serves  now  as  a  fort  of  the  British  Army.  But 
the  gilded  palaces  of  the  king  and  his  four  queens  still 
stand  and  the  magnificent  audience  chambers  are  but 
little  changed.  Surrounding  the  royal  city  is  a  moat 
one  hundred  feet  wide  filled  with  water  where  hundreds 
of  pink  and  white  lotus  lilies  give  a  captivating  pictur- 
esqueness  to  the  scene.  One  of  the  *'  sights  "  of  Manda- 
lay  is  the  series  of  pagodas  called  the  "Four  Hundred 
and  Fifty  Pagodas,"  for  under  each  pagoda  rests  a 
marble  slab  engraved  with  one  of  the  four  hundred  and 
fifty  commandments  of  the  Buddhist  law.  High  above 
Mandalay,  and  almost  surrounding  it,  rise  the  ruby 
mine  mountains,  and  within  the  city  itself  is  Mandalay 
Hill  covered  with  countless  pagodas.  From  this  hill  you 
can  obtain  a  splendid  view  of  the  town  and  the  surround- 
ing country. 

The  journey  is  ended.  The  mist  is  on  the  rice  fields 
and  the  sun  is  dropping  slow.  Here  on  Mandalay  Hill 
under  the  palm-trees  sit  the  British  Soldier  and  his  little 

[191] 


Kipling's  india 
Burma  girl,  gazing  dreamily  out  over  the  river,  and 
listening  to  the  "tinkly  temple  bells." 

If  you've  'eard  the  East  a-callin',  you  won't  never  'eed  naught  else. 

No!  you  won't  'eed  nothin'  else 

But  them  spicy  garlic  smells. 

An'  the  sunshine  an'  the  palm-trees  an'  the  tinkly  temple-bells; 

On  the  Road  to  Mandalay, 

Where  the  old  Flotilla  lay; 

Can't  you  'ear  their  paddles  chunkin'  from  Rangoon  to  Mandalay, 

On  the  Road  to  Mandalay, 

Where  the  flyin '-fishes  play, 

An'  the  dawn  comes  up  like  thunder  outer  China  'crost  the  Bay ! 


INDEX 


INDEX 


A^bazai,  111,  121. 
Abdul  Gafur,  166. 
Abd-ur-Rahman,  118. 
Aberyswith,  Delilah,  30,  33. 
Abu,  Mount,  81. 
Afghanistan,  89,  90,  93,  108. 


"Army  Headquarters,"  18,  31. 
"Arrest     of     Lieutenant     Go- 

Hghtly,  The,"  150. 
Arti-Goth,  123. 
Art  Museum,  Lahore,  135. 
Assam,  166. 


Afghans,  89,  94,  98,  102,  107,     Assigned    British    District    of 


108,  113,  114,  117. 
Agra,  152. 

Agrippina,  Cornelia,  21. 
Ajmir,  77,  82. 
Akbar,  Emperor,  77,  135. 
Akbar's  Fort,  132. 
Ala-ud-din-Khilji,  77. 
Allardyce,  Miss,  108. 
Amara,  Fort,  132,  143,  144. 
Amdheran,  103. 
Ameera,  143. 

Amir  of  Afghanistan,  86, 89, 118. 
Amritsar,  149,  150. 
Anarkali,  132. 
AnarkaH's  Tomb,  132. 
Angel     of     the     Resurrection, 

Cawnpore,  158. 
Annandale,  Simla,  17,  26. 
Anne  of  Austria,  171. 
Annieanlouise,  107. 
"An  Old  Song,"  22,  48. 
Apollo  Bunder,  Bombay,  7. 
"Arithmetic  on  the  Frontier," 

113,  114. 


Baluchistan,  122,  123. 
"As  the  Bell  Clinks,"  22. 
Athu-a,  61,  62. 
"At  Howh  Thana,"  73,  74. 
"At  the  End  of  the  Passage,"  73. 
"At  the  Pit's  Mouth,"  25,  26, 

47. 
Aurungabadis,  102. 
Aurungzebe,  Mosque  of,  162. 

"Baa  Baa,  Black  Sheep,"  7. 

Bagal-Deasin,  103. 

Bagi,  61. 

"Ballade  of  Jakko  Hill,  A,"  43. 

"Ballad    of    Boh    Da    Thone, 

The,"  187,  188. 
"Ballad  of  Burial,  A,"  48. 
"Ballad    of    East    and    West, 

The,"  108. 
"Ballad  of  Fisher's  Boarding- 

House,  The,"  170,  171. 
"Ballad    of    the    King's    Jest, 

The,"  117,  118,  121. 
Baluchistan,  122,  123. 


[195] 


INDEX 


Bangs,  General,  113. 
Barrett,  Jack,  122. 
Barr-Saggott,  26. 
Bazaar,  Simla,  16,  33. 
Beighton,  Kitty,  26. 
Benares,  162  to  166,  169. 
Bengal,  166  to  171. 
Bengal,  Bay  of,  161,  175. 
Benmore,  51,  62. 
Bent,  Mrs.,  40. 
"Beyond  the  Pale,"  144. 
Bhamo,  183. 
Bhils,  The,  169. 


Bremmil,  30,  34. 
Bremmil,  Mrs.  30,  34. 
"Bridge   Builders,   The,"   161, 

162. 
Bridge  of  Boats,  Ravi  River, 

The,  144. 
British  Soldier,  The,  191. 
"Brushwood  Boy,  The,"   104, 

107. 
"Bubbling  Well  Road,"  123. 
Buddha,  162,  176. 
Buldoo,  102. 
Burma,  175  to  192. 


"  Bisara  of  Pooree,  The,"  39,  40,  Burma  Girl,  192. 

52.  Burmese  Boats,  The,  180. 

Bisesa,  144.  Burmese,  The,  179. 

Black  Curse  of  Shielygh,  The,  Buzgago,  Mrs.,  44. 


151. 
"Black  Jack,"  144,  147. 
Black   Tyrone,    The,    97,    101, 

147,  187. 
Blessington  Lower  Road,  Simla, 

33. 
Blind  Mullah  of  Jagai,  112. 
Boh  Da  Thone,  187,  188. 
"Boh  Da  Thone,  The  Ballad 

of,"  187,  188. 
Boh  Naghee,  188. 
Bombay,  5  to  8,  11,  157. 
Bombay  Harbour,  5,  6. 
Bonair,  111. 


"By  Word  of  Mouth,"  61,  131. 

Calcutta,  127,  166,  169,  to  175. 
Carnehan,  Peachey,  82,  85,  86, 

89,  90,  93. 
Castries,  Miss,  43. 
Cawnpore,  156,  158. 
Central  Museum  and  School  of 

Art,  Lahore,  132. 
Cachuran,  123. 
Chandni  Chouk,  155. 
Chaprassis,  Government,  Simla, 

17. 
Chindwin  River,  187. 
Chini,  61. 


Boondi  Queen,  The,  81. 

Botanical    Gardens,    Calcutta,  Chinn,  John,  the  Second,  169. 

170.  Chisane,  Alice,  25,  158. 

Brandis,  Lieutenant,  108.  Chitor,  74,  77,  78. 

Brazenose,  Lieutenant,  183.  Chota  Simla,  51. 

"Breaker  of  Hearts,"  149.  .Chowringhee  Road,  170. 

[196] 


INDEX 

Christ  Church,  Simla,  36.  Dirkovitch,  94. 

Churton,  39.  "Divided  Destinies,"  34. 

Chutter  Munzil,  157.  Dodd,  Tommy,  112. 

"City  of  Dreadful  Night,  The,"  Donga  Pa,  61,  62. 

135,  136.  Doola,  Namgay,  62,  65. 

Club,  Simla,  39.  Doolan,  Tim,  65. 

Club  House,  Lucknow,  157.  Dora,  40. 

"Code  of  Morals,  A,"  113.  Dormer,  Private,  29. 

Colonel's  Son,  108.  "Dormice,  The,"  131. 

Combermere  Bridge,  Simla,  33,  "Dowd,  The,"  40,  47. 

34.  Dravot,  Daniel,  82,  85,  86,  89, 

Conference  of  the  Powers,  A,  90,  93. 

188.  "Dray  Wara  Yow  Dee,"  121. 

"Consequences,"  29,  30.  "Dream  of  Duncan  Parrenness, 

"Coppy,"  108.  The,"  170. 

Corbyn,  Captain,  7.  "Drums  of  the  Fore  and  Aft, 

Correspondent,  The  Special,  82,  The,"  114,  117. 

85,  101,  131,  143,  144,  147,  Dumoise,  61,  131. 

148.  Dumoise,  Mrs.,  61. 

Cottar,  George,  104,  107.  Duncan,  103. 

Courtship  of  Dinah  Shadd,  The,  Durga  Dass,  82. 

151.  "Durro  Muts,"  8. 
Cow's  Mouth,  The,  74. 

Crandall,  Minor,  103.  "East  and   West,  The  Ballad 

Creighton  Sahib,  151.  of,"  108. 

"  Cruikna-bulleen,"   101.  East  Indian  Railway,  151. 

" Cupid's  Arrows,"  26.  "Education     of     Otis     Yeere, 

The,"  40,  47. 

Dalhousle,  150.  Edwardes  Gate,  Peshawur,  97. 

"Dancing  Master,  The,"  47.  "Egan,  Horse,"  107. 

Daoud  Shah,  121.  Elephant  Coolies,  179. 

Dearsley,  165.  Elephanta  Island,  7. 

Delhi,  152  to  156,  157,  169.  Elysium  Hill,  Simla,  17,  33. 

"Delilah,"  30,  33.  English   Cemetery,   Simla,   47. 

Dennis,  188.  48. 

Deodars,  Himalayan,  16,  21.  Ephraim,  128. 

"Diamonds  and  Pearls,"  98.  Esplanade,  Calcutta,  170. 

[  197  ] 


INDEX 

Fagoo  Hills,  58.  Golightly,  Lieutenant,  150. 

Fatima,  104.  Grady,  Dan,  107. 

Findlayson,  161,  162.  Grand  Trunk  Road,  127,  128. 

Fisher,  Fultah,  170.  Granth,  The,  150. 

"Fisher's  Boarding-House,  The  "Grave  of  the  Hundred  Head, 

Ballad  of,"  170,  171.  The,"  184. 

Fleete,  131.  '  Great  Banyan,  Calcutta,  170. 

"Ford  o'  Kabul  River,"  121.  Great  Imambarah,  The,  157. 

"For  to  Admire,"  5.  Great  Mosque,  Delhi,  155. 

"Foundry,  The,"  40.  Greenhow  Hill,  102. 

Four  Hundred  and  Fifty  Pa-  Gulla  Kutta  Mulla,  97. 

godas,  191.  Gunnaur,  74,  77,  78. 

"From  the  Dusk  to  the  Dawn,"  Gunne,  Ulysses,  30,  33. 

127. 

Hamilton's,  Simla,  34. 

Gadsby,  Captain,  17,  18,  57,  58,  Hannasyde,  25,  157,  158. 

103,  104.  Hans,  the  Blue-Eyed  Dane,  171. 

Gadsby,  Mrs.,  57,  104.  Hanuman,  131. 

Ganges  River,  The,  161,  162.  Hardieker,  Salem,  171. 

"Gardenof  Eden,  The,"57,  58.  Harendra  Mukerji,  Babu,  187. 

"Garm,"  147,  148.  Hauksbee,  Mrs.,  29,  30,  34,  40, 

"Garm— A  Hostage,"  147,  148.  43,  47. 

Garo  Hills,  166.  Haverley,  Miss,  29. 

"  Gate  of  the  Hundred  Sorrows,  Hawley  Boy,  The,  47. 

The,"  136.  "Head  of  the  District,  The," 

"Gemini,"  81.  112. 

"Gentlemen  Rankers,"  97.  Helanthami  Cantonment,   102. 

"Georgie  Porgie,"  183,  184.  Herriott,  Harriet,  58. 

"Georgina,"  183,  184.  Hetherlegh,  Doctor,  33,  39. 

*•  Germ-Destroyer,  A,"  26,  29.  Hicksey  of  the  Police,  188. 

Ghauts,  Western,  6.  "Hill  of  Illusion,  The,"  44. 

Ghurkas,  The,  17.  "Himalayan,"  73. 

Gisborne    of    the    Woods    and  Himalayan-Thibet  Road,  The, 

Forests,  166.  16,  51,  57. 

Gokral-Seetarun,  74.  Himalayas,  The,  16,  57  to  65, 

Golden  Temple,  Amritsar,  149,  93. 

150.  Hindu  Kush  Mountains,  93. 

[198] 


INDEX 


"His  Private  Honour,"  147. 
Holden,  John,  143. 
Hollis,  Miss,  40,  52. 
Hooghly  River,  169. 
Howrah,  169. 
Hummil,  73. 
Hurnai,  122. 
Hurree  Babu,  58,  151. 
Hurrum  Hills,  113. 


Jut,  The,  111. 
Jutogh  Hill,  17. 

Kabul,  89,  90. 
Kabul  River,  121. 
Kafiristan,  85,  90,  93. 
Kafirs,  93. 
Kalabagh,  103. 
Kala  Nag,  166. 
Kalka,  12,  22. 
Kamal,  108. 
Kashi  Bridge,  161. 
Kashmir  Gate,  Delhi,  155. 
Kashmir  Serai,  Lahore,  85,  139. 
Keith-Wessington,    Agnes,    33, 

34,  35,  47. 
Khem  Singh,  143. 


Imray,  131. 

"Incarnation  of  Krishna  Mul- 

vaney,  The,"  165. 
Indian  Ocean,  The,  5. 
"In  Error,"  43. 
"Infant,  The,"  188. 
"In  the  House  of  Suddhoo,'*  97. 
Irrawaddy    Flotilla    Company,     Khoda  Dad  Klian,  113. 

The,  180.  Khusru  Hills,  112. 

Irrawaddy  River,  The,  180  to     Khusru  Kheyl,  112. 

188.  Khyber  Pass,  89,  90,  117. 

Isser  Jang,  82.  Khye-IQieen-Malot,  Uprising, 

Jagai,  112,  117.  103. 

Jagdallak,  90.  Khyraghaut,  22. 

Jakin,  114,  117.  "Kidnapped,"  43. 

Jakko  Hill,  16,  17,  36,  43,  44,     Kim,  21,  35,  43,  52,  58, 127, 135, 

47,  52.  139,  148,  149,  151,  152,  156, 

"Jakko  Hill,  A  Ballade  of,"  43.         157,  162,  16^.   ,  f 

Jakko  Road,  16,  44,  47.  "^'*     "     -  -~      -      -      - 

Jama  Masjid,  155. 
Jehangir,  135. 
Jehan,  Shah,  152. 
Jenkins,  Aliasuerus,  18,  21. 
"Jews  in  Shushan,"  128. 
Jones,  113. 

Jukes,  Morrowbie,  70. 
Jumrood,  Fort,  108,  118. 


"Kim,"^l,  35,  43,  52,  .53,  58, 
61,  127,  135,  139,  l48,  149, 
151,  152,  156,  157,  162,  165. 

"King's  Jest,  The  BaUad  of 
the,"  117,  118,  121. 

Kipling,  Lockwood,  135. 

Kodru,  62. 

Koh-i-noor  Diamond,  149. 

Kotgarh,  58,  61. 

[  199  ] 


INDEX 


Kot-Kumharsen,  112. 

Krishna,  166. 

Kulu,  151. 

Kunwar,  MaharaJ,  74,  77. 

Kurram  Valley,  113. 

Kutb  Minar,  155. 

Lahore,  85,  132  to  149. 
Lahore  Gate,  Delhi,  155. 


Madras  Presidency,  140. 
Mafflin,  Captain,  36,  104. 
Mahbub  Ali,  21,  52,  117,  118, 

139. 
Malabar  Hill,  6. 
Mallowe,  :Mrs.,  40,  47. 
Mall,  Simla,  16,  19,  22,  35,  36, 

39,  40. 
Malwa,  81. 


Lahore  Gate,  Delhi  Fort,  155.  Mandalay,  175,  180,  188. 

Lalun  of  Delhi,  156.  Mandalay  Hill,  191. 

Lalun  of  Lahore,  140,  143.  "Man,  The,"  25,  26. 

Lama,  The,  58,  127,  135,  139,  Mannering,  Kitty,  34,  47. 


148,  149,  151,  162. 

"Lament  of  the  Border  Cattle- 
Thief,  The,"  111. 

Landys-Haggert,  Mrs.,  25,  157, 
158. 

"La  Nuit  Blanche,"  44. 

Larkyn,  Mrs.,  39. 

"Last  Suttee,  The,"  81. 


"Man's  Wife,  The,"  25,  26,  47. 
"Man  Who  Was,  The,"  93,  94. 
"Man  Who  Would  Be  King, 

The,"  82,  85,  86,  89,  90,  93. 
"Mark  of  the  Beast,  The,"  131. 
Martyn,  William,  139,  140,  149. 
Marwar  Junction,  82. 
Marzun-Katai,  107. 


Learoyd,  John,  101, 102, 144,171.     Matun,  61. 


"L 'Envoi,"  104. 
Lew,  114,  117. 
Limmason,  Austin,  93,  94. 
Lispeth,  61. 
"Lispeth,"  61. 
Little  Malikand,  121. 
"Lost  Legion,  The,"  94,  97. 
"Love-o '-Women,"  97,  98. 
"Lover's  Litany,  The,"  51. 
Lower  Bazaar,  The,  Simla,  52. 
Lucknow,  156  to  158. 
Lurgan's  Shop,  Simla,  35,  43. 


Mellish,  26. 

MelHshe,  26. 

Meridki,  61,  131. 

Mewar,  77. 

Mhow,  77,  82. 

Mian  Mir,  147. 

Michni,  113. 

Miriam,  128. 

Misquitta,  Gabral,  136. 

"Miss  Youghal's  Sais,"  36,  39, 

52. 
Mohorrum,  143,  157. 


Mooltan,  113. 
'Madness  of  Private  Ortheris,     Moriarty,  43. 
The,"  147.  Mosque  of  Aurungzebe,  162. 

[200] 


INDEX 

Mosque  of  Wazir  Khan,   135,  "On  the  City  Wall,"  132,  140, 

136.  143. 

Motee  Bazaar,  139.  "On  the   Strength   of  a  Like- 
"  Mother  Gunga,"  161,  162.  ness,"  25,  157. 

Mountain  of  the  Council  of  the  Ortheris,  Stanley,  101, 102, 144, 

Gods,  61.  147,  148,  171. 

Mulcahy,  107,  108.  "Other  Man,  The,"  25,  35. 

Mulla  of  Jagai,  112.  Ouless-  Lieutenant,  147. 
Muller,  169. 

Mullins,  Sergeant,  144.  Pabengmay,  184. 

Mulvaney,  Terence,  97,  98,  101,  Pabeng  River,  187. 

102,  144,  147,  151,  152,  161,  Pack,  38,  40,  52. 

165,  166,  171,  183.  Padmini,  Queen,  77. 

"Mutiny    of    the    Mavericks,  Palace  Fort,  Delhi,  The,  152. 

The,"  107,  108.  Paniput,  155. 

Muttianee  Pass,  61.  Pansay,  Jack,   33,  34,  35,  39, 
"My  Lord,  the  Elephant,"  158,        44. 


161. 
"My  Rival,"  36. 
Naini  Tal,  58. 
Namgay  Doola,  62,  65. 
Nana  Doondoo  Panth,  158. 
Nasirabad,  82. 
Nats,  The,  176. 
"Naulahka,  The,"  74,  77. 
New  Chitor,  78. 
Nicholson,    Brigadier-General 

John,  155. 
Northwestern  Railway,  151. 
Nuddea,  Bengal,  61. 

Observatory  Hill,  Simla,  17. 
O'Hara,  Sergeant,  144. 
"Oldest  Land,  The,"  127. 
O'Neil,  Captain,  101,  187. 
"On  Greenhow  Hill,"  102. 
"Only  a  Subaltern,"  29. 


Parrenness,  Duncan,  170. 

Parsi  Cemetery,  6. 

Parsis,  6,  7. 

Pathankote,  150. 

Pathans,  89,  94,  98,  102,  107, 

108,  113,  114,  117. 
Peacock  Throne,  155. 
Pearl  Mosque,  152. 
Pearson,  Fort,  103. 
Peingaws,  180. 
Peshawur,  89,  90,  94,  97,  98, 

112,  117,  127. 
Peythroppe,  43. 
"Phantom     'Rickshaw,    The," 

33,  34,  35,  39,  44,  47. 
Pink  Hussars,  103,  104. 
Platte,  Subaltern,  39. 
"Plea   of   the   Simla   Dancers, 

The,"  51. 
Pluffles,  Lieutenant,  40. 

[201  ] 


INDEX 

"Pool   of   Immortality,   The,"  Residency,  The,  156. 

149.  Ressaldar,  The,  127. 

"Poor  Dear  Mamma,"  17.  "Return  of  Imray,  The,"  131. 

Populzai,  156.  'Rickshaw    Jhampanis,    Simla, 
"Possibilities,"  48,  52.  15,  52,  53. 

Post  Office,  Simla,  25.  'Rickshaws,  Simla,  15. 

Prag    Tewarri,    Subadar,    184,  "Ridge,  The,"  Simla,  33. 

187.  Rip,  171. 

Prithi-Devi,  Temple  of,  165.  River  of  the  Arrow,  The,  135, 
Private  Audience  Hall,  Delhi,         151. 

152.  "Route  Marchin',"  128. 

"Private  Learoyd's  Story,"  171.  "Rukh,  The,"  169. 
Prospect  Hill,  Simla,  17. 

Public   Audience   Hall,    Delhi,  Saharanpur,  151. 

152,  155.  "Sahib's  War,  A,"  7. 

Public  Library,  Lucknow,  157.  St.  Xavier's,  152. 

Public  Works  Office,  Simla,  25.  Satpura  Hills,  169. 

"Punch  Baba,"  7.  Schreiderling,  Mrs.,  25,  35. 

Punjab  Express,  11.  Scindia,  155,  156. 

Punjab  University,  Lahore,  132.  Scott  of  the  Irrigation  Depart- 
ment, 139,  140. 

"Queen's  Praying,  The,"  165.  "Second-Rate  Woman,  A,"  40. 

"Queen's  Toast,  The,"  94.  Seonee  Hills,  166,  169. 

Quetta,  122,  123.  Sergeant  of  the  Tyrone,  101. 

Shadd,  151. 

Railway  Coach,  11,  12.  Shadd,  Dinah,  97,  151. 

Railway  Station,  Lahore,  148.  Shaifazehat,  44. 

Rajputana,  69  to  85.  Shamlegh,  58,  61. 

Ram  Dass,  61.  Shan  States,  188. 

Rangoon,  175  to  180.  Sheehy,  Mother,  151. 

Rangoon  River,  175.  Shere  Khan,  166. 

Ranjit  Singh,  149.  Shwe  Dagon  Pagoda,  175,  176, 
Ravi  River,  144.  179. 

"Red  Bull  on  a  Green  Field,"  Sikhs,  The,  149. 

135.  "Silver  Man,  The,"  131. 

Reiver,  Mrs.,  40,  43.  "Silver's  Theatre,"  98,  101. 

"Rescue  of  Pluffles,  The,"  40.  Simla,  11, 12  to  53, 122. 

[202] 


INDEX 

Solon,  22.  "Through  the  Fire,"  61,  62. 

"Song  of  the  Cities,  The,"  5,  Tietjens,  131. 

170,  175.  Tods,  29. 

Special  Correspondent,  The,  82,  "  Tod 's  Amendment,"  29. 

85, 101, 131, 143, 144, 147,148.  "Tomb  of  His  Ancestors,  The," 

Stalky,  103.  169. 

"Stalky  &  Co.,"  103.  Tonga  Office,  Simla,  25. 

Stewards,  The,  140.  Tonga  Road,  Kalka  to  Simla, 

"Story  of  Uriah,  The,"  122.  12,  21,  22,  25,  44. 

"Strange   Ride   of    Morrowbie  Toomai,  166. 

Jukes,  The,"  70,  73.  Tower  of  Victory,  The,  78. 

Strickland,  36,  39,  52,  131.  "Towers  of  Silence,  The,"  7. 

Suddhoo,  97.  Town  Hall,  Simla,  16,  43,  52. 

Suddhoo's  Son,  97.  Trejago,  144. 

Suket  Singh,  62.  Trig,  Lord  Benira,  102. 

Summer  Hill,  Simla,  17,  30.  "Truce  of  the  Bear,  The,"  61. 
Supaiyah  Lat,  Queen,  191. 

"  Swelling  of  Jordan,  The,"  104.  Udaipur,  77. 

Udai  Singh,  Maharana,  77. 

Tabaqui,  166.  Ultruda,  171. 

Taj  Mahal,  152.  Umballa,  12,  139. 

"Taking       of       Lungtungpen,  TJmr  Singh,  7. 

The,"  183.  Uttmanzai,  103. 
Tallantire,  113. 

Tangi  Pass,  161.  Venner,  TiUie,  35. 

Tara  Devi,  22,  44.  Venus  Annodomini,  18. 

Tarrion,  30.  "Very  Young  Gayerson,"  18. 

Tarvin,  Nick,  74,  78.  Viceregal  Lodge,  17,  26. 

Temple  of  the  Tirthankers,  162.  Victoria  Railway  Station,  6. 

"Tents  of  Kedar,  The,"  58.  Vishnu,  162. 

"Tertiam  Quid,  The,"  25,  26,  Vixen,  148. 

47,  51. 

Thebaw,  King,  187,  191.  Wali      Dad     of     Afghanistan, 

"Three  and— an  Extra,"  30.  118. 

Threegan,  Minnie,  17,  36.  Wali  Dad  of  Lahore,  143. 

"Three  Musketeers,  The,"  101,  Wardle,  Mr.,  123. 

102.  "Watches  of  the  Night,"  39. 

[203] 


INDEX 

Way  to  Simla,  11.  Woman  of  Shamlegh,  The,  61. 

Wazir  Khan  Mosque,  135,  136.  "Wonder,"  26,  29. 

"Wee  WilHe  Winkie,"  108.  "World  Without,  The,"  18. 

Western  Ghauts,  6.  Wressley  of  the  Foreign  OflSce, 

White  Hussars,  94.  35. 

"William  the  Conqueror,"  139,  Yardley-Orde,  112. 

140,  149.  Yeere,  Otis,  40,  47. 

"With  Any  Amazement,"  36.  Youghal,  Miss,  52. 

"Without  Benefit  of  Clergy,"  "Young  Gayerson,"  18. 

143.  Yusufzaies,  114. 
"With  Scindia  to  Delhi,"  155, 

156. 

"With  the  Main  Guard,"  98.  Zam-Zammeh,  135. 


[204] 


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